1) Can the lower driver's door hinge section be removed by removing the inner door panel only or does the outer skin need to be removed?

Went through the archives and seem to be getting conflicting advice that some claim it requires outer skin removal while others such as Buddycraigg's video seem to indicate it is removable with just inner skin (but he only removes the upper hinge and just says lower is accessible without removing it).

I replaced the pins and bushings (and inserted ogre's washer) with the door on the car but noticed the lower hinge section without the bushings (the door part) has elongated. I stuck a new pin just through just the door section of the hinge (not the frame bushing part of the hinge) when the pin was removed and have considerable play. Since I'm still getting a lot of droop when opening the door, I'm assuming that's the problem. The upper hinge seemed tight with the pin through just the non-bushinged side of the hinge.

2) Also I'm wondering what type of bushing people use after drilling out the elongated hinge holes. My idea is to use the other GM style bushing which isn't used in the Fiero (the one with a smooth outside not ribbed like the Fiero use in the door hinges ). I believe the smooth bushing has the same ID.

Apparently there was a really good writeup on spacecoastfieros that many refer to but it is gone now.

Listen to Buddycraig, you only need to take the door pad off to remove the door side hinge, but support the door before ever removing it, a helper is best. Not sure what side is easier to remove, door side or frame side as the both require trim removal and being a contortionist to get at some of the bolts. To me it is easier to just pull the door pins and remove the door then work on what ever hinge you want. Lots more room to work. But beware, these dam doors are heavy, a helper is a good idea to keep from damaging the door. also have someplace that you can just set the door down on, a padded saw horse or short stool, but if you do that and have any electrics in the door, Electric door locks, electric windows, and such, you will need to unplug those from inside the door or behind the kick pad inside the car. if you have a small table or stool cover it with foam like pillows or anything that will prevent scratching the doors paint and parts.

Each hinge has a hidden bolt in a place you need to be a contortionist to get at so beware of that. I hung my door from the rafters in my shop with some heavy duty rope but a helper is best, they can help to keep the door from twisting or damaging itself if you drop it.

Steve


------------------
Technology is great when it works,
and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't



Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.

[This message has been edited by 84fiero123 (edited 01-22-2016).]

Well I believe there's just two bolts. I assume they're both inside the door. Thanks for confirming they can both be removed from inside the interior door panel. Anyone have experience on the type of bushing to use in an elongated hole that is drilled out?

quote Originally posted by reinhart: Well I believe there's just two bolts. I assume they're both inside the door. Thanks for confirming they can both be removed from inside the interior door panel. Anyone have experience on the type of bushing to use in an elongated hole that is drilled out?

I don't but call a local parts store if no one post the link to someone doing this repair here. You are going to have to drill out the old hole to work with the new bushing.

it is easiest with the hinge off the door, open door pull doorpad off and paper underneath. Sometimes that is plastic. roll the window all the way up if it is the lower hinge you are repairing I think and all the way down to get at the bolts on top if my memory serves me, but don't take my word for it, it has been along time since I did this.

Someone will post a link and if you are lucky it will have a link to BuddyCraig's video of the repair. if he did one on this it would be someplace in here.

https://www.youtube.com/res...ch_query=buddycraigg

Steve

[This message has been edited by 84fiero123 (edited 01-23-2016).]

I did change out the door pins a couple of weeks ago. Definatley need a helper or someway to suspend the door, but to get it back on a helper is best. It's easier to get to the bolts from the out side of the door bottom bolts for sure the top bolts are a pain. Like said before taking the hinges off completely is easier to repair it. I will look again as I have both inside and outside skins off but I don't think you an get to the bolts inside the door from the inside of the door.

Watched part of the video, I am wrong about the access from inside.

[This message has been edited by LornesGT (edited 01-23-2016).]

There are four bolts. The two on the door side can be accessed with the outer panel in place (interior removed) but it is easier to get at them from the exterior. On the car side one bolt is accessed from the outside in the door gap, the other is accessed from the inside of the car under the carpet.