Hey guys Gungan here. (If you know Star Wars that’s where the name came from)

I’ve been a forum reader for a while but never really joined. Was usually able to gather most information when I wanted it as a guest. But today’s the day I joined, that’s because before I’ve never owned a Fiero, until a few months ago. This thread is go to be about what I’ve experienced so far and future plans

This past March, I finally pulled the trigger on buying a Fiero. I fell in love with Fieros in high school after first seeing a white fastback GT, and I didn’t even know what it was back then. I had an itch for a little project, something to tinker on. My buddy found a Fiero for sale about 4 hours south from me. We hopped in my truck the next day with a dolly to check it out. Little did I know it was going to be doing a lot more than “tinkering”

It’s an 86 GT 4 speed Had 147k miles on it. Supposedly sitting for two years, but evidence later on makes me think it was longer, but who knows Didn’t run. Underbody and truck were super clean. Only a small rust hole in the drivers wheel well and in the passenger wheel well as well. Nothing to be worried about. Floor pans clean. (Yes I know there are people who say I towed it wrong. Since it’s a manual don’t have to worry about lack of lubrication, and it handled very well on the 4 hour drive back) Got home, went on eBay and ordered a service manual for it.

(Little did I know that next day at work I was to be temporarily laid off due to COVID)

Took a few days to actually tinker with it but I started with getting it running. I got a cheap battery for it and went to work. Found out I didn’t have spark. Noticed I didn’t have Tach signal while cranking. Perfect that’s where to start, with the ignition system. Ohmed our the coil, perfect. Next onto the pesky ICM and pickup coil. I was 99%sure it was an ICM at this time but wanted to double check because a bad pickup will cause the problem. Took the distributor cap off, boom green goblins in the connector for the pickup coil. Cleaned up the pins and rechecked. Now have tach signal while cranking. Perfect! Little did I know this will bite me in the ass later on. Plugged the coil back in, car fired right up up. OH MAN THAT WAS EASY. This is where the trouble started... I knew the brakes were sketchy. Had a stuck caliper in the front but was able to be freed up. Hopped in it to putz around in, POP there goes a brake line. Ugh okay. Let me try limp it around. Put it in first, Let the clutch out, car only creeps. Rev it up and car doesn’t move any faster, the clutch is smoked on this thing. Aw maaaaan. Found out why the PO parked the car... Now I gotta put a clutch in this thing in my driveway????? Over the next 2.5 months this was my project.

It’s getting late and will continue the story tomorrow[img]https://images.fiero.nl/userimag es/Gunganking/9DDD12CA-F123-4056-9005-D390668C4DBF.jpeg[/img]

[This message has been edited by Gunganking (edited 07-05-2020).]

Welcome to the Forum!

Thanks Gall!

Good luck on the swap and welcome to the forum. As for the 30+ yr old 147K mile transmission, its probably a bit worn; I would go over that and make sure that all of the bearings are tight and in good shape.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

⚠️ Warning: Doing Stuff Like This Can Kill You!



Never use Concrete or Clay bricks/blocks to support any load for working on a car.
That has hurt or kill many people every year but you don't hear/see in "news" 99% of times.

Many things besides concrete can drop a car and without warning.
Worse two feet of stands here are on sides of box section with nothing under. Is a wonder they didn't fracture already.

See my Cave, Safe Jacking and Jacking to Clear Engine

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

You can use wood instead.

Just an FYI, the V6 flywheels prior to 1988 are not neutral balance, the engines prior to 1988 are external balance. Make sure the flywheel you get is from a car prior to 1988 otherwise, vibration problems. Your making great progress!

Thank you for the concerns Dennis and Ogre, I quickly learned that lesson when I got chewed out by multiple people I lowered the vehicle down on just the jack stands positioned on the rear frame rails without bricks to support them, thenused Sourmash’s method when I reinstalled the engine later on.

Mark the flywheel I later installed was from a pre-88 engine, I was wondering why only new 88 flywheels were available but luckily a friend came through with one of his

Is an asphalt surface? seems to be.

Jacks and stands on asphalt can fail too and often doesn't need high heat to weaken it. Asphalt will move some to a lot just from Pressure under jack wheel, stand feet, etc. in hours to days. Many driveways and parking lots have asphalt that's barely holding itself together to start w/ so no-one can guess if your case is better or worse.
So Having car low while working on the cradle is good thing. Set to lowest point as possible. Even then keep kids pets etc. out.

quote Originally posted by sourmash: You can use wood instead.

Many times Wood can have problems too but depends on Many issues. Too many to post easy here.
Is why there are rules for wood cribbing etc.
Wood Doesn't have to be rotten to be weak. More so when have Point Loads like stand feet above and so on.
Worse when dealing w/ plywood etc and outside use because many glues used to make them aren't "water proof."
Don't use MDF, "Chip" Board, and related at anytime.

Oh, I know. There are plenty of dumb people in the world who need someone (anyone) to teach them to proper use of wood.
Don't forget that steel is often problematic as well. Nobody can tell the stresses, tolerances or even failure points. Unless your chosen material has been recently submitted to a qualified lab with peer reviewed, calibrated test equipment that's accepted, UL listed, professionally recognized, taxed and licensed by a regulatory organization, you're just thumbing your nose at safety. Next thing you know there's money missing off the dresser and your daughter's knocked up. I've seen it a hundred times.

OMG...that driveway appears to be on an incline plus everything else everybody else has mentioned. At lease here (see pic) the guy has half a chance of the vehicle rolling away from him or onto him.



Spoon

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"Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut

It’s been a few days but I can finally update the story while I wait for a bunch of 3800sc swap parts to arrive.

As stated before I just replaced the brake lines and installed braided steel hoses. I reinstalled the fuel tank (for the first time at this point) and started to convert the A/C to R-134.

This was actually a relatively easy job. Especially after I figured out how easy the spare tire tub was to remove. Made access to the fitting on the drivers front frame rail much easier. This discovery would have shaved probably an hour and a half off the time it took me to replace the brake lines
Along with replacing the O rings. I did the due diligence of replacing the accumulator because the system was open for so long. While there. I took the blower motor and resistor out to take a gander inside. Wow that was absolutely disgusting and packed with mouse nest. Thank god it got cleaned out.

After that job was completed I changed out the two switches mounted in the compressor. The Fiero Store sells one of the new style switches for $50... I actually did some research on the forum to find the part numbers and was able to find them both for ~$35 shipped to my house! Not bad. Fingerprints Workshop on YouTube has a video of him converting the compressor switches for clarification. I wired the switches up slightly different than him but either way does the job
(I also installed new front radiator hoses during this point that I got from the Fiero Store. I had to shorten the hoses to have them fit)

Now most of my parts arrived to start on the engine. Decided to tackle the most time consuming part, the broken exhaust manifold bolts. I had 2 initially, but one broke upon removal on the rear of the engine. I ordered Rodney Dickman’s Exhaust manifold bolt Jig to help.

Review time:
Rodney’s jig lined up perfect, and the various inserts used in junction with the drill bits worked amazing. Only issues I ran into were with the drill bits and thread tap themselves. I burnt through the two bits not even halfway through the first bolts. BUT I went out and bought more bits the same size and I burnt through them very quick as well. And I tried everything, lube, no lube, more pressure, less pressure, more speed, less speed. I guess I can’t use a drill correctly

As for the tap, which I do know how to use haha, it broke the first hole as well. I replaced with an Irwin tap that I had and had no trouble.
Overall 10/10 recommend Rodney’s jig. Just make sure you know how to drill metal haha


Reinstalled the exhaust manifolds and started with the intake manifold. I removed the upper intake manifold and of course, a lot of the vacuum lines cracked. I replaced those later with Dorman lines later. With the upper intake removed. The coolant lines to the throttle body were deleted, with the inlet and outlets just capped off with rubber caps and hose clamps for now

I proceeded to remove the fuel rail and injectors to clean.
Went the route of deleting the cold start injector, just because of all the problems I’ve heard, and because I didn’t want to wait for a rebuild kit. I plugged the fuel rail with a drain plug of the same thread pitch and plugged the hole on the lower intake with a freeze plug mentioned in another thread I read on here. Later on I made the decision that I was going to reverse that and reinstall the cold start injector. I didn’t like the crank times later on being in the solid 6-7 second range just for the car the sputter the first time it fired after sitting. Once it started, it would fire up quickly.

I removed the fuel rail and injectors, injectors “Appeared fine” at this point in time, and found no traces of rust from the tank accumulated in the rail. That’s great! I still replaced the fuel pressure regulator, and cleaned the injectors in an ultrasonic cleaner. Took care not to completely submerge the injectors to prevent solvent from entering the injectors through the connector face.

Removed the middle intake plenum and replaced the valve cover gasket and PCV grommets. Reinstalled the middle plenum with new gaskets. Installed the fuel rail and injectors

Side note: 5/6 injector retaining clips were destroyed upon removal. I was able to reinstall the injectors without the retaining clips successfully without fuel leaks in the future. So a +1 to saying you don’t “need” them that there were a few discussions on the forum that I read on when my clips were destroyed.

Replaced all of the broken vacuum lines that ran under the intake and replaced the leaking EGR feed tube. And finally reinstalled the upper intake plenum. ( I also replaced the EGR valve stand off due to the feed tube nuts and studs being so rotted away so I got that from the Fiero Store as well)

This point it’s time to install the few little things left.
Replaced the broken alternator bracket, (but kept he same alternator for now) installed new belts for the a/c and alternator. Replaced the spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. Now time for the exhaust

Y Pipe was reinstalled with a New O2 sensor for good measure.
I also bought The Fiero Stores catalytic converter delete pipe due to my Cat being rotted out, and where I live you don’t have to do emissions testing on vehicles build before ‘96. And I gotta say. I either didn’t do enough research but the pipe didn’t fit well. The flange side that connects to the Y pipe is a different size, and didn’t like the stock doughnut gasket. I had to actually shave down the gasket to it to somewhat seal. Also the bends of the pipe didn’t match up well. It took a lot of man handling for it to fit



At this point the engine was ready to be reinstalled into the car!

[This message has been edited by Gunganking (edited 07-05-2020).]

On to the next one!

I got the engine installed pretty quickly. The only headache was the slave cylinder decided to seize while bleeding it. I had to order one but it didn’t stop me from firing it up!

Well. Needless to say she ran...... but not very well. Easing into the throttle helped her rev better, but wasn’t great. At this time it was getting late and would decide to mess with it the next day.

Next day came..... car decided that it didn’t even want to start that day I got really aggravated and let it sit for 2 days. Guess what? It fired right up that day I decided to mess with it again but one thing I did notice, it would die after about 5 minutes of running. Sometimes more. Sometimes less. I didn’t Check that out till later. First I decided to take care of the misfire it had.

I followed the service manual procedure for figuring out misfires. Disconnected the IAC and started unplugging spark plug wires one by one to notice a change. Boom. Found a dead miss on cylinder 4

I started to get worried at this point. Knew I had new plugs and wires, gapped correctly. With strong spark as well. So I ran a compression test on that cylinder to make sure everything was kosher, 135psi dry compression. Well. There’s only three things needed for fireworks Air, Fuel and Spark, so I went with fuel is my culprit. Even though I cleaned the injectors, I had one not working properly. Ordered 6 Bosch injectors off RockAuto for $100 shipped.

Popped in the new injectors, oh man! What a night and day difference! She ran great! When she ran.....

Once again she would start when she wanted. This time I noticed the fuel pump wasn’t turning on with the key.a buddy of mine was helping out with this as well. Checked the fuse, good. Checked for voltage at the test port on the diagnostic connector. Nothing. Applied 12v at the test port, fuel pump fired right up. I have a problem with the control system. Checked for power at the fuel pump relay pump side, 12v. Jumped the two terminals, fuel pump fired up. Okay. Checked power at the ECU side of the relay. 12v huh? Okay if everything has power when it needs to, and the pump works when supplied power, why doesn’t it work? I even Ohmed the relay to make sure it didn’t have excessive resistance when turned on. .5ohms. Swapped relays with the A/C. STILL THE SAME THING THE PUMP WOULD WORK WHEN IT WANTED TO!! I’m aggravated at this point. But managed to catch it in the act. I tugged on the wires at the relay and boom the pump would cycle demon the way the wires were moved, took it apart and found spread pins. Replaced the relay with a new updated style from Autozone and everything on the fuel pump side worked great.

Until she didn’t want to start again.....

[This message has been edited by Gunganking (edited 07-13-2020).]

Any updates?
I will be bringing home a car that supposedly runs, but I have never seen it run, I have known the owner of it for a long time,(10yrs) he has never had it on the road since I have known him, but has moved it a couple times in the last 4-5 years.
I expect to have to deal with probably every issue you are dealing with, plus a new master for brakes(any old, "bin settin a lil while" car) I ever get needs a master, for some reason..
You are getting quite a bit done quickly, I am impressed, I cant seem to move that fast on projects anymore.
Frank

Franked, I have plenty of updates coming. Currently spacing out the story right now. Pretty much recapping what has happed up until the point I am at now (which is currently waiting for my 3800 swap parts to arrive)

The paint finish just looks like the clear is peeled off.. with some labor, can you buff it down to base and re-clear it?

Nice work so far! Those ex man bolts are a pain.

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84/87 NB, 3800SC, E-85, VS Cam, 2.8 Pulley, 4T65E-HD, HP Tuners, AEM Wideband, Regal GS Gauges, S-10 Brake Booster. 1/4 mile -11.85 at 114mph

[This message has been edited by DimeMachine (edited 07-12-2020).]

quote Originally posted by DimeMachine: Nice work so far! Those ex man bolts are a pain.

Thanks!

quote Originally posted by Gunganking: Finally took her on the voyage to test out the brakes and everything else to the local Harbor Freight.

That must be the Lombard Harbor Freight! We used to go to that pizza place sometimes before they closed...

After the maiden voyage. I brought her back home. Noticed another issue. With all the lights on and cooling fans. The alternator was only putting out maybe 12v, I didn’t feel comfortable with that. So I ordered an 88 Fiero alternator and connector pigtail to convert.

While waiting for the alternator to come in, I went to another friends shop to charge the A/C. Performed a vacuum leak test to verify I didn’t leave any fittings loose, or any leaked were present. Charged it with 2? Lbs of refrigerant. Think the spec for converting R12 to R-134 is 10% less than R12 charge. I can’t remember. But charged it and it performs pretty well. It won’t chill you out of the car but it definitely cools.

On the way back I tested the dashboard cup holder by stopping at the local Portillo’s



I waited about a week for the new alternator from RockAuto. Turns out the box was dropped at some point and I open it to this surprise

Me being impatient I just sent that alternator back and went to O’Reillys and grabbed an expensive one from there.

Next to drop the fuel tank again to fix the sending unit for my gauge to work. This time it was super easy to drop. Now I know what I’m doing.



While the unit was still installed. Verified resistance through the connector that correlated with the gauge reading. So I removed the sending unit.

I also didn’t know this at this point. But I noticed a mistake I made while adjusting the sending unit rod, The fuel hose I installed in place of the pulsator was deformed. I didn’t know this at this time but there’s a difference between EFI fuel hose and submersible fuel line. That’ll get replaced with the right stuff when I replace the pump yet again for the 3800.

I reinstalled the sending unit (with about a half a tank of fuel to help test to see if the float is stuck) checked the resistance through the connector. Showed ~56 ohms. Perfect the float isn’t stuck anymore. Reinstalled the tank and checked the gauge. Gauge now works!

I replaced the alternator and changed out the pigtail. Started the car up and voltage was now perfect and steady at 13.5v. Would dip down for a second while loads are applied, but would stabilize back at 13.5v. Now I’m confident I can really take this thing for a drive.

Went to the local gas station. Filled up. And started on the last drive I’d take with her. Which was only to verify the fuel gauge was accurate.

Everything started out great. Even though the tires are shot, and the front bushings and shocks need replaced. She cruised really well for what it is at 60mph. I made it about 10 miles away and I started to hear a metallic spinning noise at lower RPM. Like the alternator fan contacting the case haha. But I kept driving anyway. I made it to one of my favorite photo spots and took a few pics
[img]https://images.fiero.nl/userimages/Gunga nking/8BBD40DC-D700-41A3-92E8-CB6271A3DA82.jpeg[/img]

Verified that the noise was in face the alternator fan hitting the case and determined that it was probably time to head home. And order another alternator, but that was the least of my worries. The battery light would flicker on the start of the journey back home....

I was about 20 miles from home when the worst happened.....

Came to a stop and heard the knock. Saw the oil light come on....
No no no I just did all this work and this it how it’s going to be

I managed to limp the car home, without chucking the rod through the block. I drained the oil and pulled the pan. Found #4 rod bearing completely shot


At this point I’m just trying to save the car and drive short distance.
I was actually able to polish the crank up “enough” to accept an new bearing. Call me a hack, but it was never going to be a permanent repair anyway. Just enough to get by and be a to limp it whenever I need it. Like around the driveway of the parents, and to the new home I’ll be moving to a few miles away it’ll be at in a few months. Nothing really more. I ordered a set off RockAuto for $10 and prayed. . But it never got that far. I received the new bearings and with the rod installed there was way too much play in the rod that it would be no better than it was before. The car fought me every minute until the very end and won. Only was able to put 147 miles on her


This is what started the 3800sc swap.
Now that everyone Is up to speed, updates my not be as common. I still have some details to come but currently not much
since they’ll be in real time.

I have had Fieros for 30 years. I have seen more rod bearings fail on the 2.8 than any engine I am aware of and I am not even trying to keep track.

Does anyone know why the 2.8 V6 loves to dine on rod bearings?

Anyway, good call doing the 3800 swap. I couldn't agree more. FUN, not to hard to install, BULLET PROOF etc.

https://youtu.be/NacB47T21OA

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84/87 NB, 3800SC, E-85, VS Cam, 2.8 Pulley, 4T65E-HD, HP Tuners, AEM Wideband, Regal GS Gauges, S-10 Brake Booster. 1/4 mile -11.85 at 114mph

quote Originally posted by DimeMachine: I have had Fieros for 30 years. I have seen more rod bearings fail on the 2.8 than any engine I am aware of and I am not even trying to keep track. Does anyone know why the 2.8 V6 loves to dine on rod bearings? Anyway, good call doing the 3800 swap. I couldn't agree more. FUN, not to hard to install, BULLET PROOF etc. https://youtu.be/NacB47T21OA Is that your Fiero? I just stumbled across that video the other day! Thing scoots, I like it! I was on the edge of doing an LS4 or a 3800. Chose the 3800 because of how cheap the swap is

quote Originally posted by Gunganking:

It is. Built several years back with help from this forum!

Back again with a slight update.

I’m waiting on FieroRog’s mounts and flywheel to arrive so I figured I’d start on the wiring.

Pulled the old wiring harness out of the Fiero. Had to chop a few sections to get it all out but since I’m not using most of it, it wouldn’t hurt.

Previously I decided that I was going to lay both harnesses out on an old model train table I have. Original plan was to compare wire routing, copy the routing of the original Fiero harness, and where to extend wiring to be able to use the new ECM in the stock location. Also the plan was to be able to do all the wiring inside because it’s now hot outside.

Laid out the Fiero harness. Securing the harness to the table with thumb tacks


Here are both harnesses on the table. 3800 harness is not secured



After laying them out and realizing that my “jig” I have may/may not work (I may get confused or mid place some wires with the whole loom off the engine)

I’m thinking I may have to keep the harness on the engine while I do my trimming and routing. Just so I can be satisfied with the cleanliness of everything. Going to have to ponder some thoughts on how to approach it.

Hey guys back again, got to be starting off and on. With the project again. Life once again has gotten in the way but maybe I can get some things done. I received FieroRog’s engine engine mount/alternator bracket/ dog bone bracket and flywheel in the mail the other day. I’ve opened the box but haven’t taken any pictures, but everything looks mint. Very well made.

Before I start tearing down the engine for gaskets and the supercharger swap to the Gen 5 charger I have, I’m going to get the wiring as complete as possible. I decided to put the wiring back on the engine and simply remove circuit by circuit what I don’t need for now.

I have started the process already. And I’m using the connector Pin outs provided by the Gmtuners website

Now you guys might be wondering why I’m using the 1998-2002 wiring pin outs for my 04 engine harness and ECU. That is because I ended up using and ECM from Fast Fieros out of a 1998 Bonneville due to tuning incapability.

I took both of the wiring pin outs from the 98-02 and 03+, put them side by side and compared. Luckily the only difference really was the amount of transmission wiring. And since I’m keeping the stock 4 speed, that’s all getting deleted anyway.
(Also I talked with a man named James Brown on Facebook who builds these harnesses for advice on the matter a few weeks prior. He also stated the same. Also another very helpful and pleasurable person to talk to)

So as I went though the list. I started cutting each wire at the ECU blue and clear connectors. Just so I can start clearing wires out of the way.


I do realize that the wire and pin are still located in the connector. Those will be removed and the hole sealed off at a later time near harness completion

as fast as the work goes today this is where I’m at. It really is an organized mess, along with the wires I’ve removed so far. Mainly transmission control

if you plan to use the auto trans with that 04 motor, you better start the harness over. you need to run it as a 03. Check w/ Ryan at GMTuners b/c my 04 is using a 03 ECM b/c of the trans. My understanding is that the Gen III trans has to have the 03+ ECM to operate the electronics. IF going w/ a manual then never mind.

Rob

Well guys I’m finally able to update my post. Life definitely got in the way. In the middle of the project I had to focus on moving which definitely put a hold on things.

BUT, I had the goal of being able to drive the Fiero to the new place about 10 miles away, and spoiler, I was able to 😉

Just a forewarning. I took the David Freiburger approach “Don’t get it right, just get it running” due to cost and time constraints

Last post the wiring was being made. I wanted to tackle this myself for the personal challenge. As a Diesel tech by day. And my electric knowledge kinda iffy, I wanted to build my skill set that not only would help here, but also work in my day to day job and I’ll be honest it helps a lot

One of the challenges was mounting the ignition coils. Me being stubborn, I wanted to have a stock look, and the common coil relocation places didn’t look appealing to me. I found a location that I really enjoyed.

I found that from Brianlloyd.com and his builds.

I thought it was perfect. I didn’t have to spend ungodly amounts on custom length spark plug wires and since I deleted the EGR, the bolt holes there were no longer used. I went to the junkyard and pulled that style coil mount from an N/A 3800. Then i learned that it would not fit.

The exhaust crossover and header flange was in the way. I decided that the way to keep it was to actually raise the coil up just enough to clear with a bracket.

I took a pieced steel plate (previously as a friends dump bed on his semi) with some elementary engineering skills, traced the two mount holes with the old EGR valve bracket



I am unable to use the third bolt hole closest to the exhaust manifold, due to the EGR blockoff plate blocking the hole. So I just made sure to include an indent to clear the plate.

With that I traced the two mounting holes for the ICM ~1.5” higher than they were to effectively “lift” the coil the needed height


The final picture are with the coil mounted in place


Keep in mind the bolts that bolt the coil to the plate also had to clear the valve cover. I installed the bolt head toward the valve cover to have a cleaner less garbage lookin look.

The thread is not dead! It's been a while but trust me there has been great progress. time to update y'all up to the current status of the car and update future plans.
Just to let y'all know the car IS up and running and running very well.
I apologize in advance for some photo uploads, they appear to be taken by a potato, but they are screenshots of videos that I took.
Where the post was left off was with the coil pack mounting. After that was completed, i started with resealing the engine. I noticed a large oil leak coming from the top of the engine, I suspected valve cover gaskets.



hard to see in that picture, but when I relocated the alternator, I found that the mounting bolts were swapped around for the original alternator mount, and one of the bolts punched a hole right through the valve cover. Looks like i found the main culprit of the oil leak.
I ordered a rear valve cover for it.
With the valve covers off, nothing looked out of the ordinary. So i continued to replace the rear valve cover , gasket and the front valve cover gasket.
I had already swapped over to the Gen 5 M90 and lower intake that was acquired at the same time that the engine was, so the lower intake gaskets, S/C base gaskets were also replaced The coolant outlet for the heater core was tapped (incorrectly and i did not realize this till later, I also forgot to to tap and seal the throttle body coolant ports in the LIM. This will be resolved later.
I then moved on to the oil pan gasket, and that is when I realized why the owner of the Monte Carlo donor junked the car.



It indeed was most likely due to the lower intake gaskets failing, which caused the coolant/oil mix, but it would worry me that it might be a failed head gasket. I made the executive decision to just clean everything really well and send it.

Proceeding the engine reseal, i was finally able to mate the engine and transmission, I kept the factory 4 speed, and used Fiero Rog flywheel and a Spec stage 2+ clutch



Wanting everything ready for when the engine is installed, I created the A/C lines needed to keep the factory A/C. Cutting off the original Fiero A/C compressor ends, and crimping on the new A/C compressor ends, as well as installing the pressure transducer port in line, ( I know it isn't crimped the "proper way" but it should hold)



Now onto the fun part. INSTALLATION OF THE ENGINE!!!
I placed the engine and wiring harness on the cradle and slapped it right in.



No but seriously, it was not that bad to place into the car since I already had the original 2.8 out and in, and back out already, the car was already ready to have everything reinstalled.
For the meantime, I had the ECU not inside the cab, so I can test run it and finalize my wire routing.
For coolant hoses, I used part numbers located on different build threads. also a WCF modified thermostat housing to keep the fill location in the back of the car for ease of bleeding.
For fuel lines, I had a WCF Nylon fuel line kit, but I did not use the supplied 90* quick connect fittings, but used the OEM quick connect fittings from the donor car.

After double, and triple checking everything, it was time to have the first start!
In all honesty, it went way smoother than expected. It literally fired right up with no issues and ran phenomenal. Was able to bring it up to operating temp, watched the cooling fans come on when needed without a hitch. Complete success i would say for a first startup.
Side note: I have not fabricated the exhaust yet, so it was running open header for now.

I WAS FREAKING ECSTATIC.

Now i know it was not over yet, its time to find all the little gremlins still lurking around that need to be addressed.

I took it on its first test drive and it died a block away from the house
Turns out I forgot to increase the size of the two fuel injection fuses that was supposed to be done. Oops
Replaced the fuses and proceeded to test drive #2. OH MAN
I knew i was supposed to probably go easy on my first test drive, but I Couldn't help myself so see what kind of power this thing had, and boy i was INSTANTLY hooked.
With the old dry rotted tires, it wouldn't hesitate to break loose the tires in first. instant tire BBQ, and the S/C whine with it just made me giggle like a little girl.

After a few other test drives, I started for find a few more gremlins. mainly coolant leaks. One at the fitting I tapped into the LIM)
the other was from the modified thermostat housing. at temp, and if i gave it WOT, it would puke coolant out of the thermostat cap. One time right in front of my friend's house, waterproofing the road.
Found out once the thermostat housing ages/rusts, it gets weak, and the retaining tabs for the cap bend, once i found that out and looked closely, i saw the whole top of the housing looking like an oval instead of circular. I ended up putting the origional thermostat housing off the 3800 back on.

How I bleed the cooling system now, is I lift the right front of the car as high as possible, to bring the radiator cap up front to the highest point in the cooling system, then crack the bleeder on top of the thermostat housing till all the air is out there and let it run at operating temp for a while, constantly topping off the radiator.
The LIM leak will be taken care of later.

Exhaust is now a crucial part needed now. I went ahead and ordered some tight radius 90* 3" piping, a 1-2 muffler from Summit, and a exhaust flange from ZZP. Then went on to practice my welding



The setup came out alright, but I ended up re-engineering a different setup later.

Once that was complete, it was off to the new home. since I ended up moving in the middle of all this. Guess what, another gremlin showed up on the way to the new place, a still inaccurate fuel gauge. Ran out of fuel not even a mile away from the old house while it showed a half tank. But made it none the less.



Now to fix all of the little things. First and foremost that LIM coolant leak. Upon further inspection, I found that the LIM was cracked at the hole I tapped threads for the coolant hose elbow, this was because i tried running the tap in without drilling the hole to the proper size previously, which was my mistake I forgot that part. Luckily for me I still had the Gen 3 LIM. Reading up I found the Gen 3 LIM can work with the Gen 5 Blower with a few modifications. I cut the opening of the manifold to the proper size, Tapped the two coolant passages to the Throttle body and plugged them, then properly drilled out the coolant passage for the heater hose fitting and tapped.



While the blower and LIM were off, I proceeded to fix other things that needed addressed. I rerouted and cleaned up the wiring harness, Put the ECM inside the car under the center console. I also flipped the fuel rail, so the fuel lines would not wrap around the engine, this gave it a cleaner look, and also no risk of the lines contacting the belts. with this i had to remake the lines, like 4 times to get it right.

Once everything was put back together, everything seemed fine untillll i took it for a test drive, This was the start of chasing a misfire for literally 2 months off and on.
it was aggravating because the ECM would not log which cylinders were misfiring, And when I was a tech for ford, I used to be able to view live misfires with a power balance test on their scan tool, with this I had none of that but hand held scanner.
I reached out to James Brown on Facebook and he told me to check the crank/cam position sensor harness. where I did find a problem



I do recommend talking to him for any electrical issues you may have, real great guy to take time out of his day to help.

I repaired that but it ended up not being the problem. but its good to check because that would have caused issues down the road.
long story short, i had two bad coils, one in the original set. and one in the set I got with the other Coil pack mount.

NOW FOR THE SUSPENSION REBUILD



And when I mean rebuild, I mean rebuild.
Front suspension:
Poly upper and lower control arm bushings
Upper "more adjustable" ball joints, Rodneys 1/2" drop lower ball joints
Inner and outer tie rod ends
Upgraded sway bar with poly sway bar links
New steering dampeners (Rodneys dual dampener kit)
Cut one coil out of the front springs to lower
All new Hardware

While there, I made an oops. I had to cut one of the bolts on the passenger side control arm, and I clipped the coolant tube with the cutting wheel

I cut the tube all the way, slid a piece of radiator hose over both ends and secured with clamps. currently looking for a passenger side coolant tube but I'm also not in a rush
also ran into a snag with one of the outer tie rod ends, It was made with no threads


Rear Suspension:
Wheel bearings, Outer tie rod ends with Rodneys HD inner tie rods
New CV axles
FieroGuru coil overs with 300 springs
Fiero Store add on Rear sway bar with their links
Poly bushings were previously installed

Here is the stance it had with the stock wheels


Time for an alignment and new wheels





I cant remember the exact wheel specs , but they are 17" Avid AV06s
Went with a wheel size based on the wheel size fitment chart I found on this forum.

All and all the car drove way better than I expected

There were more "test drives" to come and i found other issues that arose.
one was that the drivers CV axle would pop out of the transmission. i asked around on FB and the engine/trans was positioned correctly. But what i did find was that there are two different length CV axles available off Rockauto. I ordered the shorter one at first. So i ordered the longer one, As well as hub centric rings for the wheels



After installing the new longer axle, I had no more problems with it coming out.

Also after driving it for a while and getting more comfortable with longer drives. I realized I needed to make a few changes
I was not happy with the second hand poly engine mounts, had a lot of vibration, so I ordered Rodneys version of the poly engine and trans mounts


The second thing I had to change was the exhaust setup. I could not stand the drone it had at 40-55MPH
First setup


Second setup i added a flex pipe, and used the Spintech muffler instead


It now also has ZZP high power coils and 10mm wires as well

And with that folks, y'all are up to date with my progress!
It has definitely come a long way, but I have a list of changes and other plans coming up for it over this winter

-Subaru WRX front brakes with Full size Blazer master cylinder (I already have the mounting brackets)
-Rebuild the steering rack, it has a quite a bit of play
-Tweak the alignment, not happy with my Caster angles and the front right wheel rubs on the control arm at full right lock
-Paint calipers
-Front and rear exhaust manifolds (Power Logs from ZZP that I already have to install
-Possibly the new Equalizer pipe from ZZP
-Finish air intake to the fender

-Complete interior overhaul:
*Rebuild doors, regulator, motors, door hinge pins and latch bolts
*New steering wheel
*New carpet and Mr.Mikes Upholstery Seat covers
*Sound deadening all around
*Rebuild stereo system with upgrades
*Fix Headliner and rebuild the sunroof
*New 3D printed center skeleton
*New shift cables
*Misc switches
*Boost gauge and AF ratio gauge

I hope y'all are enjoying following my journey of fixing up this Fiero!
I've really enjoyed driving this thing so far, and I plan on keeping it that way
More updates will continue once i start making progress this winter!

Are you by any chance posting from a phone? The reason I ask is that a lot of your images are being posted on their sides. It might not be as noticeable on a phone, but on a PC monitor they're a little awkward to view.