I picked up an 88GT from the Las Vegas Fiero Club a few years ago. I figured that I would start a resto thread since I am going to paint it. Here goes.
This how it looks right now.
I have done a lot of work to it since I got. ------------------ Project Genisis Lo Budget 3800SC swap 12.840@104.8 MPH Intense-Racing 1.9 rockers, 3" exhaust, 3.4 pulley, ZZP tune and 18 year old tires.
The engine was built by Rich at the LV Fiero club. It's bored .030 over and stroked with a Chevy S10 crank shaft. So it's a 3.1L and it is noticeable. I have a 4T60 to put in it eventually.
I also have some 1.6 rockers to put in it from a 1994 Pontiac Grand Am.
------------------ Project Genisis Lo Budget 3800SC swap 12.840@104.8 MPH Intense-Racing 1.9 rockers, 3" exhaust, 3.4 pulley, ZZP tune and 18 year old tires.
Thanks guys. I have to redo it though, I just noticed TFS has new visors and they do say all 87s and 88s were either dark grey or dark saddle for the headliners. I'll have to get some visors too I guess.
If you want to see expensive, try buying that in our Crapifornia "VOC compliant" formula. That's why I try the best I can to buy HOK from a private vendor out of state.
[This message has been edited by IMSA GT (edited 02-25-2020).]
I haven't done much with this car except drive it in the summertime. I think im ready to start restoring it though, the paint is rough and the sunroof leaks. But there's absolutely no rust on it and the R12 freon will freeze you out.
Just wanted to bump this thread. I still have the car. I have been driving it in the summers and really haven't wanted to paint it yet so I can drive it. The car runs great, the motor has been bored and stroked by the Las Vegas Fiero Club. The block is from a 2.8L Chevy S10. The reason for this is the crank has a longer stroke so more torque. The block was bored .030 over with a healthy cam. Any one who knows Fieros and drives it always make a comment about how it good feels to drive. There is absolutely no rust underneath and the R12 freon blows super cold. I quit driving it so much this year to preserve the car. So, therefore I am open to the direction of the future of the car. I have the HOK BrandyWine and Solar Gold for a base coat. The car is not painted yet. I also have a low mileage L67 and 4T65EHD with a 98 GTP harness and computer. Not sure what I want to do now.
------------------ Project Genisis Lo Budget 3800SC swap SOLD 12.840@104.8 MPH Intense-Racing 1.9 rockers, 3" exhaust, 3.4 pulley, ZZP tune and 18 year old tires.
I did buy an industrial walker foot sewing machine so I can do upholstery. I am also doing a 1966 AMC Rambler full restoration. So I figured I will start practicing on the Fiero. I have decided The car (Fiero) will be for sale, I have some prep things I want to do first to pretty it up. It's a rock solid car, just ugly as hell. So here is the start.
The color of the 88 Fiero headliner is supposed to be medium Beech wood I believe. they're all different so please correct me if i'm wrong. I didn't know this when I did the head liner that is why is the wrong color. The color I used was from Jo Anne fabrics and its a tan color. The old visors pretty much match the new material I mentioned a few posts back. Medium Beech wood.
[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 01-04-2024).]
And so it begins. Body panels need to be replaced because this car came from the desert and is black. Also the car has been painted in the past with some sort of single stage enamel paint. They are all warped pretty bad. I have already replaced the front bumper cover, driver side door skin, and front hood. I have the passenger side door skin, rear clip, and rear bumper cover. All of my replacement panels have OEM paint on them at least. The fenders, lower quarter panels, and rear deck lid are all salvageable.
One of the threaded studs spun out, I had to cut he skin off.
One of the threaded studs spun out, I had to cut he skin off.
We had this exact same problem on my daughter's 85 Fiero, and even on the same stud as well. I was able to cut it off using a sawsall, and then miraculously, I was able to re-weld the same stud I'd cut off, using my mig-welder, and then epoxied the base of it on the fiberglass so it wouldn't spin. We were able to get it all back together like new without having to cut.
And so it begins. Body panels need to be replaced because this car came from the desert and is black. Also the car has been painted in the past with some sort of single stage enamel paint. They are all warped pretty bad. I have already replaced the front bumper cover, driver side door skin, and front hood. I have the passenger side door skin, rear clip, and rear bumper cover. All of my replacement panels have OEM paint on them at least. The fenders, lower quarter panels, and rear deck lid are all salvageable.
One of the threaded studs spun out, I had to cut he skin off.
lucky for you it's not difficult to repair that panel afterwards. lots of chamfering on both parts and getting that cut out center peice sanded much shorter to them use a fiberglass epoxy or a specific boat resin and standard fiberglass sheets to make it strong before sanding it down and using gold filler then icing and spot filler before filler primer
You don't have to cut the skin off for that spinning stud. There is a retainer in there that keeps the bolt shoulder (square) held against the skin to prevent the stud from moving up and coming loose. You just need to apply some force on the skin upward to keep the stud down as you remove the nut.
I found my retainer sitting on the roof of the car rusted out. Replaced it before putting the clip back on.
[This message has been edited by Matthew_Fiero (edited 09-18-2024).]
lucky for you it's not difficult to repair that panel afterwards. lots of chamfering on both parts and getting that cut out center peice sanded much shorter to them use a fiberglass epoxy or a specific boat resin and standard fiberglass sheets to make it strong before sanding it down and using gold filler then icing and spot filler before filler primer
quote
Originally posted by Matthew_Fiero:
You don't have to cut the skin off for that spinning stud. There is a retainer in there that keeps the bolt shoulder (square) held against the skin to prevent the stud from moving up and coming loose. You just need to apply some force on the skin upward to keep the stud down as you remove the nut.
I found my retainer sitting on the roof of the car rusted out. Replaced it before putting the clip back on.
Thanks guys. I wasn't planning to save that skin anyhow. It was cracked and sunstroke rotting. I did try to save it, in one of the pics there is a crowbar under the skin in one of the pics. The rear clip has been replaced before and not very well at that. It was garbage to begin with.
Heres my replacements. They are from northern Illinois here so they are very straight. The rear clip I got from Paul Vargyas when he moved.
I took the last few days off to start painting the car, but I did find a bit of rust. I had to repair it before I could move on. For a desert car this isn't to bad.
