I thought only the 88 engines had rubber pan gaskets. I found a rubber one under the 86 model year on rockauto and was wondering if it was compatable I cant tell by the overhead stock photo.
There are two types. There is the original in the 85 which is a two piece and then part way through 86 the newer 87 block came in and it has a single piece.
There is a rubber one for the single piece and you are well advised to use it if you have that type of pan because it cures the leakage that is common with the cork gaskets. I find the cork is a little tricky to get tight. Hope this helps
Cork gasket is impossible to get right. When I built my engine I made sure everything was perfect, every surface meticulously cleaned, rtv on both sides of everything, a nice even fat bead. I tightened everything just enough to get the rtv to squeeze out evenly all around, let it dry just enough, and then torqued it down. Leak free for around 6000 miles. NOW IT'S BACK
I never had a problem with the cork personally... then again, I planned ahead seeing as how so many complained of cork leaking all the time... I used a brush on adhesive to hold the cork to the block, and then I used more to hold the pan to the cork. and after everything was torqued down, I used said black rtv and filled the entire seam wiith it, no leaks!!!
I have however encountered a real main seal blowing out on me which then caused the oil to come out RIGHT AFTER an oil change... which then prompted a rod knock, and now that said motor is torn apart and will be going to the machine shop for inspecting...
I have a few 2.8 spares sitting here, one of which I'm going to put in before the weekend to get back on the road.
Im taking the comp 252 out, and now I'm going big. I have those guys figuring out a nice street/strip cam at around 290ish. and .498" max lift on the exhaust side. lsa will be @108
I never had a problem with the cork personally... then again, I planned ahead seeing as how so many complained of cork leaking all the time... I used a brush on adhesive to hold the cork to the block, and then I used more to hold the pan to the cork. and after everything was torqued down, I used said black rtv and filled the entire seam wiith it, no leaks!!!
I have however encountered a real main seal blowing out on me which then caused the oil to come out RIGHT AFTER an oil change... which then prompted a rod knock, and now that said motor is torn apart and will be going to the machine shop for inspecting...
I have a few 2.8 spares sitting here, one of which I'm going to put in before the weekend to get back on the road.
Im taking the comp 252 out, and now I'm going big. I have those guys figuring out a nice street/strip cam at around 290ish. and .498" max lift on the exhaust side. lsa will be @108
good luck getting that oil pan back off, you are going to need it, and a jack hammer.
The 85-86V6 had a cork type gasket with the rubber peice for around the crank.
It was or is a crappy design. One of my 88GTs has an 87 engine in it and has the cork gasket type. The timing cover is off another GM V6 car. One day I will be installing the spare timing cover I have from an 88V6 fiero engine.
The other original 88GT I have has a true 88V6 engine. To this day, the one piece gasket has no leaks at all.
To do this swap for the rubber 1 peice gasket, you need the timing cover from an 87-88V6 fiero engine. The rubber gasket is more expensive, but better pan sealing. Use a torque wrench and tighten to spec. This is critical, so don't over-look this method.
good luck getting that oil pan back off, you are going to need it, and a jack hammer.
Steve
the adhesive I used was only good until the cork absorbed the oil, the only functional seal was the black rtv, and it worked great. disassembly took 5 minutes or less to take the oil pan bolts out and then use a foot long flathead screwdriver to pry at the corners. the rtv came off in ALMOST one clean piece with the pan. just something to think about for any of us who rebuild an engine that uses cork.
OR just use rtv by itself, I had to do that on an 88 duke when I rebuilt it since there was no oil pan gasket that I could buy.
Oil leaks are making me try my 3rd attempt at installing a rubber oil pan gasket on my 88 2.8. This time I plan on using soft set Form a Gasket on both sides of it and extra heavy amounts near main bearing areas.
The other two times I used RTV near the main bearing with nothing in the middle and I always used a torque wrench. Both times seepage at both ends and possibly a little in the middle.
This will be my first time while the engine is in the car and with everything being new hopefully won't be to much of a pain.
If anyone wants to pass along any tips on this subject be my guest.
------------------ ∇PONTIAC∇ “The difference between a Fiero owner and genius is that genius has its limits.”
On the early 2.8 V6, I don't even use a gasket. Those multi-piece gaskets (with the cork pieces for the sides) are trash. I've had better luck with a 1/4" bead of RTV silicone, and no gasket.
That said, the one-piece gasket on my 3.4 V6 is awesome! It has a metal core with rubber on the outside, and doesn't need any kind of sealant. It installs dry, and doesn't leak a drop. It's also reusable.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 04-11-2016).]