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1984 Fiero engine issues by Yield_sign27
Started on: 04-14-2017 05:53 PM
Replies: 19 (515 views)
Last post by: yieldsign27 on 05-23-2017 09:03 PM
Yield_sign27
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Report this Post04-14-2017 05:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Yield_sign27Send a Private Message to Yield_sign27Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have this problem on my Fiero after the car is warmed up, the car wants to cut out. I have to release the gas, the engine studders, but always recovers. It becomes very prevalent at speeds around 40 mph. It also seems to be very consistant. The engine was rebuilt about 6,000 miles ago. The whole car had been gone through at the same time. The temp gauge is where is should be, the car is not heating even a little. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated!
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Gall757
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Report this Post04-14-2017 07:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Welcome to the Forum!

Does the car run with no problems when cold?
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Yield_sign27
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Report this Post04-14-2017 10:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Yield_sign27Send a Private Message to Yield_sign27Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
No the car runs perfect cold, it only seems to be a problem when the car is warmed up and the temp outside is over 65. The car has a new coil, rotor, cap, plugs, wires, it got all that last year. I was hoping all of that would solve this problem, and for a while it did. None of the plugs are foulded out. Everything in the ignition is in almost new condition, except the distributer itself.
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jmbishop
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Report this Post04-15-2017 12:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jmbishopSend a Private Message to jmbishopEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I had something similar caused by a failing egr valve.
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cebix
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Report this Post04-15-2017 06:15 AM Click Here to See the Profile for cebixSend a Private Message to cebixEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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Yield_sign27
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Report this Post04-15-2017 10:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Yield_sign27Send a Private Message to Yield_sign27Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
There are no codes that I can tell. I could see that it may be the EGR valve.
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Gall757
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Report this Post04-15-2017 10:17 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Yield_sign27:

There are no codes that I can tell.


That is a little confusing. The answer is either YES or NO if you have properly checked for codes....
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Yield_sign27
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Report this Post04-15-2017 10:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Yield_sign27Send a Private Message to Yield_sign27Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
My bad, the answer is a no. There are no stored codes.


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cebix
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Report this Post04-15-2017 11:06 AM Click Here to See the Profile for cebixSend a Private Message to cebixEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It might be the EGR. Try blocking it off with a plate to see if it fixes it.
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Yield_sign27
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Report this Post05-14-2017 03:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Yield_sign27Send a Private Message to Yield_sign27Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Well I was hoping it was the EGR but it was not.. Does anyone have any ideas?
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cebix
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Report this Post05-14-2017 05:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cebixSend a Private Message to cebixEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Auto or manual? Being an '84 I suppose it wasn't swapped and you have the 2.5? Did you set your ignition timing right?

[This message has been edited by cebix (edited 05-14-2017).]

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Chris Eddy
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Report this Post05-14-2017 06:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Chris EddySend a Private Message to Chris EddyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
This is also a time where reading the engine data while running is valuable. I had a defective MAT sensor, and only found it when I ran the computer on it. (1987 2.5 DIS).
There are so many issues to check..
Vacuum
Intake manifold leak
IAC stuck or troubled
Spark plug issues, maybe wiring
Fuel pressure under load
Intermittent computer
Hopefully this is what you signed up for, this is where it gets fun.
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USMUCL
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Report this Post05-14-2017 06:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for USMUCLSend a Private Message to USMUCLEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Isn't cutting out when hot often an ignition module?
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don297
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Report this Post05-22-2017 05:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for don297Send a Private Message to don297Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Check your fuel pressure. I had a similar issue in my 84 when it had the duke and it ended up being a fuel pump going bad, couldn't get enough pressure to the engine when at higher speeds or heavier throttle.
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Gall757
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Report this Post05-22-2017 09:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by USMUCL:

Isn't cutting out when hot often an ignition module?


Often it is, but usually it takes a few minutes for the module to cool down before it operates again.
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theogre
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Report this Post05-22-2017 10:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by cebix:
Auto or manual?
because the trans can cause this problem too. Like Iffy AT TCC solenoid can cause problem even stall the engine at stop sign/light.

Start w/ See my Cave, HE Ignition and pull tach filter connection.
Pull AT connection too. Small square one on front of trans.

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edfiero
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Report this Post05-23-2017 02:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for edfieroSend a Private Message to edfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Chris Eddy:

This is also a time where reading the engine data while running is valuable. I had a defective MAT sensor, and only found it when I ran the computer on it. (1987 2.5 DIS).


Unless you want to start throwing parts at it, then you really need a scanner that can record data when the problem occurs.

[This message has been edited by edfiero (edited 05-23-2017).]

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yieldsign27
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Report this Post05-23-2017 08:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for yieldsign27Send a Private Message to yieldsign27Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The engine finally threw a code. It threw code 13 which is the O2 sensor. This is strange because I put a new one on less than 6 months ago.
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yieldsign27
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Report this Post05-23-2017 08:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for yieldsign27Send a Private Message to yieldsign27Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

yieldsign27

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The engine finally threw a code. It threw code 13 which is the O2 sensor. This is strange because I put a new one on less than 6 months ago. I have a video showing what it is doing, but I am unsure how to upload it.
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yieldsign27
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Report this Post05-23-2017 09:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for yieldsign27Send a Private Message to yieldsign27Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

yieldsign27

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quote
Auto or manual? Being an '84 I suppose it wasn't swapped and you have the 2.5? Did you set your ignition timing right?


It is a manual. It is the original engine, but it has been rebuilt. The timing was set by my engine re-builder. The only modifications that have been done to this, is the CAT has been removed and replaced with just a pipe. And it has a brand new GT style dual exhaust on it. I should have elaborated more, the issue only becomes prevalent after the car has been driving down the highway for about an hour on a 65 degree+ day. The car does not have AC, or cruise. When it got the new exhaust is when i replaced the O2 sensor. What the car will do is I will be driving down the highway about 45 minutes after I have left home and the car will start to die. I press on the gas and the rpm drops. I put it in neutral and stop, I try to press the pedal and all it does is cough and sputter. I let off the pedal and sit there with the car idling for about a minute or so, keep in mind the car idles perfectly even when this problem happens, it never dies from it. After a minute or so I press the pedal and it is back to normal no issues what so ever. It then will act up maybe 10 miles down the road or so and I repeat this whole process. If I park the car and let it cool down it works just fine when I start it back up and drive, but after it has been driving for 45+ minutes the whole thing happens again. As you can see, I absolutely hate driving this in town. If i go to accelerate, it happens to sometimes be when this problem presents itself and you have people honking at you but you cant do anything about it. After 30 seconds in town it comes out of this problem and runs normally. This does not happen at every stop light, it is random. Like posted earlier, it has thrown an O2 code.
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