Anyone found something that works far better then the stock ones?
...or maybe my stock ones are just 'old'...
Edit to add, cause I am sure someone will say it - YES I have taken the latch assembly out of the door and cleaned it (and all other associated door lock parts) - the assembly was cleaned in a ultrasonic bath for several hours and not a spec of dirt remained on them. They still do not want to lock all the time.
[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 10-23-2015).]
Ordinary, cheap universal door lock actuators, such as in this Ebay listing are much more powerful than stock actuators, and will work even on old un-lubricated Fiero doors.
You can buy aftermarket solenoids for any amount of pull you want measured in pounds it can pull. You might be able to use other GMs like Cadillac that would be stronger/better and fit exactly the same. Magnets in them get weaker with age.
Im just guessing any GMs from same time period are likely same mounting set up. You might have to change a wiring connector, so cut off the wire so you can splice if you have to. ie/ I used to have to replace door and trunk locks on wrecked cars or repossessed cars. All GM door and trunk locks were the same on all brands from like 1960s thru at least 90s in most cases, only the links varied. Only differences on the lock itself I usually saw was some were black and some were chrome. (either spray paint one or strip it) Just take your solenoid, or a picture of it with you to the yard and start digging thru Cads, Buicks, Olds, etc.
I've found that the Fiero door lock actuators are typically well and strong enough to do the job. The latch mechanism's lock rocker is usually not too stiff for the motor. A good grease goes a long way here though if there is an issue. There is one majorly overlooked reason that Fiero door locks don't work, or it takes a bunch of button presses to actuate... and its right here:
This lever turns back and forth semi freely when you actuate your locks, but the little clip on the back of the lock cylinder puts spring tension on the lever, pushing it against the back of the stationary bit of the lock cylinder, there is a lot of friction there. If you remove this lever, and put a little bit of grease between it and the lock cylinder and reasseble, you'll find it makes a huge difference.
I wont buy universal solenoids without them stateing the pnds of pull. You can get them from 5 pnds to 80 pnds. I used a lot of them in custom work for doors, hoods, trunks especially when removing outside handles and locks.
I've found that the Fiero door lock actuators are typically well and strong enough to do the job. The latch mechanism's lock rocker is usually not too stiff for the motor. A good grease goes a long way here though if there is an issue. There is one majorly overlooked reason that Fiero door locks don't work, or it takes a bunch of button presses to actuate... and its right here:
This lever turns back and forth semi freely when you actuate your locks, but the little clip on the back of the lock cylinder puts spring tension on the lever, pushing it against the back of the stationary bit of the lock cylinder, there is a lot of friction there. If you remove this lever, and put a little bit of grease between it and the lock cylinder and reasseble, you'll find it makes a huge difference.
Thanks will check/try that as well (I am sure I cleaned the area, but not sure if I added grease). Also ordered a couple of the actuators - hard to beat $7.50 shipped for a pair.
