Many of us have replaced the radios in our Fieros with late 90's or early 00's Pontiac (Delco) radios. Sometimes the volume controls on these radios go "crazy". The volume goes up when you try to turn it down, or vice versa, and it can be very annoying. I figured out a very easy fix for this, which is presented below. First, carefully remove the face plate of the radio. The face plate actually has the control part of the radio attached to it. Use a flat screw driver blade to pry up the tabs that hold it in place. Turn the radio bottom side up, and pull the control assembly out a few inches from the rest of the radio. It is attached to the rest of the radio with a flat cable, but there is no need to disconnect it. The volume knob is removed from the radio in the above picture. You can see the control assembly that the shaft goes to. The volume control is not a conventional potentiometer, but a sequencer switch. Spray the switch with WD-40 at the place where the black plastic part of it meets the metal part, as in this picture. But don't hold the WD-40 straw at an angle like the picture. Hold it straight up and down. This close-up shows the place to spray. After you spray, wipe off the excess with a tissue or paper towel. Try turning the volume knob. The clicks it makes as you turn it should be louder than before you sprayed. If they are, the control is fixed. Re-assemble the radio, and put it back in your car. Enjoy a normal volume control.
Ok- this sounds like magic....Wouldn't it be better to use an "ultra-fine adjustment tool"......i.e., a 5 lbs sledge? Can I spray WD40 on th ignition module to make it work again after it takes a crap on me?
I am just pulling your leg...I will try this...But how in heck did you figure this out? And can you come up with a similar fix for the readout that keeps locking up? If you fix that, then I think we can start calling you Merlin....
Originally posted by cvxjet: But how in heck did you figure this out? And can you come up with a similar fix for the readout that keeps locking up? If you fix that, then I think we can start calling you Merlin....
WD-40 is an excellent electrical contact cleaner, and I have been using it to clean contacts for longer than some of you are alive. Remember the old TV sets where you turned a knob that clicked to change channels? And remember that sometimes you had to rock the knob back and forth a little bit once you reached your channel to get a clear picture? Well, spraying WD-40 on the contacts of those switches would clear that up. The Delco radio volume control is just another rotary switch -- although a very small one. So I figured, if it worked back then, why wouldn't it work now? And it does!
I forgot to mention that you just need a tiny shot of WD-40. No need to drench your radio.
I haven't experienced the readout lock-up problem. What are the symptoms?
Originally posted by cvxjet: Can I spray WD40 on th ignition module to make it work again after it takes a crap on me? .
Actually, in a way you may be able to. Sometimes an ignition module acts like it is bad when the real problem is bad contacts. So before you replace it, remove the connectors and spray them with WD-40. Also spray the connectors on the spark coil. I actually did "fix" one that way.
The radio read-out problem; Sometimes it will freeze on the time or the station, and no matter how many times you push the different presets or clock button, it will not change- although sometimes hitting a bump or whacking the side of the console will fix this- not often tho....Mind you, everything else still works- different presets change the station properly, and the clock is still right, when the read-out finally changes.......Just to eliminate the obvious, I have used every french word- and a few russian words, too!- to no avail........maybe if I used japanese- it was, after all, made in Japan....I believe......
Oh, yes, I remember the old TVs- We had a shoe box, and once a year or so we would take all the tubes out of the back of the TV and go to Payless- the tester was in the front, outside of the check-out counters...You'd spin a big roller to find the number of each tube, then plug it in and it would tell you if it was good or bad- there were drawers in the bottom with new tubes....They trusted you to then go around and thru the lane to pay for the tubes you needed......
[This message has been edited by cvxjet (edited 08-20-2015).]
Originally posted by cvxjet: I have used every french word- and a few russian words, too!- to no avail........maybe if I used japanese- it was, after all, made in Japan....I believe......
The two radios I have have tags that say "Made in Mexico". So maybe if you try Spanish....
[This message has been edited by TopNotch (edited 08-20-2015).]
Dang.....I didn't take spanish! I took French- which was a mistake....The only(Real) french I remember now is Wee-wee.....And I'm probably wrong in my memory of what it means; Gotta go to the bathroom, right...? All the french I use on my projects is just made up.....Heck, with their spelling of words I figure I might as well make 'em up.....Chevrolet vs toilet.......!?
Your the man. Best $2.50 ive spent in months. Took 15 mins and im no longer afraid to touch my radio due to the fact it could be super loud stuck on some crappy station. I removed my front face and left the rest of the cd player in the car, being cautious because it was still hooked up, so i didnt have to fight with pulling connectors and what not. Thankyou for this, was about to ship my radio out to have it fixed.
Great info, Pat! I've used contact cleaner for years, but not in a while. Most of it had a kind of a sweet, almost "candy" smell to it. I've used WD40 for lots of other stuff, but didn't know it worked for cleaning contacts as well. Thanks!
Originally posted by TopNotch: WD-40 is an excellent electrical contact cleaner...
Not really. WD-40 and many other oil base lubes may seem to help but often cause problems in the long run. Most attract and hold dirt etc. Many will make plastic brittle and crack up. Some can attack the Resistor... Many are just "paint" or plastic that can be dissolved by the solvent in these products. (Dimmer Knob uses Printed Resistance elements, two black areas on the blue board. See my Cave, Dash Dimmer at bottom.)
So make sure cleaner/lube is safe for the use. ------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Originally posted by TopNotch: WD-40 is an excellent electrical contact cleaner...
quote
Originally posted by theogre:Not really. WD-40 and many other oil base lubes may seem to help but often cause problems in the long run.
Are you speaking from theory or experience? As they say, "Don't knock it till you've tried it". I have a short wave radio that I bought when I was in the Navy (late 60's to early 70's). I sprayed WD-40 on a band switch in it long ago. The radio still works, and nothing melted or was otherwise damaged.
[This message has been edited by TopNotch (edited 08-21-2015).]
[QUOTE]Originally posted by TopNotch: WD-40 is an excellent electrical contact cleaner...
Not really. WD-40 and many other oil base lubes may seem to help but often cause problems in the long run. Most attract and hold dirt etc. Many will make plastic brittle and crack up. Some can attack the Resistor... Many are just "paint" or plastic that can be dissolved by the solvent in these products. (Dimmer Knob uses Printed Resistance elements, two black areas on the blue board. See my Cave, Dash Dimmer at bottom.)
So make sure cleaner/lube is safe for the use.[/QUOTE]
I use Deoxit 5 and have had great results. It is made for electrical contacts. Audiophiles use it on high end audio equipment with no adverse effects. I own Italian cars which seem to have a lot of electrical contact issues- switches and connectors and it works great on them. Expensive but well worth it in my opinion. Bob
------------------ 1965 Buick Gran Sport 1976 Alfa Romeo Spider 1984 Porsche 944 1986 Camaro IROC Z 1987 Pontiac Fiero, Caddy 4.9L V-8 1988 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z 1989 Chrysler Maserati TC SOHC 1989 Chrysler Maserati TC DOHC 1992 Lexus SC400 1997 Ford F350 (support vehicle)
I guess it depends upon the type plastic. I serviced irrigation stations with their huge control panels filled with switching relays. Some relays were encased in plastic similar to the relays in our Fieros. Others were encased in a clear plastic, making internal components visible. For why, I don't know.
Part of my service procedure was to remove every one of the contacts and using Electric Contact Cleaner aerosol, spray the contacts in the socket and the contacts on the base of relay. At times, the contact cleaner would cause the clear cases to slightly melt, leaving them cloudy and my finger prints imprinted in them. We found that over the course of a year or so, that the clear cases actually became brittle and cracked. Pretty much like we see happen to our GT quarter windows.
When we discovered the problem, we changed our procedure to pulling and installing each relay 5 times, hoping the friction would clean the contact surfaces.
In this case, I'd rather take a chance on TopNotch's method than to leave it as is, turn the volume knob and have it blast wide open. It's happened once. Fortunately, I didn't blow all 8 speakers.
That's what we used on the relays. There are two versions of that spray. One has triethane and the other doesn't. I think it's 111trithane. It will also cause aluminum to oxidize.
Well, someone please try the QD Electronic Cleaner and report here if it works. I've already tried the WD-40 on two radios with success, and someone else in a message above tried it with success. Success speaks louder than theory, so someone please try the cleaner. Besides, the switch is already bad, which is why we're trying things in the first place. The only other alternative is ti replace it. So what's the harm in trying something a lot cheaper and easier? (Why are people so eager to poo-poo on a new idea without even trying it?)
[This message has been edited by TopNotch (edited 08-21-2015).]
Well, some one try the QD Electronic Cleaner and report here if it works. I've already tried the WD-40 on two radios with success, and someone else in a message above tried it with success. Success speaks louder than theory, so someone please try the cleaner. Besides, the switch is already bad, which is why we're trying things in the first place. The only other alternative is ti replace it. So what's the harm in trying something a lot cheaper and easier? (Why are people so eager to poo-poo on a new idea without even trying it?)
I have used the CRC and WD40 - neither work as well as the Deoxit 5 by a long shot. Bob
Nearly two months later, and the "fixed" volume control is still working perfectly. And since at least 4 others have tried this with good results, the score is... Actually doing it -- 5. Nay-sayers -- 0.
I will have to try this. I read that it was a digital control in the newer stereo's and it was too expensive to replace, so I just wired in the steering wheel controls. Since the wire reached the center console, my daughter loved changing the cd tracks...
Isn't it strange that after a bombing, everyone blames the bomber, his upbringing, his environment, his culture, his mental state but … after a shooting, the problem is the gun?
I just did this to mine and it worked perfectly, instantly. This is the second radio I have had this problem with, I wish I had tried it with the first one. Thanks for the how to.
Originally posted by TopNotch: Are you speaking from theory or experience? As they say, "Don't knock it till you've tried it". I have a short wave radio that I bought when I was in the Navy (late 60's to early 70's). I sprayed WD-40 on a band switch in it long ago. The radio still works, and nothing melted or was otherwise damaged. ----- Nearly two months later, and the "fixed" volume control is still working perfectly. And since at least 4 others have tried this with good results, the score is... Actually doing it -- 5. Nay-sayers -- 0.
Is Not Theory. This time you and others just got lucky so far. I been fixing Tuners, Volume Knobs, and many others things and I've seen how Oil products, like WD40, can cause problems. You often get by for awhile but when happen again the damage done by wrong cleaner/lube is often permanent.
Related problem is Many spray WD40, CRC 5-56, and other oils in/on plastic brake/clutch pedal bearings. Works for a while but only real fix is to replace the plastic. These bearings are install dry at the factory for several good reasons. #1 the fact that oil hold dirt and dirt will cause binding and wear problems. (the bearing are inside the big pivot for both pedals. Many are Dorman part available at most stores.) #2 Many oil formulas attack plastic parts then the plastic dissolved or gets brittle and fall to pieces.
Many electric cleaners clean but may not lube any or enough for moving parts. Cleaning simple volume knobs doesn't move enough to matter. Most "Tuner Wash" (quick example.) and other cleans and won't hurt plastic. Read the label for exact product. Some leave nothing after but other can.
It is just a theory and I haven't tried it, but I have had more than one late 90s radio with the volume issue and I find it hard to believe this would fix it. Reason is the volume changes all by itself without me touching it. It will typically go from normal to full blast or normal to nothing. From what I know this is the volume control board and lube will not fix it.
Originally posted by jscott1: I haven't tried it t
That's what I find so hard to understand. If it's "broken" and you're planning to replace it anyway, what's the harm in trying it? Especially if the result could save you some bucks?
That's what I find so hard to understand. If it's "broken" and you're planning to replace it anyway, what's the harm in trying it? Especially if the result could save you some bucks?
I never said there was harm in trying it, and I never said I was replacing my radio, I'm just skeptical that it will work. I've bought 3 of these radios and they all developed defective volume controls.
Reading comprehension on this forum is dropping like a rock. It seems every post I've made lately someone claims that I said something that was never said.
[This message has been edited by jscott1 (edited 10-15-2015).]
I did this same procedure a couple months ago, worked like a charm. No ill effects to report yet. Only side effect is a working volume control. I no longer have to close one eye in anticipation of my radio "going off" unexpectedly.
I tried it on one of mine and if it eventually damages it, I'll just go to my cabinet and pull out another that I can get at pullapart all day for under $20.
Originally posted by jscott1: It is just a theory and I haven't tried it, but I have had more than one late 90s radio with the volume issue and I find it hard to believe this would fix it. Reason is the volume changes all by itself without me touching it. It will typically go from normal to full blast or normal to nothing. From what I know this is the volume control board and lube will not fix it.
You can try cleaning/lube... might help or not depending on exact issue.
A big problem is many old "radios," GM/Delphi and others, have problems because are made cheap. They hope will last past any warranties. Two examples: They often have "cold" solder joints. "Wave machine" set a bit cold or hand joint made too fast will cause this. Electrolyte caps that can "dry out" and die. Newer models could have bad caps right from the factory, same as Many PC's.
Car heat can kill them over time too. A parked can can reach 160°F and more very easy and why people/animals die in parked cars. Electronics have two Temps... Storage (unit/part is full off) and Run temps. Storage is higher then run but both are under 200°F for commercial uses. Typical run < 170°F, store < 190°F and both are max values. To run a long time many parts want <120°F run <160°F store. (These temps measures at the case of the part.)
I tried it on one of mine and if it eventually damages it, I'll just go to my cabinet and pull out another that I can get at pullapart all day for under $20.
Which pullapart has working Delco radios all day for under $20? Seriously, I find it nearly impossible to find a working one, working cassette with DVD controls especially.
Electrolyte caps that can "dry out" and die. Newer models could have bad caps right from the factory, same as Many PC's.
Bad Caps, the scourge of the 80s...virtually everything electronic made in the 80s is dead by now. It's a miracle we haven't had more issues with Fiero ECMs. For some mysterious reason GM must have used higher than normal quality parts in the ECM..
Which pullapart has working Delco radios all day for under $20? Seriously, I find it nearly impossible to find a working one, working cassette with DVD controls especially.
I bought 3 with CD and 2 with cassette, all with 6 buttons, 1 AM and 2 FM presets, and equalizers and paid $16 each.
Thanks for the link, but unfortunately there isn't one within 4 hours drive of Houston. How many of those radios have working cassette and theftloc not activated? All the ones I have are in need of repair. Why aren't you selling these in the mall?
[This message has been edited by jscott1 (edited 10-20-2015).]
Thanks for the link, but unfortunately there isn't one within 4 hours drive of Houston. How many of those radios have working cassette and theftloc not activated? All the ones I have are in need of repair. Why aren't you selling these in the mall?
They all work. Missing volume knobs is the usual shortcoming. I can disable the theftloc feature. I put 1 into my 87GT, 1 into my 86SE and 1 into the Georgia Fieros courtesy car. I did sell 1 to a club member and I still have 1 on the shelf. Sell them in The Mall? Now that I've disclosed my purchase price, I'd get beaten to death if I asked more than $30 to include shipping.
They all work. Missing volume knobs is the usual shortcoming. I can disable the theftloc feature. I put 1 into my 87GT, 1 into my 86SE and 1 into the Georgia Fieros courtesy car. I did sell 1 to a club member and I still have 1 on the shelf. Sell them in The Mall? Now that I've disclosed my purchase price, I'd get beaten to death if I asked more than $30 to include shipping.
Okay...wait a couple of weeks and we will all forget.
