Seeing as the screws are as hard to find as the lights, has anyone ever tried to make new ones? I just bought a set of notchie screws. My idea is to cut them along the shank and weld in a piece of steel rod to extend them. If anyone has tried that, I'd appreciate some lessons learned?
I have access to a lathe. My biggest concern is welding them straight.
Get it within reason, a V-block with a clamp will help. Don't have a V-block, a piece of angle iron will work. Then turn the weld off with the lathe. You can turn the shoulder down a couple of thousandths if need be and it those few thousandths won't make a difference.
Or how about finding a screw that fits the required length and then just make a spacer (where the screw goes through the middle of the spacer) that is epoxied at the top.. basically a two-piece screw.
[This message has been edited by jaskispyder (edited 12-11-2015).]
We used to make these on a screw machine. Something similar, but shorter, anyway. I can't remember how the heads were made (ours was hex), but we started with a long piece of metal shaft of the desired diameter. The screw machine was configured to feed the shaft, cut it to length, cut the shoulders properly, thread, trim burs, and then move on to the other steps. Later, we added the ability to test the shaft for flaws, harden the steel, and test the final product.
Surely there are some of these machines still around.
Just out of high school I ran 3 Acme Gridley muti-spindle screw machines making coax cable ends. Something that long I think would be a problem to make on those, to dam long even on a lathe I think. Basically that's all those machines were, lathes with multiple cutters at different points as the machine indexed to the next position. Welding someone else already said how to keep them straight when welding more peace's . tack one point then turn 180 degrees and clamp the screw to make it straight again and tack to opposite side then do the same all the way around. I have done it to those long screws for hanging bikes from the rafters in the shop. you can use a lathe but I would just use a bench grinder and set the screw in some type of holder to keep it straight and smooth as possible.
a trick I used to use when making custom horse bits is I would grind the weld smooth as I could then take a belt sander belt off of the sander and wrap it around my bench grinder wheel and then around the bit and turn the grinder on. it made the weld just disappear and looked like it was never welded. Not the safest way to do that but it worked great for me anyway in that situation.
Steve
------------------ Technology is great when it works, and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't
Or how about finding a screw that fits the required length and then just make a spacer (where the screw goes through the middle of the spacer) that is epoxied at the top.. basically a two-piece screw.
Good idea but you would need to find a long screw with a flanged head that is larger than the diameter of the spacer. I don't think that such screws are available. The easier way is just to repair the old screws. Most of the time the phillips head of the screw gets chewed up. You can just slot the head or drill a hole place a hex head screw in there and braze it in.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 12-11-2015).]
Good idea but you would need to find a long screw with a flanged head that is larger than the diameter of the spacer. I don't think that such screws are available. The easier way is just to repair the old screws. Most of the time the phillips head of the screw gets chewed up. You can just slot the head or drill a hole place a hex head screw in there and braze it in.
While I agree with cleaning up old... something like this is what I am talking about.... and then add a spacer. The center hole only needs to be big enough for the threads, as the screw head will be large enough to keep it from coming off.
I've never owned a GT so I don't know what the tail light screws look like. If someone could post a picture and a listing of all the dimensions of the screw I could probably come up with a reasonable off-the-shelf replacement.
[This message has been edited by lateFormula (edited 12-11-2015).]
While I agree with cleaning up old... something like this is what I am talking about.... and then add a spacer. The center hole only needs to be big enough for the threads, as the screw head will be large enough to keep it from coming off.
If you could obtain a 7/1/2" long screw like this with the proper narrow diameter threads, epoxy on a spacer, then it should work. Is a screw like this available? Either way I applaud you for a bit of creative thinking.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Is a screw like this available? Either way I applaud you for a bit of creative thinking.
Don't know, but someone who has access to fasteners should be able to find something. Now the spacer would probably need to be made on a lathe, or find one to grind down to match existing. With that being said... this is for people who can't find a used one and really, really need a replacement.
Don't know, but someone who has access to fasteners should be able to find something. Now the spacer would probably need to be made on a lathe, or find one to grind down to match existing. With that being said... this is for people who can't find a used one and really, really need a replacement.
A friend of my dad's used to think this was his special trick.
Fastback tail light screws apparently only differ from notchback tail light screws in that the fastback screws are longer.
The heads on these screws leave something to be desired. I think perhaps an 6mm or so head as pictured above would be far better. These screws also tend to rust. Would aluminum work? I wonder if a teflon spacer that fit the screw shaft firmly would work.
Why wouldn't it? ether of those. Just glue them on somehow.
I'll have to look closer, but I thought the sleeve toward the top of the screw was tapered on the Fiero one, where it was slightly smaller diameter toward the bottom than the top. Maybe it's just an illusion based on it being a screw, who knows.
I've been looking at this. No easy answer to try and make reproductions. Possibly. They need to be heat treated or they will get very scratched when installed. I have some ideas. Not sure if there is enough demand to go thru all that work to make some.
------------------ Rodney Dickman
Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page: All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories 7604 Treeview Drive Caledonia, WI 53108 Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575
I've been looking at this. No easy answer to try and make reproductions. Possibly. They need to be heat treated or they will get very scratched when installed. I have some ideas. Not sure if there is enough demand to go thru all that work to make some.
I dont believe that the application is that demanding. Even soft aluminum screws should work. You've got to just snug them tight. Too much torque breaks the plastic holding tabs
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
I've been looking at this. No easy answer to try and make reproductions. Possibly. They need to be heat treated or they will get very scratched when installed. I have some ideas. Not sure if there is enough demand to go thru all that work to make some.
I'm sure demand would be there depending on cost.
Obviously if cost would be $25.00 a piece demand wouldn't be there.
[This message has been edited by Thunderstruck GT (edited 12-16-2015).]
Originally posted by jaskispyder: While I agree with cleaning up old... something like this is what I am talking about.... and then add a spacer. The center hole only needs to be big enough for the threads, as the screw head will be large enough to keep it from coming off.
This is what I was thinking too (really!). Easy to make the spacer from teflon on a simple lathe. Use galvanized or SS screws to adress the rust issue. The thick portion is straight with the bottom part concave/tapered so it centers easier in the upper tabs of the taillight assembly. I still have several sets of the originals so no need here. You could also paint/powdercoat/lube them if they're ok now to prolong livetime. I wonder more about the availability of the black rectangle caps that cover those screws (also from corrosion!). Not all of these stay tight over time and are easier to loose.
Oh btw: if a full treaded screw could be used (cant check that now, I am 7000 miles away from my parts) you could tread the inside of the spacer and it would sit tight without any glue or play.
[This message has been edited by Fie Ro (edited 12-16-2015).]
I've been pondering this. I have one idea. May or may not work. I need to know how much room is under those black plastic covers that cover these screws. My idea might work if there is enough room. The head of the screw would be much higher.
------------------ Rodney Dickman
Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page: All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories 7604 Treeview Drive Caledonia, WI 53108 Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575
I've been pondering this. I have one idea. May or may not work. I need to know how much room is under those black plastic covers that cover these screws. My idea might work if there is enough room. The head of the screw would be much higher.
Is there a problem with making exact reproductions?
Is there a problem with making exact reproductions?
Probably very difficult to make. Large minimum order. Low demand. I'm not going there.
------------------ Rodney Dickman
Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page: All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories 7604 Treeview Drive Caledonia, WI 53108 Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575
It's not as if people re & re their tail lights on a regular basis... or should we be? 
