it doesn't seem too hard to do.
ive read here and there that 1 coil and no more from a stock spring chopped would be okay.
but then again lowering springs would be the proper way to lower everything.

opinions from people who have lowering springs and chopped stock springs would be appreciated.

I removed one coil from the front and rear on a '86 se. That brought in down to my liking. The ride is not harsh

[This message has been edited by notwohorns (edited 09-05-2014).]

I put Eibach lowering springs on mine and I'm really happy with it. Brought it down just enough to close up the gap between the tires and the wheel wells. Ride is a bit stiffer but solid.

86 GT, I cut 1 1\2 front ant rear. It is low and I like it. I don't drive mine ever day. If it was a driver I would say only 1 coil. But mine sits awesome.

1/2 coil rear and 1 coil front is what I cut on my springs.

Bag it.

Hey racingfortheson, where did you get that passenger side quarter scoop? I like

also....

This is probably a dumb question, but when cutting the spring do you cut off the top or bottom of the springs?

[This message has been edited by Ponnari (edited 09-05-2014).]

Stock springs with 1 coil removed are normally only about 15% stiffer than stock and most will not notice the rate increase.
Lowering springs tend to be significantly stiffer than stock (50% to 200%) and tend to ride firmer.

Regardless of method, trim the bump stops to increase the available range of suspension travel... this is the key to having a decent ride over most bumps.
The stock Fiero front suspensions hit the bump stops with about 1" to 1 1/2" of gap between the tire and fender (stock diameter tires - about 24.6"). So if you lower your car and only have about that much fender clearance, you likely are sitting on the bump stops and the ride will be very bouncy.

Here is an 84-87 sitting on its bump stops with a 215/60/15 tire:


Here is an 88 hitting its bump stops with 205/50/16 tire:

The end that isn't shaped. BTW, Knight Rider has it correct.

someone asked earlier if they should cut the tops or the bottoms of the springs, I feel this may be very important.
on top of not using a cutting torch or trying to bend the cut end flat, like stock.

also, I have never had an excuse to remove the front subframe or anything of the sort, so I would like to know
how one goes about getting to the springs. just off the top of my head, it would make sense to just pop the upper and lower ball joint out of the spindle and remove the spindle to get to the spring if the front end is jacked up.

quote Originally posted by Ponnari: This is probably a dumb question, but when cutting the spring do you cut off the top or bottom of the springs?

For the Front Springs:
The 84-87 front springs are slightly tapered (about 1/4" smaller at the top) and the lower a-arm has a nice recessed pocket for the cut edge of the spring. So cut the bottom and line up the cut end with the recessed pocket.
The 88 front springs are uniform diameter and both ends are the same, so cut either end, just make sure to install the cut end facing down and make sure the cut end fits in the recessed pocket.

For the Rears:
All years use tapered springs with the bottom being much, much smaller OD than the tops. If you cut the bottom, it won't properly seat on the small spring perch onthe strut, but the taper doesn't change much for the first coil or two at the top. So cut the rear springs at the top and install the cut end on top.

quote Originally posted by AL87: I would like to know how one goes about getting to the springs

Jack the car up as high as possible and support with jack stands under the crossmember. Disconnect the sway bar end links, disconnect (or remove the front shock, place a jack under the ball joint and make sure the jack is about 1/2" below the ball joint. Loosen the lower ball joint nut a few turns and use a special tool to break the lower ball joint free (or run the nut to the top and use a brass drift and a hammer to break it free). Once it is loose, raise the jack to support the lower a-arm and remove the ball joint nut completely. Now slowly lower the jack and if you need to press down on the lower a-arm with your foot. Eventually the arm will go down far enough that the spring will pop out of the lower pocket in the a-arm. Once it has, you can grab it and wiggle it the rest of the way out. The 84-87's sometimes have to be forced out of the upper perch.

Thanks for the great info "fieroguru" , that answered my question in good details.

The front springs on mine definitely needed to be forced out of the upper perch. They were stuck in so hard I thought I'd never get them out. Also, when removing the front springs, it's never a bad idea to tie a chain around them in case they have a mind to come flying off and hit you in the head. Better safe than sorry.

Edit: Mine is an '85 GT, with the Eibach lowering springs as mentioned above.

[This message has been edited by NetCam (edited 09-06-2014).]

quote Originally posted by Ponnari: Hey racingfortheson, where did you get that passenger side quarter scoop? I like also.... This is probably a dumb question, but when cutting the spring do you cut off the top or bottom of the springs?

I used a set of Fiat X19 scoops. My front springs didn't just fall out. I hook a small chain around them and used a set of spring compressors. USE CHAIN FOR SURE. Not worth chancing it. One of mine tried to pop out hard. I don't know what would of happened if I wasn't using the chain, probably nothing, but it stop it from shooting out.

Thanks racingfortheson for the removal & safety tip. I always try to over do it on the safety stuff. But it when you get in to something you don't know about that can be dangerous so I appreciate all the info like that!

My front springs came out with a little wiggling and help from a pry bar.

its as easy as undoing the lower ball joint of which mine are less than a year old, so everything came apart fairly easily.
support the lower control arm with a jack to take the pressure off the lower ball joint's nut and then lower the jack,
prestO change-O!

I took 1 1/4 coils off. and trimmed the bump stops. and installed new front shocks.
the fender is 2 inches away from the top of the tire at rest.
I'm going to drive it around for a week and see how everything goes as far as the springs settling back into place all the way.

85 GT lightened 250 lbs. Cut 1-1/6 coil front and 1-O " back. With 195-65-14' s there is 3-1/2" well clearance front, 4-1/4" well clearance rear. I would like to lower another inch fore and aft. On droop (jacked) or whoop de doo there is about 1/2 free in back . There it seems a helper spring might be required next time. The car looks like a Lancia Stratos ready for the Africa rally. Car rides well.


A word on after market springs. The chinese stuff is often bogus. I bought a set advertised at 200 lbs, was 125. I believe reforming springs with a torch at the ends for fit can be done within reason.Only heat enough to make the bend and then quench. There are spring manufacturers who purposely create dead coils at the top for snug fit (no droop). Poor man's spring tester: Set up a bathroom scale on a hydraulic press. Use a tape measure after putting some preload into the spring and note the difference over 1" of depression. Not NASCAR but better than guessing.