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borked headlight motors? by tshark
Started on: 03-17-2015 07:07 AM
Replies: 16 (351 views)
Last post by: fierofool on 03-20-2015 08:16 AM
tshark
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Report this Post03-17-2015 07:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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[This message has been edited by tshark (edited 09-08-2018).]

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Gall757
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Report this Post03-17-2015 08:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Do you have the first design headlights?....84-86?
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tshark
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Report this Post03-17-2015 09:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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[This message has been edited by tshark (edited 09-08-2018).]

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theogre
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Report this Post03-17-2015 11:14 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Gen 2 motors and module should not care when door are stuck.
The module should shut down power when the motor doesn't turn for any reason.

Could be the motors are binding and the doors add more load to the binding motor in the module is trying to do its job and killing the power to the binding motor.
Could be module is dieing.

carefully lubing the gear, output shaft, and adjustment screw may help. (make sure gear lube is safe for plastic!)
Adjustment screw adjust a small BB and if lost you it will have problems. Do Not "preload" the bearing! Motor shaft will have tiny bit of play when you pull up and push down the the knob.

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Report this Post03-17-2015 11:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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[This message has been edited by tshark (edited 09-08-2018).]

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seajai
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Report this Post03-17-2015 12:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for seajaiSend a Private Message to seajaiEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by tshark:

Where is the module?


Inside the LF fender. Remove the plastic wheel well liner to access.

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tshark
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Report this Post03-17-2015 01:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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[This message has been edited by tshark (edited 09-08-2018).]

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Report this Post03-17-2015 07:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

tshark

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[This message has been edited by tshark (edited 09-08-2018).]

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Gall757
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Report this Post03-17-2015 07:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by tshark:

Well, I found several things.
1. Something is catching on my headlights when they are opening. There is a loud ”pop!” sound.
2. The replacement bolts are too long, and the arm catches on one. WTF!


Borked indeed......
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Report this Post03-17-2015 10:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by tshark:
Hmmm. Better get another module. Any way to test if it's bad?

Ahhhhhh! $600!!! Who thought that up?

Many are jacking up prices for old cars. Old prices was $150-200.

Testing? No really anything. Sorry. Just nook up one or two good motors.
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Report this Post03-17-2015 10:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Rsvl-RiderSend a Private Message to Rsvl-RiderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yeah, I could not believe the $599 price at the Fiero Store.

You can usually find them on ebay. I sold one several months ago for about $60 and I have seen many go for less than $100. Probably most are untested.
Get one with a return option and test it in your car. If it doesn't work you're usually only out the return shipping cost.


 
quote
Originally posted by tshark:

Hmmm. Better get another module. Any way to test if it's bad?

Ahhhhhh! $600!!! Who thought that up?



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Report this Post03-18-2015 07:09 AM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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[This message has been edited by tshark (edited 09-08-2018).]

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Report this Post03-18-2015 10:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by tshark:
In the meantime, I don't understand why one side behaves differently from the other. If I turn by hand, the module shouldn't be involved. I get the same behavior. How is the arm supposed to be installed?

The headlights are catching on something when the hood is closed.

Module is basically 2 modules and one side does not know the other side is doing or having problems.
Is very possible the module is seeing both motors having problem but killing power because binding a motor happens at odd times out side normal end of travel.

You have lift assembly out...
4 slotted holes on "firewall" set wrong could do this. Making the lift hitting hood, door or whatever.
Bad Doors and door adjustment can cause binding on the lift, hood, or both.
Missing/damage Door parts could bind the lift assembly.

Lift should hit only the door and only max at 4 points.
1. Door "bearing" plastic hit the lift at 2 points on the bucket.
2. The HL Trim may hit the door only when the lift is full open. Two spot at front top of trim.
Any other contact then can cause binding opening closing or both, often at different points.

In this picture, the right "backup bearing" hits the door. You care see ~1" of door rubs on the spot. Area is cleaner then rest of door.

The lift open and close then arm on motor etc is ok. Linkage is made to be fairly id10t proof.
If motor mount bolts are wrong could hit the Linkage

Motor adjustment screw should little play. If you can easily see big play then likely too loose.
Treat them as 84-87 front wheel bearings... BB wants no preload and feel loose but easy to have too much play.
When wheel is on, the wheel is big and could see play at tire but close to center very hard to see. The motor knob is looking at center, like looking at lug nuts.

Too much play and motor brushes could have problem. One direction brushed are fine other because Knob end can't adjust. Other direction the motor shaft screws in and could be trouble, maybe even damage the brushes.

getting the play correct is important. The motor case etc grows/shrinks at different rates for heat in summer and cold in winter plus heat from radiator. (Car color and where you park can help or hurt here.) Sadly GM didn't publish any data. You have to hope you got it right.
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tshark
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Report this Post03-18-2015 11:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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Report this Post03-18-2015 12:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Borked, I havent heard that one before

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tshark
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Report this Post03-19-2015 07:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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[This message has been edited by tshark (edited 09-08-2018).]

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fierofool
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Report this Post03-20-2015 08:16 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by tshark:

The motors have no play. Something is catching.

Where is this other module?


You've found the solution but to answer your question about the second module. They are both within the same solid state unit.

Anytime you're around a parts car, grab the teflon strips that Ogre points out in his illustration above. I have actually seen one car where the strips had worn through and allowed the headlight mechanism to rub a hole through the cover.

[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 03-20-2015).]

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