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3800 oil pan gasket replacement by gtoformula
Started on: 10-14-2014 01:40 PM
Replies: 4 (1050 views)
Last post by: cmechmann on 10-14-2014 08:17 PM
gtoformula
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From: Double Oak, TX USA
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Report this Post10-14-2014 01:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gtoformulaSend a Private Message to gtoformulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Vehicle specs. 1986 GT with 3800 SC series II from a 1998 Regal. Getrag 5 spd.
I change out the transmission mounts using ccriders lowering mounts. Really helped with the launch issues I was experiencing. Prior to replacing the mounts I asked for suggestions as to how I should raise the engine/transmission to take the weight off the mounts. Most of the responses were to place a sheet of plywood between the oil pan and floor jack. Worked great for replacing the mounts, but my previously dry oil pan has developed an increasingly active oil leak ever since. I went onto the GM Service information site and the lengthy step by step instruction included using special tool j 28467-b. Two problems with this as Kent Moore wants over $700 for their tool ... ain't gonna happen. The other issue is that the tool fits over the strut mounts and they don't align over the engine.
Looking for suggestions. The passenger side engine mount covers several of the oil pan bolts and I don't see a method to remove the pan without removing the mount. Has anyone replaced a pan gasket with the engine in the car? I still have the dog bone mount at the right side by the trunk area as I have a lower mount alternator. It may be possible to position a metal bracket between the strut mounts that will attach to the dog bone mount bolt, but that seems like a lot of effort and time to do this repair. I guess nothing is simple with Fiero repairs ... especially with a swap. I do enjoy wrenching on this thing ... just not too much.
Any ideas guys?
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Lou6t4gto
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Report this Post10-14-2014 04:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Lou6t4gtoSend a Private Message to Lou6t4gtoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
couldn't you just ' hang ' the engine, remove the mount and remove the pan? I reused the gasket (using some rtv on both sides), no leaks
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MstangsBware
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Report this Post10-14-2014 06:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MstangsBwareSend a Private Message to MstangsBwareEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If u have a cherry picker then use it to hold the motor up. I did this job a while back but on an auto...The engine mount has to come off for sure for those front bolts and trust me I tried every way possible to not have to. When u go back on with new gasket use a coat of black RTV around the gaskets. Oil pan gaskets on the 3800 are known for leaking..
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gtoformula
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Report this Post10-14-2014 06:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gtoformulaSend a Private Message to gtoformulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Lou6t4gto - I assume that you mean to use a cherry picker as Stephen suggested in his reply. That might be my best way to get this done and a neighbor has a cherry picker that I think he'll let me borrow. As far as an attachment point I may remove the dog bone at the engine, put the dog bone bolt back in the bracket on the engine and use that to attach the hoist hook. It didn't appear that there was a simple way to accomplish this, but good to have the feedback. At least I don't have to pull the motor like on my 400 V8 Pontiacs. That's a real PITA.
Thanks for the input guys.
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cmechmann
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Report this Post10-14-2014 08:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cmechmannSend a Private Message to cmechmannEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Not sure if your swap aligns in the cradle the way mine does. 1998 Series II in a 1985 GT with 4T60E.
However if you are not going to change the level of the engine while you remove the oil pan. You can shim wood under the harmonic balancer. than unbolt the front engine mount from the engine and then from the cradle. The balancer should overhang the cradle just far enough. That way you don't move the engine. Important that you shim up the balancer enough that the engine does not move down any. Pull oil pan, replace gasket and oil pan, reinstall mount, remove shims.

I wouldn't recondmend supporting the engine this way except for an oil pan. Anything else, support the engine. Don't want to be moving anything around putting undo pressure on the balancer.

I made my own mount brackets. Recently went from a series 1 SC to series 2 SC. The only mount I had to rework, was the passenger rear (dogboneless 4 point) transmission mount. My balancer is around 3/4" off the cradle. I have around 5/8" room to work with to get to all the oil pan bolts.
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