Hi guys, trying to get the '86 2.5 back on the road after quite some time and am down to replacing the slave cylinder for the clutch. I can get it off, but when it comes to removing the hydrolic line I have never encountered anything like this hook up before. How do I get the hose off without damaging it? I really am tired of walking no matter HOW good it is for me! Thanks for the advice in advance!
I have the same car and had went through it this summer past. I got Rodneys slave cylinder and I couldn't get the hose off either. I used the propane torch and a little pressure it came off. I then jacked the front up and I gravity bled the system and there was no turning back.
Okay thanks Patrick. I was hoping it was just that, but just wanted to make sure before I started wrenching on it that it wasn't some wierd backwards threaded Fiero thing.
... just wanted to make sure before I started wrenching on it that it wasn't some wierd backwards threaded Fiero thing.
Without going outside and looking at mine, I couldn't remember off-hand what the actual end of the hose looks like (in regards to where a wrench would go), but yeah, it's just a regular threaded fitting.
I heated the slave cylinder where the hose screws in so I didn't ruin the hose and I used the hose again and it's the normal off. You don't need a lot of heat, better if you drained the fluid out of the cylinder.
That is how I done it, I had it all given up to have to replace the whole line, but it worked.
Inside the braided section is a plastic hose so be careful how much heat you apply.
Many get my clutch line repair section for this same reason. The clutch line fitting gets so rusted in the slave that it is near impossible to get it out.
------------------ Rodney Dickman
Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page: All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories 7604 Treeview Drive Caledonia, WI 53108 Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575
And it's easier to disconnect the line if the slave is still attached to the mounting bracket. It gives more solid resistance than trying to hold the slave in one hand and wrench with the other, especially when it doesn't want to turn loose. The nut is a standard right hand thread. Try to hold the metal end of the line to keep it from twisting. Sometimes it wants to turn with the nut and you can break the line. In that case, again refer to the above named Rodney for a repair line.
Again what worked for me was a little heat on the cylinder where the line threads not the line at all and only small bit and just a little push it came lose right easy. You can put a wet rag around the line right to the cylinder if you want and that will absorb any heat that the line might get.
Make sure you're turning it the proper way! When I'm working upside down on a bolt, I have to constantly check myself to make sure I'm turning it in the proper direction.
PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench helps, too - when I had to get the slave cylinder out of the Coupe, I removed it from the mounting bracket and allowed it to hang upside down from the flexible line, spraying PB Blaster onto the rusted fitting on the underside of the cylinder so it puddled around it as much as possible and let it sit for a few days, reapplying it twice a day.
Once I was ready to remove it, I remounted the cylinder to the bracket tightly so I could get some good leverage on it and it came free with no damage.
Not sure if you have that sort of time, but that's what worked for me!
------------------ Patrick W. Heinske -- LZeitgeist@aol.com
1988 Fiero Formula - Automoda convertible repainted PPG Ferrari 'Giallo Modena' yellow 1988 Fiero 4-cyl Coupe - Dad's car, the Indy 'clone' BACK ON THE ROAD! (after a 6 year rest)
Make sure you're turning it the proper way! When I'm working upside down on a bolt, I have to constantly check myself to make sure I'm turning it in the proper direction.
PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench helps, too - when I had to get the slave cylinder out of the Coupe, I removed it from the mounting bracket and allowed it to hang upside down from the flexible line, spraying PB Blaster onto the rusted fitting on the underside of the cylinder so it puddled around it as much as possible and let it sit for a few days, reapplying it twice a day.
Once I was ready to remove it, I remounted the cylinder to the bracket tightly so I could get some good leverage on it and it came free with no damage.
Not sure if you have that sort of time, but that's what worked for me!
One thing most people don't remember to mention when using PB blaster and that's all I ever use anymore is that in the directions for use it tells you after spraying to tap the fitting with a small hammer lightly, don't use a 4 lb. hand sledge, . The vibration helps to get the PB blaster into the fitting, and as said above let it set and if it doesn't come loose try spraying it again and tapping it after again, repeatedly over a few days has worked for me on a lot of frozen fittings, like bleeder screws for brake cylinders.
Good luck.
Steve
------------------ Technology is great when it works, and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't
Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.
[This message has been edited by 84fiero123 (edited 11-12-2014).]
let it set and if it doesn't come loose try spraying it again and tapping it after again, repeatedly over a few days has worked for me on a lot of frozen fittings, like bleeder screws for brake cylinders.
Steve
This is excellent advice and a few times in my life I have actually done this and it significantly improves your chances of getting a rusty bolt out. Problem is many times we all want that bolt to come out like right now and loose our patience. Myself included. Can't leave it sit and soak but can always find the time to drill it out and re-tap it etc after you break it off.
For me it was if I knew I had to repair something I sprayed it with penetrating oil a few times in the days before and the bolts came out really well. Problem is remembering to do that which I seldom did.
------------------ Rodney Dickman
Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page: All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories 7604 Treeview Drive Caledonia, WI 53108 Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575
Originally posted by Rodney: This is excellent advice and a few times in my life I have actually done this and it significantly improves your chances of getting a rusty bolt out. Problem is many times we all want that bolt to come out like right now and loose our patience. Myself included. Can't leave it sit and soak but can always find the time to drill it out and re-tap it etc after you break it off.
For me it was if I knew I had to repair something I sprayed it with penetrating oil a few times in the days before and the bolts came out really well. Problem is remembering to do that which I seldom did.
Welcome to the club I think we have all been there done that at one time or other that's why I keep a DD so I can take my time on any car I have to fix, actually we have 3 cars registered year round that way if one needs work we have an extra vehicle to drive when one is down. Although the other vehicles are trucks because this is a farm and I know not everyone has the money or extra vehicles when one brakes down but that has saved me more than once when one brakes down and the wife is gone with her truck and I need to go get parts. But a little patients and liberal amount of PB blaster can save money on new parts and time sometimes anyways !
Steve
[This message has been edited by 84fiero123 (edited 11-12-2014).]
But a little patients and liberal amount of PB blaster can save money on new parts and time sometimes anyways !
Steve
Also many skinned knuckles.
------------------ Rodney Dickman
Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page: All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories 7604 Treeview Drive Caledonia, WI 53108 Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575
Thanks everyone! Used the lubricant, got a line wrench and ....... came right off! Should be driving again today! Well, after I go through the bleeding process again....and again..... lol. Really though you guys are a treasure trove of knowledge!
Now that you have it loose, it's really easy to bleed the system. It only takes about 1 pump to empty the master cylinder reservoir on your first couple of pumps.
Remove the cap from the MC, remove the rubber seal and fill the MC. Replace the MC cap loosely. Now, tilt the pushrod end of the slave downward and open the bleeder. Depress the pushrod, close the bleeder and release the pushrod slowly. This will pull fluid through the system. Leave the pushrod of the slave pointing downward while you refill the MC reservoir. Repeat. That should have removed all the air from the system and it doesn't break up air bubbles the way pumping the pedal will do.
Now, install the slave onto it's bracket, add or remove fluid from the MC to adjust to the correct level, replace the rubber seal and cap.
. The vibration helps to get the PB blaster into the fitting, and as said above let it set and if it doesn't come loose try spraying it again and tapping it after again, repeatedly over a few days has worked for me on a lot of frozen fittings, like bleeder screws for brake cylinders. 
Can't leave it sit and soak but can always find the time to drill it out and re-tap it etc after you break it off. 
I think we have all been there done that at one time or other that's why I keep a DD so I can take my time on any car I have to fix, actually we have 3 cars registered year round that way if one needs work we have an extra vehicle to drive when one is down. Although the other vehicles are trucks because this is a farm and I know not everyone has the money or extra vehicles when one brakes down but that has saved me more than once when one brakes down and the wife is gone with her truck and I need to go get parts. But a little patients and liberal amount of PB blaster can save money on new parts and time sometimes anyways ! 
