The 87 Coupe I just purchased has both headlights in the Up position since I purchased it with both motors unplugged.
When I plug them in the driver's side motor will go up and down but will struggle at times and the gears will spin for a moment before they rise and after they fall. The passenger side light will do nothing at all.
I purchased two spare Gen II headlight modules from a wrecker in unknown condition. I plugged both of them in and nothing has changed as I still have no reaction from the passenger motor.
I tried to "jump" the motor at the plug by applying 12V and a ground using a battery booster however still no reaction from the motor with both polarities.
What is my next step for trouble shooting the motor? Was going with the 12V at the plug the right idea for a Gen 2? Also would a bushing kit or gear kit fix the issue or would I need a new motor?
Seems like you might rule out the control module for now since you are getting the same results with three different modules. Are you getting any kind of a hum or faint ticking sound from the passenger side motor? Could it be locked or jammed into the up position to keep it from falling back down? Are you able to spin the knob? Does spinning the knob have any effect on the position?
[This message has been edited by Rsvl-Rider (edited 08-30-2015).]
I wonder what would happen if you plug that motor into the drivers side. You can't install it there, but the connector should connect and you can operate the headlight switch just long enough to see if the motor spins.
Pull the motors out and check the plastic dowels in them. When I did mine it was full of dust/plastic bits. An order from Rodney and my motors work flawless.
[This message has been edited by hiwil88formula (edited 08-31-2015).]
If it's still bad after that, use a meter to check continuity between the controller and motor. If all the pars are fine, it has to be wiring or connectors.
I ordered and installed the bushings on the drivers side and that has fixed it's problem. I did however break 2 of the 3 side bolts on the headlight motor cover I'm not to sure how to fix that as I can't get them out with a vice grip.
Now I think I found the problem with the right motor. When I took it apart I noticed that I't looks like an aftermarket motor? The interior of the gear is actually full and does not require any bushings? Now when I took the gear out I noticed a piece of metal sticking out at the bottom of the spiral bolt so I took the motor part apart to get to it. Once I opened the motor I found that one of the springs that push on the 2 brushes was loose and I guess fell into the motor and was ground up. I made a new spring using a spring from a ball point pen however I cannot get the motor back together. How do you hold the 2 brushes down while putting the motor in place? I managed to get it back but it was wrong and sparked when I tested it so I assume the brush has fallen out of the holder when I put the motor back in.
At this point would it be easier just to change motor? I think the motor still works as it did flinch when I conected it to power this time, before the spark.
It sounds like a half/ased fix to me. Get the real motor with the right clutch roller things. They are there for a reason, and you don't want a failure late at night on the freeway.
I rebuild the gen II motors with the nylon bushings and admittedly this repair technique eliminates the damping action of the motors. They now slam up and down. Those bushings should have been produced in a hard rubber or silicone material. The motors do work but longevity is a concern. On one motor that I tried to rebuild, I stripped out both the cover and the motor screws as they were corroded fast to the housing. . I did not want to resort to taking the time to drill out and remove the broken screw pieces. Taking the fast and easy way out I ordered a brand new right side Cardone headlight motor. While it cost $89, the headlight on that side goes up and down so smoothly. Yes the cost is higher than a DIY rebuild, but its replace and done!!!! The Cardone motor looks and fits exactly like the OEM unit. You can paint it black and it will look exactly like the OEM unit.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 09-15-2015).]
Well I went to a junk yard yesterday that was supposed to have a headlight motor for me, I drove over an hour each way and when I got there it was a gen 1 headlight motor that was listed as an 87
Does anyone know how I can hold the brushes down and put the motor back together on my old one? I believe if I can get it back together it might actually work.
I found No one is making brush parts for Gen2 system. Need a new motor.
quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua: I rebuild the gen II motors with the nylon bushings and admittedly this repair technique eliminates the damping action of the motors. They now slam up and down. Those bushings should have been produced in a hard rubber or silicone material. The motors do work but longevity is a concern...
I would get Cardone motors too. I've rebuild GM Gen2 units and found is not a easy as many think. While better than rebuilding first version of HL motors you can still spend hours to rebuild this version. Small things can cause problems or kill them. A few day or years depending on the exact issue. Just Hours cost money to most people one way or others.
Cardone (All have Limited Lifetime Warranty.) New, Left 82-9101H Right 82-9102H AZ $125.99 each (no core)
Rebuild Left 49-101, AZ $84.99 + Core $35.00 Right 49-102, AZ $78.99 + Core $30.00
If you buy online then could have shipping charge 1 or both ways... I think AZ ship to home allows core return to local store. Other parts web stores are similar. AZ online often have sales too, right now... SAVE 20% ON ONLINE SHIP-TO-HOME ORDERS OF $100 OR MORE.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
I have rebuilt the 87-88 at least 3 pairs and new bushings always fixed the problem and never took more than an hour from start to finish. I can't see buying new motors.
For 84-86 I have had the opposite experience... I have put three pair of rebuilt motors on the same car and they keep failing. I would LOVE new motors for the 1st gen.
The left motor needed new bushings. The right motor had an electrical problem in the motor. I replaced it with a unit off of a 92 Firebird. The motor was from the opposit side of the firebird. I opened that one up, lubed it up and dropped it in. Works like a charm.
Turns out I bought 2 spare modules for nothing, I have a couple spares now.
The second gen motors are easy to rebuild, First of all no need to order the bushings, they sell them at all auto parts stores, in the "help" section as "ford window regulator bushings" to hold the brushes down, I use a piece of thread, loop it around the wire on the brushes hold one side with your index finger the other side with your thumb, slide the motor in and pull out the thread.
Again they sell the bushings/pins at every auto parts store, one look and you will see them.
Edit to add part numbers: Dorman 74410
[This message has been edited by sardonyx247 (edited 10-05-2015).]
The motors can be easy to rebuild IF all screws come out without twisting off. If the screws break off, good luck removing them without damaging the housing. Also as I said before, even with a successful fix, most of the dampening action seems to be lost on the rebuild so I am not sure how long the fix will last. It certainly saves money by rebuilding but I would feel a whole lot better if the bushings were made of a slightly softer material.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
