I am trying to get my 86 Fiero GT back on the road. Completely rebuilt the fuel system from scratch (another story) Just got it to fire up and it is running nice. Tried to test drive it and realized the Emergency brake is stuck. I have read all over the internet on how to adjust it. None of that is really my issue. Mine releases in the cabin, the problem is the springs have been in the closed position so long it's not pulling the cable back. Under the car I pulled the cable from the lever so the cables under the car all saggy and they still won't release. I finally tapped on the flat metal behind the calipers holding the springs tight with a hammer and it started to loosen up. Not too far before the car stopped running and sat for years, complete new calipers put onto it and the break system completely replaced. Since it has sat so long it is now stuck again. They always stuck even in 90 when the car was relatively new. Yes, I've had the car since 88. That is my history on the issue for background purposes.

My question to you all is, does it make sense for me to pull off the cables and lubricate the hell out of them and try to bring them back close to the new shape they were when the car died or just buy a new set and call it a day? Just was hoping to get some more good advice since you steered me right on the fuel tank replacement project before this.

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GGuth

I kept digging deeper into the forum and found another thread that had just the answer I was looking for. posted by Jetman 12-29-09

I've delt with this problem before.

Pull the cables off the e-brake lever and make sure that they travel freely, if not you can replace them or pull them off and work them free up on a work bench using synthetic brake grease. I have done both ways, easier to call Fiero Store or Rock auto for me.

The 25-year old e-brake springs have lost their tension, new ones available from Fiero Store.

Gunk and rust has built up under the e-brake lever on the caliper. Carefully pull the lever off and clean up the rust debris, give it a good slather of synthetic brake grease.

Before you start thinking about servicing the brake system, do yourself a big favor and spray the e-brake equealizer/ tensioner with PB Blaster for a week in advance. You may need some heat to break it loose too but put the odds of success in your favor by soaking the equealizer big time first.

Good luck and if you call the Fiero Store be sure to mention that you're a member of PFF so you can get a 10% discount on most non-GM parts. I like to support the good folks at Fiero store as they help me keep my little car running.

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GGuth

This is the thread you need https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/134054.html It would be really nice if all you had to do was lube and clean the arm .But such is not the case....

[This message has been edited by wftb (edited 01-06-2016).]

If cables stick to totally froze, jackets breaks/swollen, etc, then get new cables.

Lubing them might work but won't help in the long run.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

The cables still look good they appear to just not be sliding. It's like the springs aren't strong enough. Has anyone experimented with putting stronger release springs behind the rotors before? In my case, it looks like the e-brake released perfectly, the cables are loose under the car. It's like the release springs have been compresses in locked mode for 5 years and have lost their strength to release the brake at the caliper. That's why when I banged on the plate that gets pulled by the cable the spring is supposed to release it then moved and started to release the e-brake. Not fully though...
Maybe I'm just being really naïve here but that's what it looks like to me..

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GGuth

There is an internal piston inside the main caliper piston that has to rotate so the ebrake works properly .It gets frozen in place due to internal corrosion etc .When this happens the spring cannot push the arm back to the fully open position and the ebrake stays on .The piston must be unseized for the ebrake to work properly .The thread I linked explains how to unseize the pistons .I just went through this on my own car .I replaced the 2 short cables while I was at it but I had to get both pistons to break free as they were both seized .I found the easiest way for me was just take the caliper pistons out and put them in a vise and use the threaded inner bolt to break them free .Now everything works fine .I use the ebrake once a week to try to keep them spinning .Seems to be working so far (car is not on road right now ).

Thanks! That explains it. I'll let you know how it works out. Appreciate the support!

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GGuth

Sliders are stuck,
pads are seized on rotors,
springs are weak,
cables have seized or won't release even when you think they are.

I recently worked on a few cars for friends who the morons left the parking brake set for years outside in the Maine winters for 2 or 3 years. Never, ever, do that !

one had drum brakes the other was a Dodge caravan that has a very similar rear brake setup. it is not a good idea to leave the Parking brake set for any real long time, the pads can seize to the rotors, the cables can seize in the liners, the pistons can seize in the bore. there are way to many reasons not to leave the Parking brake on over just one winter never mind for 2 or 3 years. if you have to leave it parked for any long time, think months or years.

My own 86 SE had a rear caliper frozen so bad when I bought it that when I drove it off the flat bed that delivered it, it wouldn't roll down off the flatbed without starting the engine and driving it off. took the offending wheel off and found a broken rotor and seized caliper.

Never leave the Parking brake set when in long term storage, sure you could get lucky, and you could also be as unlucky as me and some of my friends have run into.

Steve


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Technology is great when it works,
and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't



Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.

[This message has been edited by 84fiero123 (edited 01-10-2016).]

Update on my Fiero brake situation. I finally got the wheels off and the car jacked up. I popped off the emergency brake springs by hand as suggested. They came off pretty easily. I then worked the cable back and forth and confirmed they are very new and slide easily. Not the problem as I thought. With the springs off. I put and adjustable wrench on the lever where the cable and spring latch onto. I compressed and released the brakes many times to loosen them up. At this point I realized I could turn the rotors by hand. I assumed I was good and put the springs and cables back on. I then put the wheels back on and could spin them pretty easily. I assumed once again I was done. I dropped the car and tried to drive it and it still acted like the brakes were on. It almost seemed like the front wheels were the ones not spinning. There are no emergency brakes on the front are there? This is so frustrating... Looks like I still need to jack it all over again and this time remove the brake calipers and compress the caliper... Honestly, I would have done it this time except since the wheels were not locked and I could spin them I thought they had released... I need to remember how to remove the calipers again... Any suggestions based on my latest findings?

Front calipers can seize too .jack the front up and see if you can turn the front wheels by hand .If you can turn the rear wheels by hand they are not seized and as long as you have not put the ebrake back on you should be able to drive it normally .And no the front does not have ebrakes .Does the car move now ? Sometimes , if you can get it to move , stuck rotors will just free themselves up after a mile or so of driving .But by then you will probably need new pads because the old ones will be quite chewed up .But at least you will be able to get the calipers off .Thats all I can suggest .

quote Originally posted by wftb: Front calipers can seize too .jack the front up and see if you can turn the front wheels by hand .If you can turn the rear wheels by hand they are not seized and as long as you have not put the ebrake back on you should be able to drive it normally .And no the front does not have ebrakes .Does the car move now ? Sometimes , if you can get it to move , stuck rotors will just free themselves up after a mile or so of driving .But by then you will probably need new pads because the old ones will be quite chewed up .But at least you will be able to get the calipers off .Thats all I can suggest .

Ayup, if you can get both back wheels in the air on good safe jack stands, block the front wheels of course. Start it up and put it in gear, if the wheels move the back brakes are not your problem.

Steve

Yup, it was the front wheels after all! How the hell damn crazy is that? I have it jacked up, wheels off and now I have to pull the calipers. I'm getting closer to getting this thing back on the road!

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GGuth