Guys, I recently repaired another Fiero headlight motor/gear/actuator assembly. This is the same for 87 and 88 models.

I have done this repair several times over the past decade to various cars and it has held up well! Made a video of the process this time to help anyone that might have a light not going up.

If you are having headlight issues with the motor spinning but the headlight not moving - this may be your fix.

Cheers.

https://youtu.be/ETvJ0kggN30

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84/87 NB, 3800SC, E-85, VS Cam, 2.8 Pulley, 4T65E-HD, HP Tuners, AEM Wideband, Regal GS Gauges, S-10 Brake Booster. 1/4 mile -11.85 at 114mph

Thanks for that, question please, are both motors powered by the same wire in the harness that goes to the front of the car ? If so how do I identify it and where can I tap into it to install a relay to kill power to the motors ?

Here is the thread I did on installing a key-power-relay in the HL main power wire. It is one wire in the front compartment but splits right there. It might actually be better to install the key-power relay back in the engine compartment, by the main power junction block....

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/143215.html

Your headlight fix looks good but I would use the Delrin inserts made especially for the motor rather than the hose pieces that you used. Constant compression of the hose may cause it to wear out but it may last. AFAIK you are the first to try this.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

quote Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua: Your headlight fix looks good but I would use the Delrin inserts made especially for the motor rather than the hose pieces that you used. Constant compression of the hose may cause it to wear out but it may last. AFAIK you are the first to try this.

I did this several years ago with a little smaller diameter hose than I show in the video and it lasted 3 months until the gear assembly would spin and not move the lights.

Then I went to the hose size I show in the video. The ones on my white 3800 SC notchie have been working this way for about 5 years. (they will probably fail today since I said that..)

I agree that the Derlin pucks would be best - but us Fiero guys are a notoriously cheap bunch!!!

Thanks for the comment Dennis and all that you contribute to this forum!!

Dime

[This message has been edited by DimeMachine (edited 07-19-2020).]

Derlin "pucks"/dowels/pins Are Not the "best." Far from it.
See 2nd Gen Headlight Pin Replacement https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/128600.html

Rubber hose "pucks" are not very good but likely won't wreck the gear or output shaft like Delrin and other hard materials.

You Do Not need to remove the motor to remove the gear for Fiero P-side motor w/ output shaft exiting thru removable cover. (D-side on other cars.)
Just careful force it out. Help if you file 3-4 "teeth" in the rim to get back in. Doesn'y even need full teeth. 1-2 near full and 2 maybe half depth just so motor slips over the rim.
Too hot to dig thru old parts. Can see an example in https://www.fiero.nl/forum/F...HTML/128600.html#p15 at top next to rotation arrows. But do it away from from "puck" areas.
Filing the rim is the least of issues and if gears breaks and won't be this is why.

Removing motor often has more problem than just compressing brush springs or dealing w/ BB on the bottom.
Removing or adjusting the "BB End" wrong causes problems too. That bearing and others Hates preloading and will cause failure sooner or later if preloaded or too loose. Wrong lube there can do same.

You can get New Gen2 motors from Cardone and others. Many sold for less $ on Ebay etc but little to no warranty.
New Cardone units in my car is even faster then OE a little bit. Opens HL ~ ⅔ of 1 sec.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 07-19-2020).]

quote New Cardone units

Got a link please

quote Originally posted by theogre: Derlin "pucks"/dowels/pins Are Not the "best." Far from it. See 2nd Gen Headlight Pin Replacement https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/128600.html Rubber hose "pucks" are not very good but likely won't wreck the gear or output shaft like Delrin and other hard materials. You Do Not need to remove the motor to remove the gear for Fiero P-side motor w/ output shaft exiting thru removable cover. (D-side on other cars.) Just careful force it out. Help if you file 3-4 "teeth" in the rim to get back in. Doesn'y even need full teeth. 1-2 near full and 2 maybe half depth just so motor slips over the rim. Too hot to dig thru old parts. Can see an example in https://www.fiero.nl/forum/F...HTML/128600.html#p15 at top next to rotation arrows. But do it away from from "puck" areas. Filing the rim is the least of issues and if gears breaks and won't be this is why. Removing motor often has more problem than just compressing brush springs or dealing w/ BB on the bottom. Removing or adjusting the "BB End" wrong causes problems too. That bearing and others Hates preloading and will cause failure sooner or later if preloaded or too loose. Wrong lube there can do same. You can get New Gen2 motors from Cardone and others. Many sold for less $ on Ebay etc but little to no warranty. New Cardone units in my car is even faster then OE a little bit. Opens HL ~ ⅔ of 1 sec.

Thanks for the additional info on this subject. I have found the gen 2 light system to be pretty darn reliable through the decades - except those crappy pucks.. And they break into literally a million pieces when they go...LOL

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84/87 NB, 3800SC, E-85, VS Cam, 2.8 Pulley, 4T65E-HD, HP Tuners, AEM Wideband, Regal GS Gauges, S-10 Brake Booster. 1/4 mile -11.85 at 114mph