I don't know if anyone has done this yet, so I'm gonna give y'all a heads up if no one hasn't.

After messing around trying to get my ratty gen 1 headlight motor system to work properly and failing multiple times, I stumbled upon this relay: http://colehersee.com.au/pr...everse-relay-module/
I used this relay, a momentary SPDT Switch, inline ATC fuse holder w/ a 10-15 amp fuse, some eBay gen 2 motors and the motor leads from and early 90's Camaro to get rid of all the problematic BS that the gen 1 system is.


I ran the switch to the panel in the center console where the cig lighter is and got my 12V trigger voltage from there. I have my battery mounted in front, so my main voltage for the relay is coming from there. I've had it installed for about a month now and it has worked great.

This forum has been a gigantic help in me getting my old Fiero resurrected from the dead so I figured I'd try to give a little something back. I'll post some pics later.

[This message has been edited by bigdust80 (edited 11-11-2018).]

Sorry but expect that you will break the Gen2 motors power by hand or dumb relay(s) setup like that.
Then add 50+a relays and 30a fuse is way more power than the motors should ever used and if the motors are stuck on for any reason can melt or even cause a fire and never blow that fuse.

Gen2 Module will shut off power in milliseconds when doors are full open/close or anywhere between if door(s) or HL lift(s) get jammed. Motor normal run time is < 1 second because the Module shuts down a motor when that motor draw more then ~ 4a. Module's backup timer shuts down in ~ 5 sec but should not be used all the time or module and/or motor(s) will die.

Motor pins/dowels are bumpers/"shear keys" to absorb gear shock at end of travel and can break for jamming etc but is a "last resort" plan and may not shear before motor(s) melt.
Worse many motors off Ebay have Delrin pins and won't shear. They might break the gear or output shaft but don't count on that before motor(s) melt.

See my Cave, Gen 2 HL Motor
and search here for more treads this year.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

I agree with the fuse part. I definitely need to downsize to either a 10 or 15 amp. A 15 would probably be ideal since you are actuating both motors at the same time and a single motor draws a little over 5 amps max. I'll edit my original post to reflect that.

I'm done trying to find questionable used parts at crazy high prices due to them being obsolete. The switch I'm using is a momentary switch. As soon as the headlight buckets reach the end of their travel, I let off. I'm sure that .5-1 second isn't going to wipe out the motors. I'd love if someone would come out with a new relay that would work like stock. I don't see that happening, so that's why I brought this up. I'm sure I'm not the only person that wants to retain pop-up headlights and is tired of jacking around with old, janky parts.