I Answered that Too Quickly ! if I turn On the key (not start), it Does Nothing. If I "Crank it", it will start and hold 13 PSI. As soon as the key is "Shut Off", it goes to Zero within 1-2 seconds. ** NO Pressure only turning the key to "On" Position.** Only pressure if it's cranked and running.
A dollar says fuel pump relay.
If the pump only comes on with oil pressure, then the ECM isn't able to run it when you turn the key to on. If it stalls at a stop, you may have a bad oil sender too, or low pressure!!
The Pump DOES "come on" with key turned on, just No Pressure the first time. ( only 6 psi the 2nd time). then won't hold it. I have 2 OIL Gauges, 1 "original" and 1 "mechanical". the original will say 60-80 psi, mechanical says 40 ! when the car "idles down" in gear the mechanical stays at 30, the Original jumps all over the place, but never to "0".
gOT AND INSTALLED THE NEW THROTTLE body "rebuild kit w/ regulator", absolutely No Change. Still, turn on key, the pump whirs, but no Pressure. do it 5-6 times, no pressure. crank it and it will start and run and hold 12 PSI "while running". turn off the key and Immediately goes to 0, zip, nothing. turn on the key, pump whirs, No Pressure. Seems it will hold 12-13 psi WHILE IT'S RUNNING, but won't do Any pressure if Not Running ! boy I hate to drop the full tank if that's not it ! LOL
Spoon ------------------ "Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut
[This message has been edited by Spoon (edited 07-10-2018).]
Make sure you get a section that shows SAE 30R10 on the hose. Even if the price is correct they could still cut from the wrong spool thinking its all fuel injection hose. Don't trust the box its in either!
Spoon
------------------ "Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut
New FUEL PRESSURE Reg and rebuilt TB !, It ran ok for about 50 miles, Now , back to stalling at idle in gear at light. no sputtering, just shut off ! It Will re-start. IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE LEFT ???
Replace the fuel pump, it has a built in check valve that may have failed which will allow it to deliver sufficient pressure while it is running, but not hold it when it is not. The pressure drop off appears to be too fast to represent a leak on the pressure side. A leak that bad should make it difficult to achieve sufficient pressure and should get worse with use in the typical fashion a hose leak would. Failure to generate fuel pressure immediately upon being turned on indicates you have a fuel pump problem. Bad pumps can run and generate, intermittent, little and no pressure.
Put unleaded fuel in it. Despite your feeling it runs better with premium. Premium takes longer to burn in a relatively low compression engine and could contribute to a rich condition, especially if engine wear resulting in lower than normal cylinder pressure is present. Consider a compression test. When I ran premium fuel in a low mileage 85 2.8L V6 Firebird, it became noticeably sluggish and it ran hotter. I never did it again the symptoms were so immediate and obvious.
Intermittent stalling in the presence of the parts you have replaced would cause me to consider the distributor also. I had one in a Fiero that would run the car 3-4 miles and quit, then startup after cooling a few short minutes and repeat the cycle.
