I have decided to try this route as there is no other choice for replacing a Gen 1 motor. Replacements are not always available and much of time as in my case, once the motor shorts or the brushes fall off the plate they are not re-buildable.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
I can't answer this question but I can tell you that most of the actuators have adjustable cams and limited switches below the bottom cover that can be set for any activation point. You loosen the screw, rotate the cam to trigger the limit switch at whatever position, and tighten the screw. Still don't know if 2" of travel will do it. For this application you are limited to the overall total size of the actuator. This may not be the optimum solution but what else can you do when Gem1 motors are no longer available and those that remain are not always rebuildable.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
And to think that Pontiac could have eliminated all of the headlamp operation drama by simply attaching the headlamp door to the rest of the mechanism...like every other manufacturer. Never hear of headlamp door lift issues with other 80's cars from Honda, Nissan, Toyota, Mazda/Ford, etc., etc.
The youtube video showing it in action is 4 years old, so I guess it became available around the time this thread was last active. Anyway, it looks like it would solve the problems discussed in the thread, it ignores the initial start up current, which is the main problem brought up earlier. Not crazy expensive, possibly could get away with one box for both motors? Not sure on the current draw OPs actuators have but it would be close I think. Two would be better for the fact of if one jams, the other still goes up.
The youtube video showing it in action is 4 years old, so I guess it became available around the time this thread was last active. Anyway, it looks like it would solve the problems discussed in the thread, it ignores the initial start up current, which is the main problem brought up earlier. Not crazy expensive, possibly could get away with one box for both motors? Not sure on the current draw OPs actuators have but it would be close I think. Two would be better for the fact of if one jams, the other still goes up.
No reason this couldn't get hooked up to my new headlight controller. My setup monitors current across both channels (each headlight) independently. They can disregard inrush current and allow you to pass power through a high amperage line independent of the existing wiring.
