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injector 2 fuse keeps blowing by medicman
Started on: 05-06-2015 09:12 PM
Replies: 20 (325 views)
Last post by: Mike Gonzalez on 05-08-2015 05:35 PM
medicman
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Report this Post05-06-2015 09:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for medicmanSend a Private Message to medicmanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
2.8 fiero started to blow injector 2 fuse when hot now its blowing injector 1 and 2 fuse when hot. any suggestions

Thx,

[This message has been edited by medicman (edited 05-06-2015).]

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Raydar
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Report this Post05-06-2015 09:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
One of the injector fuses also supplies 12V to the EGR solenoid. If it shorts, it'll take out the fuse.
Unplug your EGR solenoid and see if the fuse gets happy.

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medicman
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Report this Post05-06-2015 09:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for medicmanSend a Private Message to medicmanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
my son just came home with the car and ive edited my post to give the symptoms its doing now. ugh.
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Patrick
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Report this Post05-06-2015 09:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Raydar:

One of the injector fuses also supplies 12V to the EGR solenoid. If it shorts, it'll take out the fuse.


I wasn't aware of that. Good to know!
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medicman
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Report this Post05-06-2015 09:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for medicmanSend a Private Message to medicmanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If I unplug the egr solenoid, wouldn't the car run rough when hot? Son also says that when hot as soon as u start the car it blows the injector 2 fuse immediately. Tonight was the first time it blew both injector fuses at the same time. Son also says it seems to blow the injector 2 fuse if he gets on it and reva over 3000 rpm. This is a new issue so I'm just going to try and narrow down the symptoms on Friday when I'm off.

Will try unplugging the the solenoid but any other ideas would be great.

Thx.
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Patrick
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Report this Post05-07-2015 06:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
This is a bit beyond my area of expertise, but you'll probably want to check that none of the injectors (and/or the injector harnesses) are suffering from dead shorts.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 05-07-2015).]

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medicman
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Report this Post05-08-2015 08:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for medicmanSend a Private Message to medicmanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Wouldn't know how to go about doing that test. I'm just going to look for any bare wires touching the metal but also going to unplug the solenoid and see it that makes thing better.
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medicman
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Report this Post05-08-2015 12:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for medicmanSend a Private Message to medicmanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

medicman

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So after testing, I noticed the car fine when cold, blows injector 1 fuse when warmed up. Unplugging the egr solenoid didn't change anything. When I put a new fuse in, car still runs horrible and it does not blow the fuse right away. Only when I rev it up. I can pull the fuse out and it's not blown. Car just runs on 3 cylinders. When I put the fuse in, it will blow it after about 30 seconds.

Any thoughts?
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Mike Gonzalez
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Report this Post05-08-2015 12:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mike GonzalezSend a Private Message to Mike GonzalezEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Sounds like a possible short in the line. Look for pinched/worn wires in the injector harness.
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medicman
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Report this Post05-08-2015 01:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for medicmanSend a Private Message to medicmanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If it was worn or pinched wouldn't it blow the fuse right away. Car runs good when cold. I've gone along the harness and not found anything. Could the ecm be at fault?
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Mike Gonzalez
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Report this Post05-08-2015 01:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mike GonzalezSend a Private Message to Mike GonzalezEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If its a bad contact point randomly jumping a spark not necessarily. Could even be a loose connector as it gets warm and expands connection gets worse.
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medicman
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Report this Post05-08-2015 02:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for medicmanSend a Private Message to medicmanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The only contacts points I can find are at the injector harness and then it runs back to the ecm. I've looked at them untily eyes hurt. I don't see any burn marks from a arc. All plugins are tight. See why I'm so confused.

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Mike Gonzalez
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Report this Post05-08-2015 02:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mike GonzalezSend a Private Message to Mike GonzalezEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The Pink wires from the injector harness run through c203 pins J and K under the ECM behind the center console to the fuse box. Injector 2 is pin K. Finding a short or an intermittent connection is a time consuming job.
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medicman
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Report this Post05-08-2015 02:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for medicmanSend a Private Message to medicmanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Could I just run a new wire?
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Mike Gonzalez
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Report this Post05-08-2015 03:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mike GonzalezSend a Private Message to Mike GonzalezEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Ya, thats an option
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medicman
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Report this Post05-08-2015 04:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for medicmanSend a Private Message to medicmanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Well that's what I will do. Running out of options. Just hope it's not the ecm. No way to test that?
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Mike Gonzalez
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Report this Post05-08-2015 04:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mike GonzalezSend a Private Message to Mike GonzalezEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The ECM wouldnt cause that to happen.

Just keep in mind, if you replaace the wire from 203 to the injector harness the problem could still be before or after your repair. The injector harness under the manifold deals with a lot of heat and is one of the most likely places a wire could fail.
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medicman
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Report this Post05-08-2015 04:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for medicmanSend a Private Message to medicmanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So basically I would have to change all the wires to the injectors to be sure.
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Mike Gonzalez
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Report this Post05-08-2015 05:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mike GonzalezSend a Private Message to Mike GonzalezEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Ya, kind of.....i would disconnect the injector harness, connect an ohm meter to ground and the pink wires on the injector side, then wiggle and tug the harness and watch for the ohm meter numbers to jump, repeat with the other side of the harness.
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medicman
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Report this Post05-08-2015 05:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for medicmanSend a Private Message to medicmanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
What values am I looking for?
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Mike Gonzalez
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Report this Post05-08-2015 05:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mike GonzalezSend a Private Message to Mike GonzalezEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You just set the meter to resistance (ohms) or continuity. Your looking to see if there is ever any connection(continuity) from the pink wires to ground. Any movement of the needle, or numbers would show continuity, if it goes all the way to 0 (no resistance) that is the worst case.
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