87 V6 thermostat hpusing cap leaking, onto egr solenoid. Would the ruin it? Also brand new alternator stopped charging bat, assuming coolant got on it and shorted it. Tomorrow i can go to the nearest junk yard with plentiful fieros, an hour away. Would it be wise to grab an egr solenoid there or does water from getting rained on ruin these? I cant seem to find one new
And why would the coolant cap leak? Is it more common i overfilled it or theres a bad seal? I dont think its running too hot, new watee pump and temps reading pretty cool but probably will replace cts sensor
Side note, the vacuum line on the front firewall thats cut that i was told earlier on by someone on the forum itt wouldnt affect anything . I now see it leads to the solenoid so its probably important Any input appreciate
Cap Seal is bad and/or Tstant is rotted and even a new cap can have problems or have rust hole(s) on the side.
Weak coolant can rot parts from inside. See my Cave, Coolant Fill
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Side note, the vacuum line on the front firewall thats cut that i was told earlier on by someone on the forum itt wouldnt affect anything . I now see it leads to the solenoid so its probably important Any input appreciate
The line that you found that should be connected to the EGR solenoid is important. It has a rubber hose on the other end that connects to a nipple on the air filter canister. It's on the filtered air side of the air flow and provides filtered air to the solenoid. There is a small filter inside the EGR solenoid, but it's very difficult to replace. It was probably intended to be for some of the finer particles that might get through the regular engine filter.
The larger metal line running parallel to it was disconnected and a new engine rebreather system was installed as part of the recalls.
Paul Vargys (sp?) sells refurbished EGR solenoids.
The line that you found that should be connected to the EGR solenoid is important. It has a rubber hose on the other end that connects to a nipple on the air filter canister. It's on the filtered air side of the air flow and provides filtered air to the solenoid. There is a small filter inside the EGR solenoid, but it's very difficult to replace. It was probably intended to be for some of the finer particles that might get through the regular engine filter.
The larger metal line running parallel to it was disconnected and a new engine rebreather system was installed as part of the recalls.
Paul Vargys (sp?) sells refurbished EGR solenoids.
Not ging to being personal problems to the forum but i just got a ricketx low on cash. Can only do one thing at a time. Would its be suggested to go get one from the boneyard and rebuild as done in the ( How i repaired my egr solenoidand eliminated code 32" or whatever thread ?
And thanks ogre ill get a new cap and get some sortof sealer. 100% new coolant professionally done, just was way below the fill line in the front reservoir when hot so i filled it to the line. Maybe i overfilled it and thats white it's leaking? Ill clean the whole area up and try to get a new cap with sime sealant. Been removed too many times
[This message has been edited by painandgain99 (edited 09-15-2016).]
If you have a good selection of used ones available, purchase one with a guarantee. Try it, if it works, good,. If not, return it for another one. It will be cheaper, easier and quicker.
The thermostat housing should not leak due to overfilling. Any excess should be blown into the recovery tank since the radiator cap is the lowest resistance pressure point. You can use a good smooth block of wood with sandpaper on it to smooth the surface of the thermostat housing neck. Use a circular motion with light pressure. It often gets pitted with age. There should be a continuous shiny ring all the way around the top surface when you're finished. From memory, your cap should be a 20# cap and the radiator cap should be a 15# cap. No pressure release vent levers on either one.
The hose coming off the back of the EGR is pointless, it does NOT go to filtered air, it plums in before the filter.
Do as posted above and sand the top down with a flat surface, just as described above. and get a new cap.
You're correct. The nipple is on the side of the canister base, unfiltered air before it gets to the filter canister. Still, that air is probably cleaner than what would be pulled up into the engine bay and directly into the solenoid if the hose were disconnected. Otherwise they wouldn't have routed it that way. It also has the benefit of the water separator in the fresh air intake.
[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 09-15-2016).]
Like mentioned above, I'd check the rubber seal on the thermostat cap, and replace the cap if necessary. Also as mentioned above, use a hard sanding block (not a rubber one) to scuff the sealing surface on the thermostat housing. The idea is to clean off any crud that may be preventing it from sealing properly. And last but not least, put a thin coat of heavy grease on the rubber seal.
Synthetic grease, like SylGlide disk brake slider grease might be best. It's high temp and water resistant. Petroleum based greases often destroy rubber products. Synthetics are generally safer.
You're correct. The nipple is on the side of the canister base, unfiltered air before it gets to the filter canister. Still, that air is probably cleaner than what would be pulled up into the engine bay and directly into the solenoid if the hose were disconnected. Otherwise they wouldn't have routed it that way. It also has the benefit of the water separator in the fresh air intake.
Alright guys so i removed the cruise control system and capped off the little vacuum hole. Put new hose going from air cleaner to egr solenoid even it its pointless and new hose going to the rear firewall. The system SHOULD be operating in closed loop, my understanding of that term is that it means everythings sealed?. Now only code 32.
Replaced tstat housing cap. Grabbed 3 or 4 from the junk yard, got the best one and cleaned it them put some gasket sealer on it. Still leaking. Ill try sanding tomorrow.
The idle is fine now and usually right on the money hut if im driving and throw it into neutral or rev it while parked, the rpms will drop down and not be able to catch themselves back up ajd the car dies. Sometimes upon start it fluctuates and cant stay alive.
Im not so worried about the thermostat housing right now, i figured since the car was overheating revently maybe the thermostat is stuck and making it overflow or what you guys said. Im sure its a simple fix. Im worried about it dying cause now i pretty much cant drive it unless i left foot brake and keep my other foot on the gas.
So my theories are that maybe the IAC is used to the extremely high idle? Cant cope with the low one but i thought letting it idle and driving at 30mph resets the iac. Second guess would be the egr solenoid, especially since coolant has definitely leaked on it. 3rd would be egr valve. Eliminated virtually everything else besides those things and the tps sensor. So lets do a lottery on who thinks i shoud try what first. GO GO GO.
appreciating all the answers guys. Ive accomplished alot on this car and learned so much mechanically with the help of all of you, at 16 ive lifted a car off an engine and changed the clutch by myself. You guys are all responsible so thank you. Help me get this fixed so the car is reliable enough for me to drive to meets so i can meet some of you bad asses
Originally posted by fierofool: Synthetic grease, like SylGlide disk brake slider grease might be best. It's high temp and water resistant. Petroleum based greases often destroy rubber products. Synthetics are generally safer.
Silicon and brake grease are good... but thinking "Synthetics are generally safer" is wrong. Why? Many Synthetic oils and greases have additives that wreck "rubber" brake and coolant parts like rad and Tstant cap seals same as "Dino" products. First Synthetics didn't have or enough of them is why many people still believe their bad of engines etc.
Closed loop means the O2 sensor is active, and the ECM is paying attention to it. Open loop is when the ECM is ignoring the O2 sensor because it isn't warmed up yet.
Code 32 would suggest a problem with the EGR system.
Removed egr solenoid, found coolant inside and corrosion on wires. Is it worth digging out of the garbage and trying to fix or should i look for a used one
Well i removed the egr solenoid and the sensor attached to it, vacuum sensor as its called in diagrams. Where the plug goes. I thought they were just one part. Removed them and connect the 2 vac lines going into the solenoid together and plugged off the solenoid intake line. And the cars running better than before. Can anyone tell me the cons of this ?
Originally posted by painandgain99: Well i removed the egr solenoid and the sensor attached to it, vacuum sensor as its called in diagrams. Where the plug goes. I thought they were just one part. Removed them and connect the 2 vac lines going into the solenoid together and plugged off the solenoid intake line. And the cars running better than before. Can anyone tell me the cons of this ?
If goes thru emissions test for inspection then can/will fail w/o working EGR.
If you had emissions inspection in Illinois you would fail. If you have a catalytic converter it may have a shorter life. If you have an environmental conscience you may not sleep well at night.
Lol ok thanks guys, so since the car is still doing the same thing then this rules out the egr solenoid and the sense attached to it being the issue? Next ill try the tps sensor i guess and look for an additional leak
