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Coolant Crossover Pipe Replacement.....can I do without dropping the cradle?.... by Dan87GT
Started on: 03-14-2016 11:33 AM
Replies: 3 (630 views)
Last post by: sardonyx247 on 03-15-2016 12:25 AM
Dan87GT
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Report this Post03-14-2016 11:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Dan87GTSend a Private Message to Dan87GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hello...'86 SE V6 4 speed.....I need to replace my coolant crossover pipe...I have a replacement......can I do this without lowering the cradle?.....

thank you.....Dan
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Mickey_Moose
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Report this Post03-14-2016 12:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mickey_MooseClick Here to visit Mickey_Moose's HomePageSend a Private Message to Mickey_MooseEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Done it on my 88 2.8l with auto - was a major pain (seem to recall it took several days), but it can be done.

Should also point out that I don't have a cat and I don't remember if I removed that section of the exhaust though (probably though). It has been several years and I don't remember the specifics - sorry. I did replace it once again when I did the 3.4l swap as that one was starting to rust (used the Fiero Store stainless one this time - the first was still OEM) - much easier with the cradle out.

[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 03-14-2016).]

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Raydar
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Report this Post03-14-2016 04:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It can certainly be done without dropping the cradle.
Having said that, it's one of the biggest pain-in-the-azz jobs that I've ever done.

Unhook your battery. You will be working very close to the starter.
Save yourself some trouble and unbolt the exhaust system at the Y-pipe, and let it drop. Especially if you still have a cat.
You will need to unbolt the upper A/C bracket from the engine, and let the compressor and bracket tilt out of the way. It looks like there's room for the pipe to slide through, but there isn't. Loosen the bottom bolt on the compressor. You may have to remove it.
I think you need to loosen the top bolts on the compressor, too. It will help tremendously if you have an "S" shaped wrench. Most all of those bolts and nuts are 15mm. I don't recall if I had to completely remove the bracket from the compressor, or not.

But wait... there's more! In order to remove the A/C bracket from the engine, you also have to loosen/remove another bracket (I think it's part of the dog bone bracket) that is bolted on top of it.

That's most of it. It's been a while, so I may have missed something. It's not fun.
I gave my vocabulary a workout, and scared the dog.

Before you do all of that, check your hose clamps, and make sure they're tight.

------------------
Raydar
88 Formula IMSA Fastback. 4.9, NVG T550

Praise the Lowered!

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 03-14-2016).]

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sardonyx247
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Report this Post03-15-2016 12:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for sardonyx247Click Here to visit sardonyx247's HomePageSend a Private Message to sardonyx247Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It's not that bad, I take off the bottom A/C bracket, 3 bolts, then I take out the 3 bolts on the top A/C bracket, and slide the compressor down, it's out of the way and still holds the Freon charge. Then the pipe comes out easy. Like doing an exhaust manifold, but without the broken bolts

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"DRIVE IT LIKE A FIERO"
'84 Fiero, engine to be determined '87 Duke (Sold)
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'87Blue GT 3.4L Swap Completed!!!!!!!! Boosted!!!!!!!
^^^^ Now in the Construction Zone^^^^
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[This message has been edited by sardonyx247 (edited 03-15-2016).]

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