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[This message has been edited by Thunderstruck GT (edited 04-19-2016).]

Fishing line and heat, just like removing the molding and badges on newer cars.

It's still a bit difficult though, since you've got to deal with the curve at the front, drip rails, etc…

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[This message has been edited by Thunderstruck GT (edited 04-19-2016).]

quote Originally posted by Thunderstruck GT: Never thought of fishing line. Wouldn't that stretch and break with the heat? Would the heat damage the window or can they take a fair amount? I'm assuming you use a heavy curved sewing needle to poke the line through? Thanks

The factory already included the "fishing line" behind the panel. The problem is that it is so old that even if you find the line, it will break as soon as you pull on it.

quote Originally posted by dobey: It's still a bit difficult though, since you've got to deal with the curve at the front, drip rails, etc…

The drip rails are very easy to remove, so that at least is a non-issue.

quote Originally posted by Thunderstruck GT: Every time I try to remove them they either come off in pieces or the black background gets scratched.

I found an '88 GT in a local wrecking yard a year ago. One sail panel was already sort of "crazed", the other was in good shape. I tried to remove the bad one first, basically using a butter knife with a very slight serrated edge (which I happened to have in my tool box). I got most of the panel loose before I got to the cracked part... and then the panel exploded. So much for that one.

I then spent at least half an hour removing the good panel. I successfully got it off the car, but I rubbed a bit of the black off in one corner about the size of a dime. I'm wondering if the black coloration can be restored in that small area prior to the panel being reinstalled on another GT?

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 10-31-2015).]

quote Originally posted by Thunderstruck GT: Never thought of fishing line. Wouldn't that stretch and break with the heat? Would the heat damage the window or can they take a fair amount? I'm assuming you use a heavy curved sewing needle to poke the line through? Thanks

You apply heat to the area where the adhesive is to soften it up, but not so much to damage the plastic. Then you use fishing line of a decent rating to "saw" through the adhesive, while a helper gently pulls the panel away from the body.

You don't heat the fishing line up. Use a hair dryer to heat the panel areas where the adhesive is, but keep moving it around and don't keep it pointed at a single location too long, or yes, it can damage things. Of course too much heat can damage it, but how much heat do you think it's exposed to sitting in direct sunlight all day at a car show?

Anyone that can remove a 30 yr old brittle quarter window without cracking it, is a better mechanic than I am. To reiterate, the problem is that these plastic windows are old, have faced extremes of temperature and as a result are brittle and easily cracked. I guess that there is a way to get the windows out with fish line, but even if you do, you might scratch the paint and then how long can you expect them to last? You might even crack them by pushing to set and reinstall them.
IMO. the best alternative is to push out the old windows (they will come out in pieces so wear leather gloves ) saturate the old mounting tape with 3M Adhesive Remover (its safe), scrape off the old tape and get a perfectly clean frame on which to work. Then buy a set of Chris Cooks quarter windows and install them. The graphics are perfect, the fit is usually good, the curvature is slightly different than the originals but hardly noticeable. To get them perfectly centered, I apply the tape that comes with the window as it was on the old ones , then I spray Windex on the perfectly cleaned frame, manipulate the window in position and press them in place. The only problem is that this has to be done on a hot day (80* or higher) for the double sided tape to stick, cure and adhere properly. In cool/cold weather its next to impossible to get a good bond. A heat gun might work but get too close and the window melts. A shop heater directed on the window frame area might be the best bet.
If you try to remove the old windows and reinstall them, you will still need the 1/4" double sided foam tape to reattach them. Let us know how everything works out.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 10-31-2015).]

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[This message has been edited by Thunderstruck GT (edited 04-19-2016).]

quote Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua: Anyone that can remove a 30 yr old brittle quarter window without cracking it, is a better mechanic than I am.

I have taken off two in the last month. one was even cracked and stuck on there good, but I didn't have the crack grow or crack more.
What I use is a flexible bread knife, with a good serrated edge. and saw through the adhesive. And a super sharp paring knife for what you can reach with it.

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"DRIVE IT LIKE A FIERO"
'84 Fiero, engine to be determined '87 Duke (Sold)
'87 Quad 4 H.O.
'87Blue GT 3.4L Swap Completed!!!!!!!! Boosted!!!!!!!
^^^^ Now in the Construction Zone^^^^
Las Vegas Fiero Club Parts/Sales/Service/Club
Fiero Road Club Of Northern Nevada

quote Originally posted by Thunderstruck GT: I have used and have noticed that the repop windows don't fit the openings like the originals. The originals also have a certain shade of tint to them that isn't in the repops. The repops I have seen are either perfectly clear or smoke tint. The repops also are not convex like the originals.

The vendors of GT Quarter windows are very narrow and the product varies widely in quality. I have had good luck with Chris Cooks reproduction GT Quarter panels. When I compared the graphics on Chris windows to the original ones they were spot on. The fit is good but at times the sizing can be just a tiny off. If it is too far off, Chris has been known to take them back and exchange them for better fitting windows.
The key to a good fit is to center them on a perfectly clean window frame using Windex spray before placement This allows you shift them into a position that is equidistant from top and bottom.
As for the curvature, Chris windows have it, but it is not as pronounced as on the GM originals. At this point in time these are the only quarter windows that have a stock type appearance and Chris is the only vendor who has come close to a quality reproduction. You can find Chris Cooks windows on eBay.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Get something called Spiderwire, or something similar to cut the adhesive. It is high-strength fishing line (not - standard line). Wear gloves. Use a needle or something to get it through.