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Yet another headlight issue by Spoon
Started on: 01-01-2018 10:16 PM
Replies: 2 (174 views)
Last post by: Spoon on 01-02-2018 10:43 PM
Spoon
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Report this Post01-01-2018 10:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpoonSend a Private Message to SpoonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Over the pass few weeks I've read several postings on the headlights not functioning properly or one side will raise faster than the other. So I thought I would check mine out. (86 SE with 87 headlight upgrade) Bought it about 16 yrs ago & can count on 1 hand how many times I had to use the headlights.

Sure enough the driver side goes up "not faster" than the passenger side but "sooner than" the passenger side. I did the conversion myself so everything is original except the harness and motors and of course the module. Here's what I found.





Check out the hole size in the lift link. The sleeve is missing or it was never there in the first place and the hole has worn oblong causing a lag when raising the lights.
Had some spare buckets on the shelf so I replaced it and lubed everything while I had things apart. Now they both open at the same time.

Anyone else had this experience?

Spoon


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"Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut

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theogre
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Report this Post01-02-2018 12:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Missing bushing?
Maybe OE screw up but most are people "fixing" them...
Even Lube w/ plastic bushings is often bad in the long term.
If you did same, will have problems again.
Because Many lubes eat or wreck plastic, hold dirt or causes other problems including "white grease" here and on/in pedal pivot plastics.

clean plastic w/ 70-90% alcohol and let dry. (Brake and carb cleaner can Eat plastic.)
Spray metal pivots w/ dry Teflon then install.

Teflon is ok but Many dry formulas have strong solvents etc that attack plastic while drying. Dry types will leave anti-rust coating on metal parts.
Even if plastic looks ok to you, lube/solvents work to alter chemicals in plastic. Bushings can get very brittle and break into small pieces. Sim issue most brake rubber parts hate most oil/grease on them making them to swell etc.

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[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 01-02-2018).]

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Spoon
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From: Sadsburyville, PA. 19369 / USA
Registered: May 2004


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Report this Post01-02-2018 10:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpoonSend a Private Message to SpoonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
On the replacement lift arm that bushing appears to be a bronze sleeve with a collar. The pin that rides inside the sleeve is steel. I put a film of bearing grease on the pin and reinserted it. I'll keep a close watch on things especially since I just finished my battery under the headlight project. More on that later after I organize my write-up & pics.

Spoon

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"Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut

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