I know there's a lot of information out there about headlamp motor repairs and replacements, but I've seen some conflicting advice (and some spirited disagreements on this very forum), so I'm hoping to get some insight from more knowledgeable Fiero wizards before I potentially spend money on the wrong things. I apologize if I'm starting a topic you're all sick of seeing, ha!

I bought my '85 GT just over two weeks ago and it has the Gen II headlamp system. The driver's side headlamp has just stopped functioning correctly. Here's the details:

With the hood closed, the driver's side lamp will open slightly and quickly close a couple of times as the motor is running, then stays shut. With the hood open, both lamps will raise all the way up, though the movement of the driver's side lamp housing is a bit more jagged. I'd say there's a tiny moment of hesitation about halfway up. Oddly, the driver's side lamp actually completes its trip upward before the passenger's side lamp does-- it moves a bit faster overall on the way up. When turned off, both headlamps lower normally and in sync with one another.

When raising or lowering the lights, the driver's side motor continues to run for about four seconds after the lamp housing has stopped moving. I can hear it doing the same thing when the hood is closed. I've read in some places that this simply indicates a need for a lamp motor rebuild; I've read in other places that it's a sign of a dying control module (I really hope I don't have to replace that).

The manual knob does seem to raise and lower the driver's side lamp normally, except that when the lamp is down, the knob turns freely in the clockwise direction forever. There's no end to its range of motion like the passenger's side knob.

So my question is, do I need a rebuild kit, a new motor, or is my control module on the way out? Or something else?

Thanks so much for any help you can provide!

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'85 GT 3.4 L

The common problem is that the bump stops crumble and instead of being a solid drive connection that lifts and lowers the motors, it becomes a friction type operation. Bump stops are readily available and easily replaced. Sometimes the teeth on a gear will strip, but that usually happens in just one spot and will cause problems only at fully open or fully closed.

A more serious cause of similar problems is that the drive plate that's bonded to the lift arm shaft will come loose and spin on the shaft. It's more serious because the only place to get replacements is from another motor. Or you can purchase new Generation II motors from the auto parts stores. Some have experienced reverse operation of the new motors and had to swap the harness pinouts.

BTW, don't think or expect the motors to work in sync with one another. They aren't mechanically connected and many factors affect how fast they travel.

Generation 2 Headlight rebuild bushings. The rebuild usually fixes the problem.

http://rodneydickman.com/ca...h=32&products_id=231

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 07-31-2019).]

Thanks to you both. I think I'll order the rebuild kit and see where I am after that. It's so inexpensive that it's worth trying regardless.

How would you compare the rebuild kits sold by Rodney Dickman to the ones sold by The Fiero Store?

I've never used the Genertion II rebuild kits from The Fiero Store. I can't compare them. Rodney's gears are aluminum. Fiero Store gears are plastic. I dn't know what the difference is in their bump stop bushings.

A word of caution. Dont take the motors completely apart. It's difficult to get the motor back together with the brushes in the correct position. Also, there's a very small single ball bearing about the size of a #6 birdshot pellet that sits in a recess in the bottom end of the motor screw shaft. It's very easy to lose. All you need do is remove the gear and it's shaft.

Do Not buy Rondey's or anyone else that sell Delrin pin replacement.
see https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/128600.html

And DIY rebuilding either motor type is Not As Simple as most claim.
In short Pins are made "weak" to protect the rest of the motor. After years of use does wear out but replace even w/ right plastic pins, other issues are likely happening at same time. So Most replace w/ whatever, don't fix the other issues then still don't work or fails soon and maybe posts here or elsewhere asking why, whining, etc.

Worse, People think they just use Derlin pins and other "upgrade" spending hours to days trying to fix them and spend a lot of money to add brass gears and more just to break again often a few days to a few months.

Good news, Cardone AZ etc have New Gen2 Motors and with a lifetime warranty. They are a bit faster then OE but both are well under 1 sec to open or close. I've tested Cardone and opens in about ⅔ of a second.

Even w/ new motors, you must make sure everything else is good.
Binding HL lifts and doors won't help the new motor to last.
Problems w/ Gen2 Module can kill them too.
See my Cave, Gen 2 HL Motor for common issues etc but doesn't cover all problems.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

quote Originally posted by theogre: Do Not buy Rondey's or anyone else that sell Delrin pin replacement. Worse, People think they just use Derlin pins and other "upgrade" spending hours to days trying to fix them and spend a lot of money to add brass gears and more just to break again often a few days to a few months.

I installed Delrin pins in my car in 2004. I will be sure to post here when my head lignts fail.

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 08-01-2019).]

quote Originally posted by Gall757: I installed Delrin pins in my car in 2004. I will be sure to post here when my head lignts fail.

They are working in my headlights for the past 5 years but I do see the point that they may be harder on the gear. When it lets go then I'll buy the new Cardone motors.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

quote Originally posted by Gall757: I installed Delrin pins in my car in 2004. I will be sure to post here when my head lignts fail.

I had Rodney's Delrin pins and Why the motors damage or broke the parts shown in that thread.
Is only a matter of luck and time before they fail w/ Delrin pins. More so when the HL lift and door have problems too.

I even have spare OE motors and I though maybe I'll rebuild them w/ Dorman 74410 pins but not worth time or effort when I get New motors and a good warranty.
I still have the Dorman pins sitting on a self next to me and didn't bother to rebuild the spares.
You have to clean all crap, lube w/ right lube, often clean and adjust motor thrust bearing and screw, and more, hoping they work for awhile.
Plus Many use any grease/oil on hand ignoring most lubes can cause big problems by attacking the gear, get hard sticky or both, etc.

Dorman part is sold to use w/ Ford PW motors w/ a lot more use and force to run side windows. Like Fiero HL motors, many idiots use all kinds of crap to "fix" them even steel bearing and break more important and often more expensive parts.

And while post here and elsewhere saying Dorman is a drop fit, not always going to fit Fiero HL motors.
Just now I tried them in 2 GM motors already torn apart. Either change a bit of size over years sitting on the self or the batch is made a bit bigger diameter Or Gear itself have shrunk a tiny bit or combination of both. Both are GM OE gears and 30+ years old.
Very small diff makes the gear not to go on the shaft. One gear not at all, other jammed partway.
I would need to sand the pins but Too hot and I have no need to try more.