Ok some of you may know me from my 1 person clutch bleed. Worked but there was a wet spot under car. Any who I go out today to look at it and pedal is loose again. I jack up front of car to do gravity bleed and I notice the cap is very tight to get off. Infact it wont open its low now but as I tur. The entire little container spins as I try to twist. So then I get in car frustrated and I notice pedal is now tight after jacking up and attempting to remove cap.
So I want to replace clutch master cylinder im trying to see how to do it. Ive searched on the fourms and ca t seem to find a walk through. I just want to know what to expect and basically how to do it, bc ive never done one before and I plan on keep this car forever so really want to learn.
I know about Rodney's parts aswell. I'll b using a stander autozon or advance clutch master cylinder and order his in about a month when im in a better financial situation.
Before I open up any of the hydraulic systems, I pick up a set of rubber vacuum port caps at the parts stores. They come in a package of assorted sizes, usually on a little plastic tree. I use these to cap the line to prevent air being pulled in and fluid leaking out of the system.
Replacing the MC is no hard task. Remove the fluid line and cap it with one of the rubber vacuum port caps. The nuts holding the MC can be a little difficult to access, so find the appropriate wrench and remove them.
Go underneath the dash and pull the clip that holds the pushrod onto the pedal. Carefully remove the rod from the pin, paying attention to position of the bushings and washers. Pull the MC and rod out the front.
Now, reverse the steps and install the MC. Pay close attention that the curl of the pushrod is upward when positioned on the pin.
Some new MC's come with what looks like a plastic bleeder valve in the fluid line port. If yours does, secure a suitable piece of hose that will slide over the bleeder nipple and loop over to the inside bottom of the reservoir. Fill the reservoir with fluid and carefully pump the pushrod. This will help expel air inside and fill it with fluid.
Quickly remove the rubber cap from the line and install the line into the MC. You will still need to do a system bleed, but you will have far much air in the system than if you didn't bench bleed the MC.
Of course, take all precautions to catch and absorb any leaking brake fluid and prevent it from getting on parts of the vehicle.
Ok abt to give it a whirl. Hopefully I dont svrew up but I feel pretty confident. Plus ive paid machanics to replace master cylinders before and felt stupid when I watched them do it bc it was soooo simple.