I replaced the calipers and rotors all around.The rear passenger caliper leaks between the caliper face and the new supplied washer. I tried replacing the washer, retorque the bolt to 32 ft/lbs. It did not work so I return it for another with the same results. Any suggestions at this point?
How many washers did you use between the banjo bolt and the caliper? If there was one you should just use one new one, if it was 2 then you should use 2. You can use old ones if you clean them up with a wire wheel or hand file, wire brush. New is better, most times. And clean off the mating surfaces with a wire brush or wire wheel in like a die grinder, making sure not to get anything in the holes of the caliper or banjo fitting.
Even new parts can be defective, even washers.
Steve
------------------ Technology is great when it works, and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't
Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.
[This message has been edited by 84fiero123 (edited 02-28-2016).]
I've had this experience and there is another nearly identical thread. The specified torque was not enough. If the seating face was machined and you use at least one good washer, try tightening beyond the recommended torque.
Just one washer. Used only new washers did not reuse the old one. Before I replaced the first new leaking caliper I tried 2 washers with the same result.
If you used two new washers, make sure the surface on the caliper is smooth and not pitted. I find the rebuilds to be sandblasted and the sealing surface is rough. I used emery cloth to smooth this surface. I also use a hammer to tap on the bolt to help set the copper washer. remember, the caliper is alum. and will strip if you apply too much torque to bolt.
I once got a caliper where the counterbore seat for the copper washer was not machined properly. This did not allow banjo -bolt-seat to mate properly even with excessive torque. New copper washers a must , but in a pinch I have annealed a used one with a torch. Harbor Frt fish tackle box of copper o rings has worked on several different cars. Torque callout for the crush / banjo is pretty low so everything must be perfect. Never try to dress the banjo faces.
[This message has been edited by hobbywrench (edited 02-28-2016).]
New calipers have machined surface for copper washers. Rebuilds will probably not. They are bead blasted and can be very uneven/rough. These will not seal with new copper washers in some cases. The surface needs to be addressed or return caliper for replacement.
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Originally posted by hobbywrench:
I once got a caliper where the counterbore seat for the copper washer was not machined properly. This did not allow banjo -bolt-seat to mate properly even with excessive torque. New copper washers a must , but in a pinch I have annealed a used one with a torch. Harbor Frt fish tackle box of copper o rings has worked on several different cars. Torque callout for the crush / banjo is pretty low so everything must be perfect. Never try to dress the banjo faces.
I used 2 washers one on either side of the banjo. I cleaned and scrubbed the surface of the caliper where the washer goes. I torqued and released and retorqued and for the moment the leak is gone.
Patrick, I tried a search but did not include the banjo in the search. I would have saved myself time if I had as that post was what I was searching for earlier.
Thanks for everyones help. Glad it is no longer leaking.
The bad caliper I got did not suffer from surface finish. The threaded banjo bolt hole was not perpendicular to the washer seat. To me either a bad machine tool (counter bore pilot) or a loose jig, or....operator error. No amount of torquing can overcome this. I have some banjos seal with low torque.. Others do take twice or more (while holding breath). IMO there is some cold flow overnight, so if just barely damp check again next day. Once torqued a washer can not be reused-work hardened. Worst banjo sealing is on the pesky German gas filters.
Yes, copper crush washers can be reused, but they must be annealed first. New copper crush washers should already be in the annealed condition, so you normally should be able to use them right out of the box. (Copper will slowly age-harden at room temperature, though. Those copper crush washers you bought 10 years ago, even though "new," may need to be annealed before use.) When you install them the crushing process work-hardens the copper, so they become much less flexible and may not seal if you try to reuse them "as is." Heating the copper washers to annealing temperature (~1100 degrees F ... a simple propane torch will do) and cooling them back to room temperature will restore their ductility and allow them to be reused once or twice.
Soft aluminum crush washers work-harden when used, too, but they can't reliably be annealed using simple workshop tools and techniques. Just throw them away and buy new ones. I assume that the use of aluminum crush washers is becoming more common due to the increasing price of copper.
