I am preparing to do a bunch of front end work, including power steering. It would be very convenient to stretch a 4x4 across the front end to do the work.
My attempts at search were not productive.
I can't believe it has not been done before, but can't find documentation.
Can one of you wiser and more experienced types show me the way? I suspect I will need to attach a 2x4 on top of the 4x4 to avoid damage to the parts where the beam passes. Not quite as simple as just putting a 4x4 across the jacking points in the rear.
Jack up the front using a floor jack on the front cross member and use two strong jack stands to support the car. Lifting using wood might work but its risky and the pros never go that route.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
The smart ass part of me says "How are you going to get a big honking truck like a Blazer or a Bronco under a Fiero?" (You said "4x4" ...
That said, I see where you're going with this. Short of any actual engineering analysis, I also say a 6x6 would be better suited. Even a Fiero weighs a bunch, and you want safety margin when you're under the car and banging on wrenches and things.
The one problem I see is that I bet you'd find the damn thing in the way more often than not. I did EPS on my car with jackstands under the control arms as far out as they would go. The car was safe and stable, and I had enough room to get to the steering rack and such. You start putting great bloody pieces of lumber across there and I don't think you'd be able to access the parts you needed to.
IOW, the only really good jack points up front are across the axle line, which is where you'll be working.
My .02, which in the current economy is worth both diddly and squat.
Does anyone see a problem with placing the support beam across the forward (just aft of the front tires) yellow rectangles labelled Frame/Body Contact Hoist?
With the rear tires on hydraulic ramps (seen here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hy...2057872.m2749.l2649) and the front beam supported at the ends on jackstands, it looks like it ought to be both stable and less in the way than anything else I can visualize.
Thanks for all the advice and concern, BTW. But last chance for more suggestions before I risk life and limb tomorrow (weather permitting, of course!)
Larry
[This message has been edited by imacflier (edited 07-23-2020).]
Does anyone see a problem with placing the support beam across the forward (just aft of the front tires) yellow rectangles labelled Frame/Body Contact Hoist?
Looks fine.
quote
Originally posted by imacflier: But last chance for more suggestions before I risk life and limb tomorrow
OK, since it looks as if you have the skills and data for analysis: what about using RMP Hot Rolled Steel Channel, 2 Inch Width x 1 Inch Leg Length, 1/8 Inch Thickness (3/16 inch Thickness is also available). It would sure cut down on the bulk....and since I have rain for a few days....
Does anyone see a problem with placing the support beam across the forward (just aft of the front tires) yellow rectangles labelled Frame/Body Contact Hoist?
I have always put jackstands in those locations and the car is not going anywhere. A 4x4 would be redundant.
As for the picture of the railroad trestle, yes they sometimes use wood but those are specially cut 12 x 15 beams. At professional shops you never see wood used to support a car? The OP is free to do it his way but I would recommend going with what the pros use....steel.
As for the picture of the railroad trestle, yes they sometimes use wood but those are specially cut 12 x 15 beams. At professional shops you never see wood used to support a car? The OP is free to do it his way but I would recommend going with what the pros use....steel.
Professional auto repair shops are in the business of repairing many different cars... hence they drop the cash on an off-the-shelf lift, because they don't want to waste time figuring out how to lift cars.
The Saturday mechanic at home has more time than money, and maybe just one car to lift, so the solution space is different.
The smart ass part of me says "How are you going to get a big honking truck like a Blazer or a Bronco under a Fiero?" (You said "4x4" ...
-- A
I read your line and thought of......
I just find convenient places to use my (Safe) jack stands....wider is better.....I usually lower it till it is on them (But the jack is still close) and then grab the car and pull/push on it to test solidity before sliding under- Mainly afraid if it fell that my hard head would damage my car!
[This message has been edited by cvxjet (edited 07-24-2020).]
OK, since it looks as if you have the skills and data for analysis: what about using RMP Hot Rolled Steel Channel, 2 Inch Width x 1 Inch Leg Length, 1/8 Inch Thickness (3/16 inch Thickness is also available). It would sure cut down on the bulk....and since I have rain for a few days....
TIA,
Larry
I guess you want to put the widest flat face against the bottom of the car? Too small... what else do you have laying around? Square tubes maybe?
Since my tech training all lies in aerospace electronics and nuclear power, I absolutely do not know know diddly about statics....I seem to recall that is the term....but mebbe not!
And I absolutely do not intend to challenge or offend you (a lesson learned the hard way as a program manager dealing with my project engineer).
Still, it is counter-intuitive that a 4x4 beam which has been demonstrated to sufficiently support the heavy end of the car is insufficient for the light end!
So, lets start again: it is clear you understand what I want to do. What size/shape of structural steel (still seeking compactness!) would you recommend that I use? I am gonna have to buy it anyway, so I would druther buy the right stuff!
Usually the 4x4 in the rear is touching the floorpan for most of its length, with the spaceframe directly above the jack's lifting pad. In this case, the supports are off to the sides, and not directly underneath the spaceframe. Therefore, I feel that the two situations are not comparable, so we cannot use our experience with one situation and apply it here. Also I am a bit conservative with my suggestions because I do not want to be responsible for giving a bad recommendation resulting in death/injury.
I will look into the suggestion for a steel piece tomorrow. It is not the kind of exercise I want to screw up doing late at night.