so i the title said i want to know how to test wiper motor cause my wiper dont work

the fuse is good and when i turn the wiper arm 12v pass trough the fuse
12v goes in the wiper board and seem to pass in the board and on the other side of the board ( the 4 connector + the ground have some volt on the connector )
the litle paper ground of the motor seem also goos i chek with a multimeter

so next step is to test the wiper motor but i dont know where i can put +12 V to test te motor it self
can i put on any of the 4 connector that the wiper board clip on ( with the board remove of the car obviously)

The wiper control board is probably not functioning correctly. Rodney Dickman sells a repair kit that contains most of the parts that commonly fail. If you don't want to repair it, Dorman sells new wiper control board assemblies.

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so there no way to test the motor itself ?

Yes you can test just the motor... Pull cover and board off the motor.

Ground/neg to case.
+ to low or high speed pins where delay board connects to motor.

No Load Amps only applies w/ motor arm not connected to wiper trans etc.

Don't bothers fixing the delay board. Replacing old caps isn't only problem.
Dorman and others sell replacement boards available thru most part stores.

If board is fried... then fix kits won't help and replacing board the new one will often fry too.
start here... See my Cave, Electric Motors
Example: GM Wiper Motor has metal under metal thru rubber. That rubber can wear out, metal "rust" or both killing motor and whatever running it.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

thx first thing tomorow morning ill test that

so the motor works fine and i also test the pulse board and when the plug is connected to the board and i start the wiper at high there is 12 V on the outlet of the board on the pin for the high speed so ... board seem to provide volt to the motor but nothing happen

if i bypass the car connector and connec 12v power straight from the battery to the high pin inlet in the board the wiper start but really slow even at high ...

i dont know what it could be ? could that be the 12v comming from the wiper switch is to weak ?

So motor works.
But can't run same on board w/ 12V from batter to high speed pin...

you tested motor same way?

What volts to you see exactly? and Meter probes connected to what?

Motor draws 7-12 amps, maybe more w/ dry glass or tran binding for any reason on high connected to everything to wipe the glass.
Meter may see "12v" w/ motor off but motor on then any Weak ground(s) or anything else will cause slow/dead motor.

Wires/switches to board could be iffy.
Battery is low or crap wire to it same way. Charge battery should be ~ 12.6-13v and Should see close to same at motor end.
Delay Board can have crap solder joints, traces, etc.

well ended up burning the board lol i plug 12v on high pin on the board connected to the motor and the wiper start moving but really really slow and 0.1 second the board goes in smoke and i burn in the middle so got to buy a new board

for now i plug the high pin of the wiper switch straight in the high pin on the motor and now they work perfecly when i put the switch to high position

Column switch may turn on relay/transistor in turn they run the motor.
If true, Column switch won't last long wired directly to the motor.

Don't trust GM or others showing wire diagram to "prove" wired directly on any board/module.
Your fried board is why might be above setup.

Low speed has a relay on D-board in GM docs. Plus Parking switch also run low speed and that relay.
High speed doesn't say and I don't have a spare board to check for this.

so your telling me to plug in the low pin instead ?

sorry i speak french so sometime i have trouble to understand

No.
Plug the switch into the motor directly for either speed can fry the switch.

The switch is likely not made to handle 5 to 10 amps or more if system has binding or other problems.

Board isn't made to take high amps for problems either. Is Why Replacing fried board cause by other problems will often fry the new board too.
Low volts, Binding, or both are often switch and board killers.

Binding can be:
Iffy motor
Iffy arm pivots
Iffy pivots in the wiper trans
Wipers running on dry glass, frozen in winter, etc.
any combination or all of the above can make the motor to draw more power and cook the board.

but with the board in and all connected nothing move not even a single sound from the motor