About to do both my axles on my 86 4-speed manual. I bought new axle seals, is there anything else I should pick up that I am going to need to complete the process? Balljoints/tie-rods/struts/discs/calipers/brakes are already done.


Do I need to do wheel bearings or replace the axle nut or anything?

Might as well do the wheel bearings and the axle nuts SHOULD be replaced and for the low cost , why not?

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Louis Duet Baldwin, Long Island, NY
"I spread my wings, I try to fly. I believed in myself when there was nothing right. I know I'm dust and oh, we are sand. But we give of ourselves, as best as we can."
-G. Rossdale
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"Blue" <= '85 Fiero GT 3800sc series 2
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"Boo" <= '81 Delorean DMC-12, VIN #5835, Stock PRV engine, Peugot 604 Intake manifold, Exhaust headers, Anti-3rd brake light

quote Originally posted by Lou and Blue: Might as well do the wheel bearings and the axle nuts SHOULD be replaced and for the low cost , why not?

Is it safe to say that if I can do the axles I can do the bearings? Never done any before.

Make Sure axle is right length. Straighten then Compress them and both should match. (Compressing because inner CV uses a spring.)

Is no reason to replace rear hub and others unless their bad.

Axle Nut Should be replace EVERY time it's removed. While Haynes etc allow reuse them, GM Fiero SM and many other Factory SM Does Not allow used nuts for this.
Remove caliper and CA ball joint should give enough room to remove axle. no reason to pull tie rod end.
If you must pull rod end... (I never have.) Do Not use a "pickle fork" to pop tie rod. Get correct puller tool and tighten the tool. If needed tighten the tool and hit the joint on side w/ a hammer a bit to shake the joint loose.
See my Cave, Axle

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)