I finally got a larger radiator into my fiero. Took a lot of messing around, it was larger then I thought it would be. I was on the last transmission line, super happy. Started screwing it in, pop. Threads are gone. I think they call it a bung? Not sure. Aluminum sure is soft...
Anyway I can't get the last line in. It is just sitting there, taunting me. Any suggestions that does not involve me buying another new radiator? Any type of shops that could fix this? Maybe a Helicoil?
I finally got a larger radiator into my fiero. Took a lot of messing around, it was larger then I thought it would be. I was on the last transmission line, super happy. Started screwing it in, pop. Threads are gone. I think they call it a bung? Not sure. Aluminum sure is soft...
Anyway I can't get the last line in. It is just sitting there, taunting me. Any suggestions that does not involve me buying another new radiator? Any type of shops that could fix this? Maybe a Helicoil?
Hard to fix those as I believe that its a 3/8 NPT thread but as the radiator is aluminum , another aluminum fitting with the same female threads can be cleaned and soldered in place. If you don't wish to do that just use a decent size external trans cooler and mount it in front of the radiator.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
The purpose of the transmission loop in the radiator isn't cooling, per se, it's to keep the trans fluid at the proper temperature. A standalone transmission cooler should have a thermostatic valve on it to keep the transmission fluid from being too cool. Too hot or too cool is not cool for a transmission....(see what I did there?)
Thanks for the help. I actually cleaned out the old radiator in frustration and put it back in. But I am still overheating when sitting idle. I have checked the head gasket and all seems normal there. I also just did a very basic flush to no avail. I think my coolant system is gunky, I can see build up in places. Is there a chemical cleaner that you trust with a Fiero? I think that is my next step. I have already replaced the water pump as well.
A good welder could tig it shut and then you could retap it to the original size. I dunno about helicoils in npt sizes.If theres still some meat in there you could clean it out w the right size tap and lotsa teflon tape pte paste on the trans fitting.
Just a thought, you may look into a “threadsert”. In this situation you could drill a slightly larger hole where the radiator threads are now in the radiator. Just large enough to remove the old stripped radiator threads. Using a Tap, thread the (now larger) hole in the radiator to match the outside diameter of the “threadsert”. Screw the threadsert into the radiator hole you just threaded with the Tap. Now screw in the existing cooling tube with the same fitting, tighten. You are done. The “threadsert” technique is very similar to the “heli coil” concept used for spark plug replacement when the threads are stripped. This is not hard to do at all . I would also recommend using some sealant on the thread sert threads when you install it.
Just a thought, you may look into a “threadsert”. In this situation you could drill a slightly larger hole where the radiator threads are now in the radiator. Just large enough to remove the old stripped radiator threads. Using a Tap, thread the (now larger) hole in the radiator to match the outside diameter of the “threadsert”. Screw the threadsert into the radiator hole you just threaded with the Tap. Now screw in the existing cooling tube with the same fitting, tighten. You are done. The “threadsert” technique is very similar to the “heli coil” concept used for spark plug replacement when the threads are stripped. This is not hard to do at all . I would also recommend using some sealant on the thread sert threads when you install it.
Good luck, let us know how you make out.
Sledgehammer
I believe that using a threadsert of Helicoil might be difficult as the trans cooler fitting is part of a tube in the radiator. If you drill through you will go right through the tube. I'd go with the mig weld method or the external cooler.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
How did you check your headgasket? I actually don't recommend ever using a chemical type flush on a cooling system as it can lead to leaks. What temp thermostsat and fan switch are you running? Does your radiator fan work? When you say overheating at idle what exactly is happening? Are you sure there is no air trapped in the system? No dents in your cooling tubes under the car?
[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 08-28-2019).]
Be sure to go through all of your lines with a visual check. For instance, I was having cooling issues and couldnt find the culprit. I was actually changing my starter and I found where the previous owner used the wrong hose on the crossover pipe along the back to the steel line on drivers side. It was hard to see but it went up and pinched to a narrow opening restricting flow. Also make sure your fan is kicking on, if it is only overheating at idle it sounds like the the fan isnt working...
------------------ "HICCUPP" 1988 2.8 GT Ocelot SS exhaust
Even at the risk of damaging the gasket I still used a cleaner. Mainly because when I tried to flush it nothing came out intill I poked inside the drain valve with a screwdriver to move enough crud out of the way. I think the car sat with tap water in it at some point in its life... Now my water is nice and clear. I also gently washed my radiator with a power washer, it was full of caked dirt. Also got a new radiator cap, the old ones spring was to weak. The car runs perfectly cool now, no problems at all. I can sit in hot summer heat in rush hour traffic with no fear of overheating.
Basically all I did was: New water pump New radiator cap New thermostat, standard 195° Flushed the cooling lines with a Napa rust and buildup remover Cleaned the radiator
