The other day I replaced my steering column intermediate shaft with a good one that had no play. Now, when I turn the wheel to the left, I get a noise from the rack. I pulled back the boot on the driver side and saw that the rack gear moves up a little bit when the wheel is turned. I'm not sure if it did this before and I just didn't notice it because of the play in the old shaft, or what.
This is a rack I rebuilt less than a year ago with new bushing, seal, boots, damper and tie rods. The pinion bearings were still good.
I have the preload set kind of tight. I tightened it up a little more to see if I could get that slop out, but it didn't help. I don't want to tighten it too much or it will be hard to steer. I'm not sure if this movement is normal or what. It doesn't seem to affect drivability. Any ideas?
Too tight preload can wreck the rack and pinon. Too loose can do damage or just feel like it if not wreck other parts. DIY "Rebuilt" often missing something shows up now or down the road. lack of grease or using wrong grease can matter.
Worse, inner and/or outer tierod joints could be loose/bad. Either install wrong or hit a pothole. So has new parts a few months ago maybe 1 or several is crap now.
Driving just tightens all steering loads and often hinds rack problems. more so when early stage of problem(s).
Car parked. Try to lock S-damper moving stud so can't move. Take damper off and use wood to hold them is likely easy to make sure won't move. turn S-wheel while looking at pinon. mark as needed to see better. Does pinon move in/out or rotate now? Yes then rack has problems. To double check try same but at both Ends, turn full left and right and lock the stud each time. Often rack wears out in the center and you have play mainly driving straight.
If rack is tight doing that... something else is loose.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
I can check all of those things, but I can see where it is moving. It's like the pinion gear is pushing up on the rack gear when the wheel is turned. If I remember correctly, the only thing holding it down on the driver side is the preload mechanism, is that right? There is no play on center or anywhere else in the rack movement.
Originally posted by PatrickTRoof: I can check all of those things, but I can see where it is moving. It's like the pinion gear is pushing up on the rack gear when the wheel is turned. If I remember correctly, the only thing holding it down on the driver side is the preload mechanism, is that right? There is no play on center or anywhere else in the rack movement.
The "Preload" parts are the backstop pushing the rack into the pinon.
If pinon in moving in/out or sideways on it'd center then pinon bearing(s) have problems. Only rotation to move the rack is normal.
Related question: My alignment is good and straight, suspension components are relatively new with no play, but when driving the car will sort of wander this way and that . It will move with bumps or cracks in the road. Up on jack stands the wheels can be pulled by hand and move slightly either way (both together) without moving the steering wheel. The steering rack has this slight play in it. Is this normal? Do I need to rebuild the rack?
Related question: My alignment is good and straight, suspension components are relatively new with no play, but when driving the car will sort of wander this way and that . It will move with bumps or cracks in the road. Up on jack stands the wheels can be pulled by hand and move slightly either way (both together) without moving the steering wheel. The steering rack has this slight play in it. Is this normal? Do I need to rebuild the rack?
You might want to try adjusting the rack preload while on jack stands first. Don't overdo it.
Take the time to remove the spare tire tub. It makes things A LOT easier.
Originally posted by liv4God: Related question: My alignment is good and straight, suspension components are relatively new with no play, but when driving the car will sort of wander this way and that . It will move with bumps or cracks in the road. Up on jack stands the wheels can be pulled by hand and move slightly either way (both together) without moving the steering wheel. The steering rack has this slight play in it. Is this normal? Do I need to rebuild the rack?
The alignment of any car can be perfect on alignment machine and still wonder/pull for various reason including tires or even the road and what lane use can cause it.
Example: Most Roads have "crowns" or tilted so rain drains. Multi lane road has lanes that can push a car to left, right or none. That's before road wear and often have every small ruts that doesn't play well w/ all cars. Some bridges w/ metal surface like many Draw Bridges have can similar problems. Bridge deck + tires + vehicle all matter either car tracks straight or gets very weird.
Having iffy rack and/or S-column make any source far worse problem.
Could try adjusting as above but don't hold your breath is going to work now or in near future. Preload buffer need right lube to do the job w/o wearing it and the rack fast.
I have an update: The other night I went out to my car after work and tightened the preload on the rack according to spec, and it's much better! There's no more noise or movement in the steering rack. All this time I was afraid I had it too tight, when it actually had quite a bit of adjustment left before it was in spec. Thank you for posting the image with the correct adjustment procedure!
There does seem to be the tiniest bit of play in the steering column now, probably the tilt ball, but it's not worth tearing it apart to fix it at this point. There is no wobble in the column or any of the other common column issues.
Tomorrow I'm taking it for an alignment and I can't wait to drive it with everything finally tight!
This looks like a good place to start! Two questions: What is the function of the preload? Edit >> answered by theogre above "The "Preload" parts are the backstop pushing the rack into the pinon." <<
And how do you guys measure 2nm torque? Most torque wrenches don't have accuracy that low. I think mine starts at 5 ft lbs.
Thanks
[This message has been edited by liv4God (edited 02-02-2020).]
And how do you guys measure 2nm torque? Most torque wrenches don't have accuracy that low. I think mine starts at 5 ft lbs.
Do you have the rack already out of the car? Can't measure that otherwise. If not, you can still try step 2 first and see if that makes any difference.
2. Turn adjuster plug clockwise until it bottoms, then back off 60 degrees.
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 02-05-2020).]
