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Remove and Replace (R&R) rear axle seals by johnyrottin
Started on: 08-28-2014 12:03 PM
Replies: 6 (1446 views)
Last post by: theogre on 10-21-2014 12:01 PM
johnyrottin
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Report this Post08-28-2014 12:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for johnyrottinSend a Private Message to johnyrottinEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Need to do my rear axle seals in my Indy. I have a little bit of weep coming from them. I plan on doing my timing gasket as well as the camshaft seal while I am under there just to make sure I get all possible leak areas. My question is what is the best way to get those bad boys out? Is there some type of special tool? Can I do it through the wheel wheels or do I need to do a complete engine drop?
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Bloozberry
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Report this Post08-28-2014 12:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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masospaghetti
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Report this Post08-28-2014 02:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for masospaghettiSend a Private Message to masospaghettiEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The seals themselves just pry out. They are tricky to get back in without distorting them though, you need something that has the right diameter. The seals have a raised metal bulb on them, so you can't drive them in with something like a block of wood.

If its your first time, I'd pick up a couple extra so if you destroy one, you won't be stuck.
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tebailey
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Report this Post08-28-2014 04:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tebaileySend a Private Message to tebaileyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
A piece of 2" pvc pipe fits perfect over the seals to use with a seal driver, or something similar. I did mine through the wheel wells, but getting at the drivers side is almost impossible without remove the axles from the car. I do agree, get extras mine did not seat straight the first time.
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fgt1988
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Report this Post10-21-2014 07:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fgt1988Send a Private Message to fgt1988Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Just did mine last night as it was sipping a little of fluid thru the seal and got tired of looking at that puddle of clear transmission oil- I bought the cheap seal from Advance for $5 but didn't like and it went with a Timken for $12 Autozone part # 3543 and grease it up nicely and voila - it was a bit of a pain removing the old one - went to HomeDepot and got myself some 2" PVC with a treaded cap so I could have something to tap over it and job done within 20 mins -
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edfiero
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Report this Post10-21-2014 10:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for edfieroSend a Private Message to edfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by masospaghetti:

The seals themselves just pry out. They are tricky to get back in without distorting them though, you need something that has the right diameter. The seals have a raised metal bulb on them, so you can't drive them in with something like a block of wood.

If its your first time, I'd pick up a couple extra so if you destroy one, you won't be stuck.



HA. Wish I would have read this 2 days ago. Take it from me. Block of wood will destroy the seal. I even tried putting the seal in the freezer first. But I can attest to the fact that your 'driver' must be the correct diameter (which I believe is about 2.3 inches)

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theogre
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Report this Post10-21-2014 12:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
See my Cave, Axle

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

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