One of the injector fuses also supplies 12V to the EGR solenoid. If it shorts, it'll take out the fuse. Unplug your EGR solenoid and see if the fuse gets happy.
------------------ Raydar 88 Formula IMSA Fastback. 4.9, NVG T550
If I unplug the egr solenoid, wouldn't the car run rough when hot? Son also says that when hot as soon as u start the car it blows the injector 2 fuse immediately. Tonight was the first time it blew both injector fuses at the same time. Son also says it seems to blow the injector 2 fuse if he gets on it and reva over 3000 rpm. This is a new issue so I'm just going to try and narrow down the symptoms on Friday when I'm off.
Will try unplugging the the solenoid but any other ideas would be great.
This is a bit beyond my area of expertise, but you'll probably want to check that none of the injectors (and/or the injector harnesses) are suffering from dead shorts.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 05-07-2015).]
Wouldn't know how to go about doing that test. I'm just going to look for any bare wires touching the metal but also going to unplug the solenoid and see it that makes thing better.
So after testing, I noticed the car fine when cold, blows injector 1 fuse when warmed up. Unplugging the egr solenoid didn't change anything. When I put a new fuse in, car still runs horrible and it does not blow the fuse right away. Only when I rev it up. I can pull the fuse out and it's not blown. Car just runs on 3 cylinders. When I put the fuse in, it will blow it after about 30 seconds.
If it was worn or pinched wouldn't it blow the fuse right away. Car runs good when cold. I've gone along the harness and not found anything. Could the ecm be at fault?
If its a bad contact point randomly jumping a spark not necessarily. Could even be a loose connector as it gets warm and expands connection gets worse.
The only contacts points I can find are at the injector harness and then it runs back to the ecm. I've looked at them untily eyes hurt. I don't see any burn marks from a arc. All plugins are tight. See why I'm so confused.
The Pink wires from the injector harness run through c203 pins J and K under the ECM behind the center console to the fuse box. Injector 2 is pin K. Finding a short or an intermittent connection is a time consuming job.
Just keep in mind, if you replaace the wire from 203 to the injector harness the problem could still be before or after your repair. The injector harness under the manifold deals with a lot of heat and is one of the most likely places a wire could fail.
Ya, kind of.....i would disconnect the injector harness, connect an ohm meter to ground and the pink wires on the injector side, then wiggle and tug the harness and watch for the ohm meter numbers to jump, repeat with the other side of the harness.
You just set the meter to resistance (ohms) or continuity. Your looking to see if there is ever any connection(continuity) from the pink wires to ground. Any movement of the needle, or numbers would show continuity, if it goes all the way to 0 (no resistance) that is the worst case.