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Side Window Removal and Replacement Questions. by Dennis LaGrua
Started on: 09-14-2015 06:12 PM
Replies: 15 (2097 views)
Last post by: Oregon88 on 09-12-2016 06:07 PM
Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post09-14-2015 06:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Today I began the tedious job of replacing the side window on my 87GT because it is badly scratched. Got the inner door panel off and that went pretty easy but getting the window out and replaced looks like a very difficult job. The shop manual says to remove the rivets that hold the window stop and the rivets on the rollers in the channel that raises the window. Trouble is there is no way to get to the rivets on the rollers as they are on the outside part of the window and cannot be accessed on the door panel side. I have started to remove the door skin to get at the other side of the window but this is difficult too. The hex bolts on the inside edges, the rivets on the bottom and the screws under the strip molding must come out , but the real stickler is to also get to the nuts that hold the door handle and lock in place.
In short I am headed for complete door disassembly. Is there an easier way to remove and replace the side window?

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

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bkw88
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Report this Post09-14-2015 06:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bkw88Send a Private Message to bkw88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You can change the side window without complete door disassemble. It is not a easy task for sure. Depending on where the window is up and down, you can remove all 4 rivets. I have found it easiest to leave the window regulator in place. This helps to steady the window. There are two rivets that hold the glass to the regulator, and two for the stops on the glass. The white pieces that the rivets are in on the glass, snap apart, allowing the window to be removed. It's a real pain. If you have any questions, P.M. me and I will get you my number to see if I can help
Best of luck
Brian
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fierosound
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Report this Post09-14-2015 07:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post


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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post09-14-2015 08:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for the tips and for the diagram guys. I have studied that diagram and it appears that 4 rivets 2- #85 and 2- #86 need to be ground out, drilled , then rollers split, all inserts popped out and the window should come out. If I get the window to come out how do I get those rivets back in place? It still seems as though better access is needed and door skin removal looks like the answer but that really makes the job more complicated. Back to the project tomorrow!

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

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Fieroking
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Report this Post09-15-2015 02:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FierokingClick Here to visit Fieroking's HomePageSend a Private Message to FierokingEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Having just done a complete door rebuild. You do need the remove the outer door skin. If you remove the clips that hold the actuator rods to the door handle and the lock, you can leave the door handle attached to the outer skin.

Joe Sokol

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85 SE Daily driver with a 3.4 DOHC OBD II
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jaskispyder
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Report this Post09-15-2015 08:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have changed a few side windows and no, you do not need to remove the outer panel.I used 1/4" bolts/nuts with locktite in place of rivets. It really isn't that bad if you move the power lock mechanism out of the way. Plenty of room to do what is needed. I wrote the article on the Michigan Fiero Club website for adding power windows and locks to a Fiero and I have changed out a few side windows... I pulled an outer panel off and realized it was a waste of time as it takes more work to get it all lined back up.
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bkw88
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Report this Post09-15-2015 09:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for bkw88Send a Private Message to bkw88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have used the same method jaskispyder used. There is no need to remove the outter door skin. Just make sure to use self locking nuts. And be careful tightening bolts.
Best of luck
Brian
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lorennerol
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Report this Post09-15-2015 11:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for lorennerolSend a Private Message to lorennerolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jaskispyder:

I have changed a few side windows and no, you do not need to remove the outer panel.I used 1/4" bolts/nuts with locktite in place of rivets. It really isn't that bad if you move the power lock mechanism out of the way.


Yep. You can get to all the rivets by moving the window up/down, no need to remove the outer skin.

Forget putting in new rivets (unless you are doing a concours restoration) and use bolts with Loctite or nylock nuts.

It's easy to damage the plastic bushings and guides when removing the rivets- order replacements in advance from TFS.

Don't try to drill out the rivets- the internal pin is quite hard. grind/drill the hats off and drive them out with a punch (carefully).

If at all needed, replace the dew wipes and felt guides at the same time- it's almost no extra work once you have the inner door off and the glass out.
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Spoon
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Report this Post09-15-2015 09:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpoonSend a Private Message to SpoonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Dennis it's a piece of cake, just like others have said. No need to remove door skin. I replaced both of my door glass with gray tinted ones from Prosource Glass Int. I dealt with a guy name Richard who promoted the production of Fiero replacement glass. That was exactly 2 years ago.

I reluctantly used a hammer and drove the rivets out without breaking the glass. I used poly-lock type hardware from Home Depot for reassembly. Once I had it all back together I realized "A child could do it".

Spoon

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"Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut

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bkw88
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Report this Post09-15-2015 10:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bkw88Send a Private Message to bkw88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Do agree with you spoon, best way to remove the rivets is with a punch and hammer then drill out. Just be careful with tightening hardware. I broke a couple of windows when reassembling!!!!!!
Brian
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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post09-15-2015 10:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Will be back to the job tomorrow. With all these tips, hope to get the window out and dew wipes and new window back in.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

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jaskispyder
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Report this Post09-16-2015 08:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by bkw88:

Do agree with you spoon, best way to remove the rivets is with a punch and hammer then drill out. Just be careful with tightening hardware. I broke a couple of windows when reassembling!!!!!!
Brian


Just to clarify... you don't have to drill out the rivets, just drill off the head of the rivet and tap out the rest. Very easy this way.
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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post09-16-2015 06:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by bkw88:

Do agree with you spoon, best way to remove the rivets is with a punch and hammer then drill out. Just be careful with tightening hardware. I broke a couple of windows when reassembling!!!!!!
Brian


 
quote
Just to clarify... you don't have to drill out the rivets, just drill off the head of the rivet and tap out the rest. Very easy this way.


I ended up both grinding and drilling the rivets out. You have a concave surface so its difficult centering the drill to get it working. I guess a mini-hole saw or spot weld cutter would work to take out the rivet head, but I didn't think about that.until now. The window is now out without removing the outer skin. Tomorrow new dew wipes and a good used window glass goes back in, IF i can find a scratch free one to put in. Thought I had a good one but after cleaning it it did show some light vertical scratches. I could try a glass polishing kit but not sure how this would work.
In summation, it's not that hard to change the glass. Only two rivets hold the glass in place. The other two rivets hold the stops in place. That's it, remove the stop brackets, four rivets and out. Now to get four bolts and nuts in there to hold the new window back in place.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

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Report this Post09-16-2015 07:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpoonSend a Private Message to SpoonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Dennis, what side glass do you need, driver or passenger? The 2 I removed were in good shape. I'll recheck them if your interested. I could bring to the Neffsville show this Saturday.

Spoon

Edit to add: "For a nominal fee or trade"
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"Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut

[This message has been edited by Spoon (edited 09-16-2015).]

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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post09-17-2015 02:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Spoon:

Dennis, what side glass do you need, driver or passenger? The 2 I removed were in good shape. I'll recheck them if your interested. I could bring to the Neffsville show this Saturday.

Spoon

Edit to add: "For a nominal fee or trade"


You have a PM.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

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Oregon88
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Report this Post09-12-2016 06:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Oregon88Send a Private Message to Oregon88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks everyone!
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