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how do I use a 4x4 to support the front end?? by imacflier
Started on: 07-23-2020 02:09 PM
Replies: 19 (353 views)
Last post by: imacflier on 07-26-2020 08:38 PM
imacflier
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Report this Post07-23-2020 02:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for imacflierSend a Private Message to imacflierEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Good afternoon, All,

I am preparing to do a bunch of front end work, including power steering. It would be very convenient to stretch a 4x4 across the front end to do the work.

My attempts at search were not productive.

I can't believe it has not been done before, but can't find documentation.

Can one of you wiser and more experienced types show me the way? I suspect I will need to attach a 2x4 on top of the 4x4 to avoid damage to the parts where the beam passes. Not quite as simple as just putting a 4x4 across the jacking points in the rear.

Y'All have never failed me yet!

TIA,

Larry
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Report this Post07-23-2020 03:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Jack up the front using a floor jack on the front cross member and use two strong jack stands to support the car. Lifting using wood might work but its risky and the pros never go that route.

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Report this Post07-23-2020 05:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for imacflierSend a Private Message to imacflierEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Dennis,

Thank you, but my interest is supporting the front with a wider, more stable base....jackstands at the ends of the 4x4, Not lifting with it.

Larry
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pmbrunelle
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Report this Post07-23-2020 07:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post




 
quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:
Lifting using wood might work but its risky and the pros never go that route.


Wood is risky now?

********************************************************************************

I've never actually removed a front crossmember from a Fiero, so I want to see what's the best way to do it.

Depending on how much span you are expecting between the jackstands, if the span is too much you may overstress the beam.

6x6 would be more conservative.
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dremu
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Report this Post07-23-2020 08:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dremuSend a Private Message to dremuEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The smart ass part of me says "How are you going to get a big honking truck like a Blazer or a Bronco under a Fiero?" (You said "4x4" ...

That said, I see where you're going with this. Short of any actual engineering analysis, I also say a 6x6 would be better suited. Even a Fiero weighs a bunch, and you want safety margin when you're under the car and banging on wrenches and things.

The one problem I see is that I bet you'd find the damn thing in the way more often than not. I did EPS on my car with jackstands under the control arms as far out as they would go. The car was safe and stable, and I had enough room to get to the steering rack and such. You start putting great bloody pieces of lumber across there and I don't think you'd be able to access the parts you needed to.

IOW, the only really good jack points up front are across the axle line, which is where you'll be working.

My .02, which in the current economy is worth both diddly and squat.

-- A
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Report this Post07-23-2020 08:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dremuSend a Private Message to dremuEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

dremu

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quote
Originally posted by pmbrunelle:




Wood is risky now?

********************************************************************************

I've never actually removed a front crossmember from a Fiero, so I want to see what's the best way to do it.

Depending on how much span you are expecting between the jackstands, if the span is too much you may overstress the beam.

6x6 would be more conservative.


Speaking of engineering analysis, I wonder if you didn't actually do some for this. Is that horizontal piece a bunch of 2x4's stacked, or 2x2s?

Also, any particular reason why the A-frame looks like two 2x4s, vs using a single 4x4?

Kinda wish I'd thought of that a while back for some work I was doing ... and wood's cheaper than steel...

-- A
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Report this Post07-23-2020 08:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sourmashSend a Private Message to sourmashEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by pmbrunelle:


Wood is risky now?


There's a joke in there about someone's mother, but I wouldn't stoop to that level.
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imacflier
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Report this Post07-23-2020 09:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for imacflierSend a Private Message to imacflierEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
OK,

Referring to the jacking diagram here: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/136428.html

Does anyone see a problem with placing the support beam across the forward (just aft of the front tires) yellow rectangles labelled Frame/Body Contact Hoist?

With the rear tires on hydraulic ramps (seen here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hy...2057872.m2749.l2649) and the front beam supported at the ends on jackstands, it looks like it ought to be both stable and less in the way than anything else I can visualize.

Thanks for all the advice and concern, BTW. But last chance for more suggestions before I risk life and limb tomorrow (weather permitting, of course!)

Larry

[This message has been edited by imacflier (edited 07-23-2020).]

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Report this Post07-23-2020 10:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by dremu:


Speaking of engineering analysis, I wonder if you didn't actually do some for this. Is that horizontal piece a bunch of 2x4's stacked, or 2x2s?

Also, any particular reason why the A-frame looks like two 2x4s, vs using a single 4x4?

Kinda wish I'd thought of that a while back for some work I was doing ... and wood's cheaper than steel...

-- A


Considering that I entrusted my life to this setup (with zero backups), I did take the time to analyse things where applicable.

The horizontal piece is a stack of six 2x4s glued together.

My stacked mega-beam: section modulus 47.2 in3 (the bigger this is, the stronger it is in bending)
4x4: 7.15 in3
6x6: 27.7 in3

I'm not saying that a 4x4 won't do the job, but it's not remotely in the same league as the solution I selected for myself.

For the A-frames, two 2x4s turned out cheaper than one 4x4, so that's what I did. Also, the thinner lumber was easier to cut with the chop saw.

 
quote
Originally posted by imacflier:
Referring to the jacking diagram here: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/136428.html

Does anyone see a problem with placing the support beam across the forward (just aft of the front tires) yellow rectangles labelled Frame/Body Contact Hoist?


Looks fine.

 
quote
Originally posted by imacflier:
But last chance for more suggestions before I risk life and limb tomorrow


Make sure your will is in order!
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Report this Post07-24-2020 10:06 AM Click Here to See the Profile for imacflierSend a Private Message to imacflierEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
pmbrunelle,

OK, since it looks as if you have the skills and data for analysis: what about using RMP Hot Rolled Steel Channel, 2 Inch Width x 1 Inch Leg Length, 1/8 Inch Thickness (3/16 inch Thickness is also available). It would sure cut down on the bulk....and since I have rain for a few days....

TIA,

Larry
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Report this Post07-24-2020 10:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by imacflier:

Does anyone see a problem with placing the support beam across the forward (just aft of the front tires) yellow rectangles labelled Frame/Body Contact Hoist?



I have always put jackstands in those locations and the car is not going anywhere. A 4x4 would be redundant.


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Report this Post07-24-2020 12:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
As for the picture of the railroad trestle, yes they sometimes use wood but those are specially cut 12 x 15 beams. At professional shops you never see wood used to support a car? The OP is free to do it his way but I would recommend going with what the pros use....steel.
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Report this Post07-24-2020 01:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:

As for the picture of the railroad trestle, yes they sometimes use wood but those are specially cut 12 x 15 beams. At professional shops you never see wood used to support a car? The OP is free to do it his way but I would recommend going with what the pros use....steel.


Professional auto repair shops are in the business of repairing many different cars... hence they drop the cash on an off-the-shelf lift, because they don't want to waste time figuring out how to lift cars.

The Saturday mechanic at home has more time than money, and maybe just one car to lift, so the solution space is different.

********************************************************************************

Larry, to make sure we understand what you want to do, does this diagram accurately represent what you have in mind:

[This message has been edited by pmbrunelle (edited 07-24-2020).]

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imacflier
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Report this Post07-24-2020 02:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for imacflierSend a Private Message to imacflierEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
pmbrunelle

Yes! That is EXACTLY what I intend....with the rear tires on a ramp.

Larry
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Report this Post07-24-2020 02:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cvxjetSend a Private Message to cvxjetEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by dremu:

The smart ass part of me says "How are you going to get a big honking truck like a Blazer or a Bronco under a Fiero?" (You said "4x4" ...

-- A


I read your line and thought of......



I just find convenient places to use my (Safe) jack stands....wider is better.....I usually lower it till it is on them (But the jack is still close) and then grab the car and pull/push on it to test solidity before sliding under- Mainly afraid if it fell that my hard head would damage my car!

[This message has been edited by cvxjet (edited 07-24-2020).]

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pmbrunelle
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Report this Post07-24-2020 03:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by imacflier:

pmbrunelle,

OK, since it looks as if you have the skills and data for analysis: what about using RMP Hot Rolled Steel Channel, 2 Inch Width x 1 Inch Leg Length, 1/8 Inch Thickness (3/16 inch Thickness is also available). It would sure cut down on the bulk....and since I have rain for a few days....

TIA,

Larry


I guess you want to put the widest flat face against the bottom of the car? Too small... what else do you have laying around? Square tubes maybe?
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imacflier
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Report this Post07-24-2020 09:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for imacflierSend a Private Message to imacflierEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
pmbrunelle,

Since my tech training all lies in aerospace electronics and nuclear power, I absolutely do not know know diddly about statics....I seem to recall that is the term....but mebbe not!

And I absolutely do not intend to challenge or offend you (a lesson learned the hard way as a program manager dealing with my project engineer).

Still, it is counter-intuitive that a 4x4 beam which has been demonstrated to sufficiently support the heavy end of the car is insufficient for the light end!

So, lets start again: it is clear you understand what I want to do. What size/shape of structural steel (still seeking compactness!) would you recommend that I use? I am gonna have to buy it anyway, so I would druther buy the right stuff!

Very warm regards,

Larry
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Report this Post07-25-2020 12:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Usually the 4x4 in the rear is touching the floorpan for most of its length, with the spaceframe directly above the jack's lifting pad. In this case, the supports are off to the sides, and not directly underneath the spaceframe. Therefore, I feel that the two situations are not comparable, so we cannot use our experience with one situation and apply it here. Also I am a bit conservative with my suggestions because I do not want to be responsible for giving a bad recommendation resulting in death/injury.

I will look into the suggestion for a steel piece tomorrow. It is not the kind of exercise I want to screw up doing late at night.
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Report this Post07-25-2020 11:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

pmbrunelle

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For steel, I suggest a 4" square tube, 1/4" wall.
Maximum span: 90"

A bit of head-scratching will be required to figure what how the beam should be supported by the jackstand (or other support).

You may need to weld something to the bottom of the beam to make sure it doesn't slip on the jackstand.
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Report this Post07-26-2020 08:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for imacflierSend a Private Message to imacflierEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
pmbrunelle,

Thank you so very much for all the efforts.

Since I will save no bulk, and spend more, by using steel, I will simply give up on using a beam and try and work around my jackstands (sheesh).

Thank you again....and all who contributed,

Warm regards,

Larry
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