Simple question. What is the correct torque for those tamper proof torx screws on the Fuel Pressure Regulator in a V6 Fiero? My Haynes manual says 88 in lbs, and so does the "How-to" page at Autozone.com, but the little paper that came in the box with the new regulator says 15 in lbs. I decided to trust the Haynes, torqued them all to 20 in lbs, then tried to go to 50, but thought to myself, "That seems awfully tight," just as the tip of my driver broke off in the screw (I got it out with a magnet). I'd like to put my car back together! Can anyone tell me for sure? Maybe 88 in lbs is right and the driver tip I was using is crap. But I DON'T want to strip the aluminum fuel rail!
I gotta suspect you're quite young and/or inexperienced at working on cars/engines. Tightening stuff like that is usually done without the need for a torque-wrench. Those aren't head bolts or wheel lugs you're snugging down! For something like screws that attach a fuel pressure regulator, the tightness you can accomplish comfortably with a screw-driver type handle is plenty... especially into aluminum.
With whatever you choose to use a torque-wrench on, I hope you're not getting confused between inch pounds and foot pounds.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-24-2015).]
Actually, I'm 42, and I've been working on Fieros for 20+ years. And I know what I am talking about. I'm talking about the six tiny T-10 screws that attack the fuel pressure regulator cover to the aluminum fuel rail. If you want to "snug those down" by feel, good luck. I'll use my in lbs (not ft lbs) torque wrench. But thanks for the advice. Can anyone else tell me the correct torque spec?
Actually, I'm 42, and I've been working on Fieros for 20+ years. And I know what I am talking about. I'm talking about the six tiny T-10 screws that attack the fuel pressure regulator cover to the aluminum fuel rail. If you want to "snug those down" by feel, good luck. I'll use my in lbs (not ft lbs) torque wrench.
Okay, I'm willing to learn something I may not be familiar with. Why is it important for those particular screws to be torqued to spec?
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-24-2015).]
I would trust the specs that came with the new regulator. There have been a lot of mistakes in the Haynes and Chilton manuals and there may have been changes in the new regulator also.
The next time you're going to tell someone you don't know who may in fact be older and more experienced than you that they don't know what they are talking about, you might want to find out what they are talking about. Otherwise, you just end up looking foolish.
I may be a bit old fashioned, but I'm not a big fan of fuel leaks in the engine compartment.
I'm considerably older than you (and probably more "old-fashioned"), but it wouldn't even occur to me to bother using a torque wrench on screws such as those.
I trust my judgement, but I suppose almost 50 years of pulling wrenches gives me that right.
The next time you're going to tell someone you don't know who may in fact be older and more experienced than you that they don't know what they are talking about, you might want to find out what they are talking about. Otherwise, you just end up looking foolish.
Maybe someone who hasn't got a chip on their shoulder can answer my question. I'd really like to know how critical it is for a torque-wrench to be used on fuel pressure regular screws. Thanks.
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Originally posted by Patrick:
Why is it important for those particular screws to be torqued to spec?
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-24-2015).]
To answer your question, on the Fiero (and the 3.4 F bodies) the fuel regulator isn't a sealed unit. A new regulator really consists of a new diaphragm and spring. The diaphragm is then sandwiched between the fuel rail and the upper metal shell. It needs to be torched to spec in the correct cross-cross pattern for the same reason a valve cover or oil pan does--to prevent the mating surfaces from warping and creating leaks.
Insults? Oh man... you've got insecurity issues if you think I've been trying to "insult" you.
In all the years I've been on this forum, I don't recall anyone ever asking what the torque needs to be for fuel pressure regulator screws. Therefore, your first post appeared to me to be from someone with limited mechanical experience who perhaps was going overboard being careful. It's not unusual for us to get questions here from 14 or 15 year old kids who are working on their first car prior to getting their driver's license.
I wasn't insulting you. I don't know anything about you! Good gawd, one might think from your reaction that I was watching you work on a car for several hours before suggesting you might be new at this. Don't be so super-sensitive!
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-24-2015).]
To answer your question, on the Fiero (and the 3.4 F bodies) the fuel regulator isn't a sealed unit. A new regulator really consists of a new diaphragm and spring. The diaphragm is then sandwiched between the fuel rail and the upper metal shell. It needs to be torched to spec in the correct cross-cross pattern for the same reason a valve cover or oil pan does--to prevent the mating surfaces from warping and creating leaks.
Seems to me that the "cross-cross pattern" is more critical than an actual torque spec, but I'm definitely not an authority on fuel pressure regulator diaphragms. Thanks for your response.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-24-2015).]
The next time you're going to tell someone you don't know who may in fact be older and more experienced than you that they don't know what they are talking about, you might want to find out what they are talking about. Otherwise, you just end up looking foolish.
Yellow_Formula..........# of posts....7 (after arguing for a bit...)
Patrick.......................# of posts....21,900+
1. Don't trust Haynes and Chilton. Both a full of errors, missing data, etc. I don't trust them for decades. 1a. Parts stores publish data from whatever. Many things there are useless. 2. If you can't get GM and others Service Manuals... Get Alldata. They get data directly from GM and other car makers. Original AllData is for Pro use, came on Many CD (later DVD) and use Rainbow Dongle for anti copy etc. GM SM have errors etc too. Many TSB are updates to SM.
Alldata:
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1987 Pontiac Fiero V6-173 2.8L
Fuel Pressure Regulator: Service and Repair 1. Remove plenum and fuel rail assembly. 2. Remove fuel inlet and outlet fittings from pressure regulator. Remove and discard gaskets from fittings. 3. Remove pressure regulator bracket attaching screws and the bracket. 4. Remove left and righthand fuel rail assemblies from pressure regulator. 5. Remove base-to-rail connectors from pressure regulator. 6. Reverse procedure to install. Torque attaching screws to 28 inch lbs. and fuel fittings to 20 ft. lbs.
This is all they have there. I DON"T KNOW if above screws are same ones. GM FSM has nothing I can find right now. I think Above is entire regulator, not the cover and diaphragm.
New part can w/ directions then use them. Many parts need different specs.
Most but not all Torque specs are for CLEAN DRY Threads. Dirt, Lube, anti-seize, etc, will void publish torque specs and torque to spec can break things.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)