Spark appears to be strong. 3 ignition modules, two ignition coils, two distributors, checked DC voltage at distributor and ignition coil, all appear to be good. Two parts stores verified the ignition modules. New plug wires, dizzy cap and rotor button.
Timing. Set ignition timing to spec, then 'rotated" the plug wires at dizzy cap 3 terminals ~180 degrees worth, still nothing.
Disconnected the wire going to Tach filter, in case it somehow had shorted.
Verified the Harmonic balancer/front pulley has NOT slipped. Found TDC with coat hanger down #1 cylinder, TDC timing mark was also TDC.
Did get the engine to stumble/somewhat run for 1 second when the distributor was moved (far) away from set timing.
This is while using ether/starting fluid.
Previous owner stated they thought it was timing, their English was not too good.
So, I am leaning towards cam timing/slipped chain. The replacement chain and gears appear to be very robust and a relatively short chain, so slippage does NOT look too likely.
Then another very unique problem: The rear spark plugs have an unusual feel to them. 13/16" and 5/8" sockets do not fit. Plugs seem/feel to have a rubber bushing? blocking access to the "nut" Front plugs were normal. Will lower/pivot the cradle within a few days, gain access and visual to the rear plugs.
Fuel tank was cleaned out and fuel pump replaced. Fuel pressure was checked at Schrader valve at 42 PSI, engine not running of course.
Any suggestions? Surely this phenomenon has happened before.
Oh, the $10 Rodney Hickman headlight repair kit worked liked a charm. Car does not run, but new headlight switch, $10 kit, $3 brake cleaner gave us working headlights and power door locks! Maybe we need better priorities.
and to phonedawgz and its a yes to all 3
Since the car sat for a while and considering your troubleshooting my first suspect would be clogged injectors.
However before going there lets check a few things. If the ECM isn't running it won't fire the injectors. The ignition system will operate without the ECM so the fact that it fired on starting fluid doesn't eliminate the ECM not running. If your ECM isn't running the most likely suspect of that is that the ECM isn't getting power.
So first thing is to note does the check engine light come on with the key on engine off? It should. Does the fuel pump run for two seconds when you first turn the key on (no cranking) and then does it shut off? It should. If the answer to both of these questions is no, then you need to look at why the ECM isn't running. If one or both is yes then the ECM is running.
If you have both of the previous questions as yes, then the next thing to do is to just bump the starter and see if the fuel pump turns on for two seconds and then turns off again. If so that indicates that the ignition system is sending a signal to the ECM. Note - this test is only valid with ONLY a bump of the starter. If you crank the engine with the starter you will build up oil pressure. The fuel pump relay has a back up redundancy in the oil pressure switch. If oil pressure is built up the oil pressure switch will turn on and the fuel pump will run.
So now if questions 1, 2 and 3 are all that they are working properly, then the thing to do is to pull the injectors and soak their tips in injector cleaning fluid overnight. That will free the injectors. Replace the O rings on the injectors before re installing them.
For your spark plug problem, it sounds like you have part of the spark plug wire boots stuck on them. The last 1/2 inch or so. The ones on the front I take a mirror to look down the plug galley to see. You can normally use a coat hanger to "peel" the remaining part of the boot off. Put your dist. back to TDC and don't screw with it again until you get it running. Don't use the rotor for dist. TDC, use the points of the pickup. With no. 1 piston at TDC have the the pickup points come together. This gives you at least electrical TDC. Borrow someones compression gauge to check for mechanical problems. Saves time in the long run. Find an LED. They are like a dollar at RAT SHACK. Remove one of the injector connectors(the easier the better. Install LED the in the connector. Have someone crank it. See if LED flashes. If it don't flash, turn it around(will only work one way). This is a cheap noid light. That will tell you if at least the ECM is controlling the injectors or not. If not check for voltage on at least one side of the connector(blown injector fuse). If that's OK and still no flash and you are SURE no pick up coil, module and related wire problem, then you have a ECM problem. I have seen pick up coils strong enough to drive the module, but too weak to also drive the ECM. At this point you would have have covered 2 of the 3 things needed Compression, Fuel, Fire. For fire the cheapest is to take an old beater spark plug. Open the gap wide. Just a tiny bit less than the distance from the electrode and the side of the plug. So it shoots to the electrode instead of the side. They do sell a spark tester for this though. Looks like a fat spark plug with adjustable gap. Put it in the coil wire first. Should be a nice bright yellow/orange fat spark. If it is a white/blue normally a fine line, it's weak. Then check at least 2 of your spark plug wires should be just as bright. If it was good at the coil, but not at the wires. Check for a pin hole(looks like a tiny pencil mark) in your rotor. Or you have crap wires. If you have that and the plugs are not fuel fouled, it should start unless you missed something of this or before.
[This message has been edited by cmechmann (edited 03-01-2014).]
Could be a little better. But could be a lot worse. Should do compression test with all plugs out. With fuel pump fuse out. Coil disconnected. Throttle held open . With battery well charged. Should only need 3-4 revolutions to bring it up. squirt a little oil into the cylinders to make sure the rings are not contracted from sitting or cold. Also to rule out light rust on valve seats. Both of which would go away once you got it started.
ok so this is a long shot but what if the timing chain is bad?
the people we got the car from told us it had a bad back fire maybe it skiped time?
what do you guys think
Have you checked the timing? See if the timing is off. You can always loosen the timing adjustment bolt and move the distributor to retard the timing maybe that'll work.
You should try holding the TB wide open and try starting it. If nothing happens try some starting fluid shoot it right down the TB, you shouldnt have to use alot if you have spark something should happen. If it does try to start then its most likely not getting any fuel.
------------------ Tim and Lynn 1987 Fastback GT in restore mode..
Probubley rust in the fuel tank and a seized fuel pump,read my post here: //www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/088012.html But befor you tear into that, try spraying a little fuel into the intake and see if it fires up. Oh yea,check your fireing order too. They may have crossed plug wires.
[This message has been edited by James Bond 007 (edited 03-10-2014).]
The vacuum lines are there for a reason. Is the MAP still connected?
yes its still hooked up luckily.... my buddy keeps telling me that he thinks that it has jumped time. It did have a bad backfire but im still not convinced that it has jumed because its not off when i put in on TDC. Its right on the number one and if i turn it one more full time its aimed at the driver seat. I may need to go back to the 70s cars lol..