Im looking for a 3 core radiator. Ebay has them for $135 or so. Problem is, maney of ebays American web sights are fake (located in a forein country). The Champion web sight is a bit pricey and I will go through them if I have to. Anybudy buy a 3 core radiator off ebay? What did the welds look like (American welds are smooth and uniform). Is there a low cost 3 core American version?
I purchased a Champion brand, thinking I was going to install a V8 in my 88 wide body project. It is a nice piece, fit well, but may very well be made in China as well. As I recall, it was around $250 several years ago. This past summer, I bought a Chinese aluminum radiator for my '62 Morris Mini. $52.50 shipped. It too was a good looking unit. Welds were maybe a little bit lumpier than the Champion, but better than I could ever do. It fit with a little persuasion. I guess the point is, that from my point of view, any of these radiators will work and do the job. Most are going to be imported. For the price, they look great. I'm looking at one for my wife's big block Corvette, and at about $275, you can't touch any domestic radiator. I'm having a tough time getting the Mini to heat up to the 180* thermostat rating. Of course the old radiator was from 1966, so was likely plugged. Good luck with your search.
I've bought several ebay aluminum radiators. If you select US only, it will come from the US, most likely California. Chinese intercoolers and radiators are excellent and the welds are perfect.
Purchased a Champion three core radiator for $150 about 2 years ago and its holding up fine. It is Chinese but I would say that all the radiators on eBay may be made in the same factory over there. The only problem is that it seems to use an unusual style radiator cap. Standard caps don't seem to seal it at all. I also have a Frozen Boost heat exchanger for my intercooler and I believe that too is Chinese. So far so good In all honesty even with a V8 I would venture to say that the standard Fiero V6 radiator in good shape will provide sufficient cooling. I only replaced mine as it was 29 years old and I thought that it would cool better but it seems to make no difference.. Engine ran at 180* before and after the change!
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Mine was purchased about three years ago so the price was lower. I just wonder if re-branded /re-boxed Champion radiators, that are made in China are better than the generic brand sold on eBay that are also made in China. The pictures look identical, the size is the same, both are made of aluminum and both are imported.. They very well may be manufactured in the same Chinese factory.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Check this out. This is the one I just bought for my 88. Looks good, but I am going to have to modify the lower support slightly to get it to fit. Fits the upper support well, after tweaking the rubber pads a little. $128, free shipping.
I've watched coolant temps closely during periods of tuning across the champion 3 row radiator and a brand new stock OE radiator with a 1.25" tube width that was temporarily used when the first 3 row failed and now permanently since the second radiator also let go. The 3 row only cooled marginally better than the stocker that is in place now. Pay close attention to what you're getting. Don't expect a radiator that has a capacity less than or equal to the stock radiator to make that much difference. I believe the 3 row tubes are 3/8" instead 1/2", I'd look for the 2 row aluminum radiator with 1" wide tubes from my experience.
One difference between the Champion and the generic radiators is in the drain fitting. May or may not be a big deal, but the generics use a thumb/finger turn plastic petcock while the Champions usually are pictured with the older style metal drain valve where the water exits the center of the drain. My Champion came with the metal type, of course it is several years old by now. Otherwise, other than perhaps different pressure ratings on the rad cap itself, there seems to be few differences.
I've watched coolant temps closely during periods of tuning across the champion 3 row radiator and a brand new stock OE radiator with a 1.25" tube width that was temporarily used when the first 3 row failed and now permanently since the second radiator also let go. The 3 row only cooled marginally better than the stocker that is in place now. Pay close attention to what you're getting. Don't expect a radiator that has a capacity less than or equal to the stock radiator to make that much difference. I believe the 3 row tubes are 3/8" instead 1/2", I'd look for the 2 row aluminum radiator with 1" wide tubes from my experience.
Agree that those replacement radiators only provide equal or perhaps slightly better cooling but what puzzles me is why your radiators are failing. You appear to be the only one reporting failures. Is it the type of coolant that you are using?? Are you running much hotter than you should? I use the old reliable ethylene glycol with 60% water mixture in all my Fieros , they run at a steady 180*and have not seen a failure in three years. If you have figured out why the radiators are failing please pass this info on.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
I've watched coolant temps closely during periods of tuning across the champion 3 row radiator and a brand new stock OE radiator with a 1.25" tube width that was temporarily used when the first 3 row failed and now permanently since the second radiator also let go. The 3 row only cooled marginally better than the stocker that is in place now. Pay close attention to what you're getting. Don't expect a radiator that has a capacity less than or equal to the stock radiator to make that much difference. I believe the 3 row tubes are 3/8" instead 1/2", I'd look for the 2 row aluminum radiator with 1" wide tubes from my experience.
I agree that a 2 row radiator, with 1" tubes, will cool better than a 3 core radiator with the small tubes. I've put a 2 core in my Fiero as well as my El Camino. For the Fiero, I used American Eagle model # AE 828( a Division of Champion). Works great, even here in Vegas with AC on and 115 OAT. Found mine on Ebay, although thy seem to be out of stock right now.
------------------ '87 GT , '00 3800 Series II SC, 4t65e.
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua: Agree that those replacement radiators only provide equal or perhaps slightly better cooling but what puzzles me is why your radiators are failing. You appear to be the only one reporting failures. Is it the type of coolant that you are using?? Are you running much hotter than you should? I use the old reliable ethylene glycol with 60% water mixture in all my Fieros , they run at a steady 180*and have not seen a failure in three years. If you have figured out why the radiators are failing please pass this info on.
Actually the second radiator was not so much a failure as the first. It did show some early signs of mild seapage at the upper left flange but ultimately what made it necessary to remove it eventually was the deer I ran over that further aggravated that side by bending the lower bracket and radiator. Due to the thermostat and coolant flow arrangement on the 3900, in the Summer coolant temps run a steady 195-200 even with the fan on and a little more at stops before the fan comes on.
I discovered that water pump speed at idle rpm is not sufficient enough to maximize cooling although it is sufficient. During testing after installing the stock style radiator, I found that raising idle up to about 1300 rpm significantly reduced coolant temps below what sitting at idle speed was able to do to the tune of about 10+ degrees. Perhaps a smaller pump pulley would offer a considerable cooling improvement for those who can benefit.
[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 12-12-2016).]
Ive always bought Modine or Champion myself. For my SuperBee, the local radiator shop wanted almost $500 for a recore on it. I bought a Champion instead for $150 maybe 5 years ago. It has a 413 cu in engine/ auto and they suggested a 2 row for it. I asked about the 3 row and they said the aluminum 2 row would be fine or they would send me a 3 row for free. It worked great. Corvette C4 use almost an identical radiator to Fiero. I know because I had to replace the Fiero V8s and one of my C4s at the same time. On the floor they were pretty much the same thing. The Corvette was also a 2 row. I think the need for a 3 row is overstated myself.
Ive always bought Modine or Champion myself. For my SuperBee, the local radiator shop wanted almost $500 for a recore on it. I bought a Champion instead for $150 maybe 5 years ago. It has a 413 cu in engine/ auto and they suggested a 2 row for it. I asked about the 3 row and they said the aluminum 2 row would be fine or they would send me a 3 row for free. It worked great. Corvette C4 use almost an identical radiator to Fiero. I know because I had to replace the Fiero V8s and one of my C4s at the same time. On the floor they were pretty much the same thing. The Corvette was also a 2 row. I think the need for a 3 row is overstated myself.
The 3 row is about the same as stock performance wise. The indisputable benefit of the 3 row is the aluminum tanks which will never fail as a result of old age and heat cycling. The best motivation for the 3 row should have been those with modifications that tax the stock radiator; increased displacement, with water cooled turbo for example. I recall a thread referencing the 2 row Corvette radiator swap which has more displacement tube wise than a 3 row and therefore cooling capacity given its ability to expose more coolant to the air stream at once. Aside from that you're correct since part of an engines efficiency comes from the coolant temp, as less heat is absorbed from the combustion chamber into the surroundings, the higher the coolant temp is safely. That's why our cars are allowed to run as high as ~240 deg before the fan turns on.
[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 12-16-2016).]
All the 2 row Ive bought, all had aluminum tanks at top and bottoms/ sides. They were completely aluminum, so thats not a 3 row thing. Champion explained to me that the all aluminum radiators were much more efficient than oem and 2 row were ample for almost any situation..at least on the street.
