So my car was running great, just about better than ever, then it happened.....I have a 86gt 4sp. It doesn't sound like valves tapping, i know what that sounds like in this car. This is a deeper metallic tone, sounds like its coming from the rear (back of car) head area. it sounds almost ok at idle, but with any revs it gets bad. ive read that valves or rockers might cause this, if im lucky. otherwise im f'd. i added a quart of oil but now its just above the full line. I cleaned the #1,3,5 spark plugs and cap/ rotor but they werent that bad at all. anyway that didnt help. i dont have the resources to pull a lot of stuff out, im out of town right now. im in Pensacola FL and if anyone knows a mechanic down here that would be great. ive had my go with other mechanics that dont know fieros and im not doing that again... If the motor is shot, realistically i might get another car instead. ive learned to work on these to a degree but tearing the engine apart in a driveway that not mine 700 miles from home aint gonna happen. if anyone has suggestions of anything i can check/tighten. im going to pick up a harbour freight stethascope so i can zero in on the noise. id love to fix it. ive had this car for 21 years and would like to keep it if possible. any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
that would be great. i read that as one of the possibles, but im afraid to drive it. afraid of doing more damage to it. i do have tools so i can do some things.
mmmm collapsed lifter. how far do you think i could drive it without trashing something else? There is a mechanic nearby (sort of) but i want to call them first and see if they've ever heard of a fiero. Just tired of showing mechanics my car and they go to the front to look at the engine!
my friend i do believe you are right. i guess i need to start the interview process to find a good one. last 2 mechanics i spent over 6K on repairs only to replace EVERYTHING they did in the next year and a half. Could've had a v8.. or a new v6 or even an ecotec, but i dont
my friend i do believe you are right. i guess i need to start the interview process to find a good one. last 2 mechanics i spent over 6K on repairs only to replace EVERYTHING they did in the next year and a half. Could've had a v8.. or a new v6 or even an ecotec, but i dont
Talk to friends and see if they know of a good independent shop... just to get a diagnosis.
Failed lifter can damage the cam fast. Could be cam is toast. Could be bad piston rod or mains bearing(s).
Pull spark plugs and use a bore scope to see piston tops and/or the head/valves. Piston rod problems can slam the piston against the head. (Not always but check.)
Driving a few miles is dangerous. Keep a 5-10# dry chem fire extinguisher (minimum) handy in case a rod fails and push thru block or pan.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
thanks, maybe i should get it towed? All that stuff down there gets expensive when youre paying a mechanic. Im still searching for a good one but i dont know anyone that knows.
Update. Took car to mechanic this morning. Basically "idled it" 3 miles down the road so it wouldnt blow up. Started it up for them and right away he said "rod knock". Not good but not completely unexpected. The first guy said basically that its not worth putting a new motor in. The next guy i saw (both work there) seemed excited to see it and asked me how much id sell it for. He is interested in fixing it on his own time (the owner is fine with that) and will be giving me a quote. I was wondering from all of you what you think about replacement motors. The crate is kind of high but new. used ones are all over the internet but whats the chance you get the wrong one... im not experience in motor replacement.. Would have loved to build a 93 3.4l and drop it in when this one dies, however this one is dead now. the budget is not there to go all out but i dont want to do this on the cheap just to get by a little longer. If anyone has a motor that can be shipped to 32514 let me know what you have. also i have no idea how much someone should charge me to do this. can i negotiate. i want to be fair. i dont think pissed off people do good work. Any thoughts or ideas that would be helpful. thanks.
im looking for the easiest and quickest swap. im visiting my parents on the other side of the state from where i live. a couple weeks is doable but a couple months isnt. just thought one of you may have a rebuilt or low mile "something" that i could use. The guy that may be doing the work isnt exactly a "fiero guy" so the closer to plug and play the better.
So my car was running great, just about better than ever, then it happened.....
quote
Originally posted by TropicalJim:
Update... "rod knock". Not good but not completely unexpected.
So I'm curious... what preceded this "sudden loud engine noise"? Was the engine low on oil? Were you over-revving the engine? Something must have triggered the event if "the car was running great".
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 03-23-2016).]
$1400 for the long block. is that new, used or rebuilt? Any source that i can trust to buy from? What can i expect to pay for shipping and labor to install? What happened prior to... was driving great, not revving terribly high and not crazy fast but a little bit. It was driving so good! the oil pressure gauge started its "dancing around" last day or so, but oil level was in the ok range, just a bit low. It would bounce then go back to 30-40 (by the gauge). im wondering if starting and running the car on an uphill (my parents driveway) along with the oil level being a little low was the problem. im not used to hills, i live in Ft Lauderdale. The driveway is really sloped so.
$1400 for the long block. is that new, used or rebuilt? Any source that i can trust to buy from? What can i expect to pay for shipping and labor to install? What happened prior to... was driving great, not revving terribly high and not crazy fast but a little bit. It was driving so good! the oil pressure gauge started its "dancing around" last day or so, but oil level was in the ok range, just a bit low. It would bounce then go back to 30-40 (by the gauge). im wondering if starting and running the car on an uphill (my parents driveway) along with the oil level being a little low was the problem. im not used to hills, i live in Ft Lauderdale. The driveway is really sloped so.
Just did a quick search on Autozone.com
That shop you are working with may have a source for rebuilts also.
no luck on autozone unless im looking in the wrong place. I did find this... http://www.hiperformer.com/...es-gmc_173lb_9.html. ( i dont know how to make that a link.) ive never heard of them but that doesnt mean anything. the mechanic is looking but im just trying to help the process. Anyone out there with a good low miles used one out there? maybe they get cheaper prices and i should just let them do it?
the oil pressure gauge started its "dancing around" last day or so, but oil level was in the ok range, just a bit low.
If the oil pressure gauge didn't have a history of "dancing around", I would've shut 'er down immediately and investigated. Several times I've read here of people ignoring the oil pressure gauge and/or assuming the sender was faulty... only to have a major engine problem (such as a knocking rod) shortly thereafter. The oil pressure gauge is installed for a reason!
I'm not trying to rub it in by mentioning all this, but perhaps it'll save someone else the expense and aggravation of a pooched engine.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 03-23-2016).]
Originally posted by Patrick: So I'm curious... what preceded this "sudden loud engine noise"? Was the engine low on oil? Were you over-revving the engine? Something must have triggered the event if "the car was running great".
Fiero V6 are known for low oil pressure that most think is normal but isn't and often early sign the engine will die for crank/cam bearing problems. Sadly Nothing obvious can cause this many times. Could have good Oil Pressure etc and Bearings can still fail w/o warning.
Rebuilt engine 1-12 month 0-12,000 miles warranty... Many parts stores can get rebuilt. Used "Fiero" (Any car w/ same VIN engine code.) engines could have same issues. Example: I replace 87 L4 w/ used engine but had to fix worn timing gear etc. I spend money for Engine, Parts, Gaskets, etc. and cost around $1000 total. That's not including "loaner tools" from AZ... You must buy the tool but get money back when you return it in 90 days or less. (Warning: >90 days and you own a used tool.)
DIY? IF nothing else is wrong and w/ all tool needed... Unlikely... you can drop the cradle, swap, and reinstall same engine in a day or three. Just One bolt breaks or rust frozen can eat allot of time and likely money too. (Don't need alignment if you don't mess w/ strut lower bolts but likely find strut and/or tie rod problems....)
Many Shops do not like or refuse to replace engines on old cars because when thing go wrong can tie up a bay for days to find parts etc. If things goes well you get charge for engine and parts at higher shop prices plus Time. Time could easily eat another $1000 or more.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 03-23-2016).]
So Patrick Im hearing you. The oil gauge didnt really have a history of dancing but it has done it in the past. i changed the oil about 5k ago and used Lucas. Seems like after about 3k miles the oil pressure started to stay on the lower end when idling but never in the red. One of the recalls on these cars addressed oil capacity with a new dipstick, dont know if this has it or not. So yes, low oil may have been the culprit. then rev it up a little bit and there she goes.
Ogre it sounds like your saying go rebuilt vs used if im reading you right. From what ive seen Im guessing: $1500 for long block $200 or more core charges $200 or more gaskets misc $100 or more timing chain set $1000 or more labor
One of the recalls on these cars addressed oil capacity with a new dipstick, dont know if this has it or not.
I believe that particular recall was limited to the '84 duke, so none of the V6's would have been affected.
The oil pressure at idle drops considerably in my '88 Formula when the engine is good and hot, but fortunately it doesn't actually reach anywhere near zero. I run 10w-40 oil with an added can of (old school) STP High Mileage Oil Treatment (with additional ZDDP).
Originally posted by TropicalJim:(Ogre Notes) Ogre it sounds like your saying go rebuilt vs used if im reading you right. From what ive seen Im guessing: $1500 for long block or more $200 or more core charges Depends. Jasper etc sends to install shop and you shouldn't pay core when true. $200 or more gaskets misc $100 or more timing chain setRebuilt engine have this. (Used L4 are well known for gear failing.) $1000 or more labor
Am I anywhere close?
Maybe. You have to ask around. Just labor prices are all over the place. Maybe Try http://www.jasperengines.com/ to give you a clue on pricing, watch their videos too. Again, this is only the engine. If you or shop finds other issues then price can go up fast.
Guy at shop is hoping to get away give scrape pricing, maybe more but not much. Other guy won't touch this for reasons above and more. If other buys it and take too long then junk or take it elsewhere. I'm guessing has nowhere.
Scrape prices are a low in many places. Many junkyards give peanuts or nothing for 15+ year old cars.
If car is ok to good then spending 2000-3000 in the engine maybe cheaper the getting another Fiero, often having same or worse problems. My car is in good shape or better so DIY myself to replacing engine was no brain choice. Even if had to pay more is cheaper then getting another car and fixing whatever is wrong w/ that.
If car needs other major work then might not be worth while. Can you find want you want and below engine replace cost? Many used dealers won't talk to buyers want to spend <$3000-$6000 and most only give 30-90 days warranty.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 03-23-2016).]
no luck on autozone unless im looking in the wrong place. I did find this... http://www.hiperformer.com/...es-gmc_173lb_9.html. ( i dont know how to make that a link.) ive never heard of them but that doesnt mean anything. the mechanic is looking but im just trying to help the process. Anyone out there with a good low miles used one out there? maybe they get cheaper prices and i should just let them do it?
3 yr warranty. Ships to home, but call around and talk to local auto part stores
The core is what you pay and then have returned to you, once they have the old engine. I don't know if I would include that in the price of an engine. Taxes.. yes.
