86 GT 4-speed. I'm rebuilding front and rear suspension this weekend. Is there anything else I should definitely replace while I have everything apart? Obviously I will be looking for worn or damaged parts, but is there anything I should replace regardless if it looks OK or not? (such as common parts that fail, or PITA job I might as well do while I'm in there). Brake pads and rotors are new, as well as the front wheel bearings. I tried searching but couldn't find anything specific. Thanks for your suggestions.
Parts I am replacing (from TFS): -KYB kit 1 (Front shocks, rear struts, add-on rear sway bar, poly bushings) -Eibach lowering spring set -Ball joints all around -Poly total suspension kit -Strut camber adjustment bolt -Rear wheel bearings.
If you do the control arm bushings and the ones in there are original, I'd recommend you set aside extra time to get them out. I had to cut my lower arm bolts, front and rear, out with a Sawzall and it wasn't fun. You may get lucky and they will come out though. Also with the poly, you never get enough grease in the package, buy more. Everyone says poly squeaks so bad but I put tons of extra grease just in case and after the first week it has not squeaked again and that was 3 years ago.
I agree with Riddick85. Been there, done that. Have a Sawzall and/or a cutting torch handy to use on suspension bolts that are so rusted up they won't come apart. Also, if you're going to do any work on the front sway bar, be prepared for broken sway bar mounting bolts. You'll end up having to drill out and re-tap some of the bolt holes. While you're at it, you may as well ream out the bolt holes for 3/8" bolts, and get some SAE Grade 8 bolts for it.
Steering stabilizer. Or at least take yours off and check it.
Good Idea. Cheap enough I'll probably just replace it.
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Originally posted by Thunderstruck GT:
I personally would never use polyurethane bushings.
As for stubborn bolts and what-not, I've been spraying pb blaster around for the past couple days and hoping that they will come out when the time comes.
At least, not unless they are greasable.
I didn't know about the squeaking issue people have until after I ordered them... can't go back now. Ill be sure to lather them up with grease and hope for the best.
[This message has been edited by SCRebeck (edited 02-16-2016).]
I installed urethane bushings in my Fiero's suspension in 2004. I was aware of the squeaking issue, so I greased 'em up real good. They did squeak at first (enough to hear from inside the car), but it died down after they "broke in". I'm told they still squeak a little, but I can't hear it inside the car. So I'm not worrying about it.
As for the cradle bushings, don't do half-measures. Go straight for aluminum, and don't look back. Seriously. You can get aluminum cradle bushings from Rodney Dickman.
I installed urethane bushings in my Fiero's suspension in 2004. I was aware of the squeaking issue, so I greased 'em up real good. They did squeak at first (enough to hear from inside the car), but it died down after they "broke in". I'm told they still squeak a little, but I can't hear it inside the car. So I'm not worrying about it.
As for the cradle bushings, don't do half-measures. Go straight for aluminum, and don't look back. Seriously. You can get aluminum cradle bushings from Rodney Dickman.
Good to know. I plan to rebuild the engine over the summer, so cradle bushing will come then. This may be a stupid question, but what is the benefit to aluminum bushings? Durability? I'd imagine they would make for a lot of vibration.
I didn't know about the squeaking issue people have until after I ordered them... can't go back now. Ill be sure to lather them up with grease and hope for the best.
You could add a grease fitting to keep it lubed.
I also highly suggest using Lucas Red 'n Tacky grease....................
Originally posted by SCRebeck: This may be a stupid question, but what is the benefit to aluminum bushings? Durability? I'd imagine they would make for a lot of vibration.
That's not a dumb question at all. But it gets asked a lot. The short answer is: the engine cradle should have been solid-mounted from the get-go. With the '88 Fiero, GM switched to a solid-mounted engine cradle. The '88 Fieros don't don't have vibration issues. But they do have better handling than the pre-'88 models. Part of that is because of the solid-mounted cradle.
If the engine cradle is shifting under load (i.e. when taking a turn), it changes your rear suspension geometry. And that negatively affects handling. So the ideal amount of cradle movement is zero. You won't get zero cradle movement with urethane bushings. Yeah, it'll be better than rubber, but it won't be ideal. Solid aluminum is ideal, and doesn't cost much more than urethane bushings.
Edit to add: If you're worried about increased vibration, then you'll want to avoid urethane engine/tranny mounts. That includes the dogbone mount. I've lost count of how many times people complained of urethane dogbone bushings increasing engine vibration. Just FYI.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 02-16-2016).]
How about new rubber spring seats front and rear (FS), as well as, new rear upper strut mounts (Moog).
Some other ideas might be greasing the steering rack and installing a right side rack bushing (Rodney), inner outer front tie rod ends (Moog or Rodney) while the rack is out, tie rods in back (Rodney). Solid cradle mounts work good, but you probably would not be disappointed with poly, still a huge difference over the stock rubber. You might also look at your current front sway bar mounts and end links (Moog), poly works there. Red N Tacky is good, or use any high grade synthetic grease.
Not trying to run up your bill, but most of this needs replaced over time anyway, saves more alignments in the future. Your car will handle factory new and look great with those lowering springs. Sorry for the edits, long day here!
[This message has been edited by Kevin87FieroGT (edited 02-17-2016).]
