I've kitherd of gravity bleeds, but looking to be sure before I do it. I have to pump up pedal now before it works consistently then aver a few shifts I have to pump it back up again to gain that. Soild feel. Was thinking of using a mighty vac, but kinda wanted a walk through if possuble. Saw the fiero video on gravity feed, thier bleed made it worse so that wasnt too comforting.
I would get the double seal piston from Rodney Dickman and put it in your existing slave. I have one on order, I will let you know how it works. I think on a lot of the slaves the piston keeps leaking pressure past the single seal.
I've kitherd of gravity bleeds, but looking to be sure before I do it. I have to pump up pedal now before it works consistently then aver a few shifts I have to pump it back up again to gain that. Soild feel. Was thinking of using a mighty vac, but kinda wanted a walk through if possuble. Saw the fiero video on gravity feed, thier bleed made it worse so that wasnt too comforting.
The last time I bled an Isuzu Trans Slave Cylinder, I used a Pneumatic Vacuum Bleeder. It worked amazingly. The Mighty Vac works in a similar way minus the Pneumatic part. I would get another person to watch the level of the Clutch Fluid and then put the hose on the bleeder valve, pump up the Mighty Vac some (to create a vacuum) and then crack open the valve. Watch the fluid coming out for air. If your friend watching the level says its getting low, close the bleeder valve while maintaining a vacuum until its closed. Then put more fluid in the reservoir. DO NOT LET THE CLUTCH FLUID RUN OUT. You will be there all day trying to get the air out. The fluid coming out of the bleeder valve through the hose should be solid with no bubbles, you should be go to go once you see that.
If you have one the Mighty-Vac brake bleeder works well, the Motive Bleeder works great. If you are trying to bleed manually it can be a difficult process and it takes 2 men to be done effectively.
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Ok guess its going to have to go to my buddys shop then. Might as well get that slave cylinder in the rear replacd while im at it. I thought it was just low bc its been sitting for a while, but you all saying its a 2 person job ill just tale to shop and have it done.
I did mine myself, used a 2x4 that could reach the clutch pedal with the car door open, me standing by the slave with a wrench on the slave bleeder, push clutch via board with my hip, then squeeze slave/shift arm, open the bleeder close the bleeder, repeat, basically. Have something over the bleeder so it doesnt spray all over.
Dont let the clutch fluid reservoir get too low.
[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 02-21-2014).]
I did mine myself, used a 2x4 that could reach the clutch pedal with the car door open, me standing by the slave with a wrench on the slave bleeder, push clutch via board with my hip, then squeeze slave/shift arm, open the bleeder close the bleeder, repeat, basically. Have something over the bleeder so it doesnt spray all over.
My one-man, no stick on the pedal, no pumping, clutch system bleeding method:
Jack up the left front of the car until the wheel lifts off the ground. Remove the MC reservoir cap and with a lintless towel, clean out all black fluid and sediment. Now, fill the reservoir to the top with fresh fluid. Leave the open bottle sitting close by. You will need it to refill the reservoir during the procedure. Go to the rear, and using a 13mm wrench or socket, loosen the slave bleeder valve and let the fluid flow. Using a ratchet handle or a heavy wrench or small hammer or mallet, tap the side of the slave cylinder. This will dislodge any air bubbles stuck at the pushrod end. Keep watch on the MC fluid level. Top off as it nears the bottom, but do not let it run dry. Each time after refilling the MC reservoir, go back and tap the side of the slave for a few seconds. Fill the reservoir 3 times and on the 3rd time, let the fluid drop to the full mark and close the bleeder valve.
If the system is in good operating condition, you will have a good clutch release.
Ok guess its going to have to go to my buddys shop then. Might as well get that slave cylinder in the rear replacd while im at it. I thought it was just low bc its been sitting for a while, but you all saying its a 2 person job ill just tale to shop and have it done.
Well, if you do decide to take it to the shop. Buy the Slave Cylinder yourself. Get one from Rodney Dickman. His Slave Cylinder are a Higher Quality than what you get from the parts store like NAPA, I went through 2 NAPA Slave Cylinders because they would never bleed out correctly.
Your slave cylinder is sucking in air .you probably dont see any leaks , right ? so get a new one and then put an Earls solo bleed screw on it .one man clutch bleeding made easy .
Ok im going to see if my ladycan help me do it first. So should I have her pump up till its tight then hold as I turn while is connected to mighty vac or is it a different system. I want to try the front left gravity feed but thats what I saw on the video that got no results, and right now I can pump it up and still drive id hate to try gravity feed and turn into having to get it towed. I like the 2x4 hipster method, I figure since my lady is off tommorroq we will give it a whirl. Sooo pump t ill its tight then loosen screw and vaccum?
Ok so my last question is since I dont need her to pump it up. Do I pump it up to stiffen it first. Its alway jelly until I start car and pump it up. So just vac from jelly pedal or stiffen it first before I start process?
Glad its amusing to you.. anyways this should really cut you up. Bleedng did improve my clutch but b4 I started I looked under car and saw a wet spot in the middle of the car towards the middlele of the front tires. Im going to go under tommorow during daylight to get a better look. Us there anything down there I should be looking out for? Definitely fluid and as I said it was Before. I suspect its the culprit in this unexplained leak in clutch fluid and air in the lines.
[This message has been edited by logical1 (edited 02-22-2014).]
the joints made in the OEM lines where the flexible lines join the steel tube are prone to leaking .you can make a new line with brake line tubing .don't throw away your fittings .take the tubing to a mechanic and get him to flare the ends for you and use your existing fittings.you don't need the flex parts , just make a U bend at the engine to allow for vibration .the master cylinders are also prone to leaking at the plastic to metal joint .i do not know if you can get new seals or not , i bought a new master cylinder for my car .
the joints made in the OEM lines where the flexible lines join the steel tube are prone to leaking .you can make a new line with brake line tubing .don't throw away your fittings .take the tubing to a mechanic and get him to flare the ends for you and use your existing fittings.you don't need the flex parts , just make a U bend at the engine to allow for vibration .the master cylinders are also prone to leaking at the plastic to metal joint .i do not know if you can get new seals or not , i bought a new master cylinder for my car .
If you cut and splice the line, you need to be sure you get metric lines. Otherwise you will never get a good seal. I found out the hard way. Didn't leak fluid, but it sucked air.
Since my first Fiero in 1993, I've never heard of leaks occurring at the juncture of the flex and solid line. I also did the solid line at the slave when I broke my steel line. I found that even with several bends to allow for flexing, that there's just not enough to take all stress off the connection at the slave, and it eventually started to leak.
my 85 duke had the line rot at the flex joints .I built a new solid line and drove it for 5 years with out a leak .the trick was to get the right flare on .my mechanic at the time recognized the type of flair as a bubble flair and luckily he had a tool to make them.slide your old nut on , make the flair and you are good to go .i made a line from front to back , no splices and no more leaks .
Went to try and gill again yesterday and cap was stuck when I twisted hard the cluch master cylinder twisted withe cap and I could see fluid dripping out. I think its the leak. If if not have to replace bc the cap is stuck. Made a thread abt how to fix but no 1 responded. I seached the fourm. Ever post ppl already knew what to doo. Im going to try this today. What should I expect and basically tell me step for step.I just want to learn how to do it im going to be keeping this car forever so I need to learn. Also it will be a local part ill order a Rodney 1 later on this week. Another reason y I want to learn ill do it tgis way first then again when rodneys comes. Any pointers?
If you have one the Mighty-Vac brake bleeder works well, the Motive Bleeder works great.
Another vote here for the Motive pressure bleeder. I have a Mityvac and a Motive. I FAR prefer the Motive. The Mityvac can pull air in around seals that aren't in very good condition.
"Using this slave bleeder tool is the same as using the original bleeder with a wrench. Instead of loosening and tightening the bleeder on the slave cylinder while some one pushes the clutch just install this tool and slowly push the clutch pedal down and up. The one way valve does all the work! Once the bleeding process is finished simply remove this bleeder tool and reinstall the original bleeder. No fluid will be lost."
