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Rebuilds by dallasreese
Started on: 02-19-2014 10:31 AM
Replies: 9 (203 views)
Last post by: dallasreese on 02-20-2014 09:33 AM
dallasreese
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Report this Post02-19-2014 10:31 AM Click Here to See the Profile for dallasreeseSend a Private Message to dallasreeseEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I was wondering if any of you would know of any Guidelines/Links/Info regarding rebuiling a Fiero.
Basically the best order in doing such...Doesnt need to be too technical or in depth...
Thx...Dallas
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dallasreese
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Report this Post02-19-2014 10:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for dallasreeseSend a Private Message to dallasreeseEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I should have used the word...Restoration.
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Gall757
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Report this Post02-19-2014 11:37 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
They wear out in such different ways it's hard to predict what needs to be done. Northern cars rust, but they have nice interiors.....Southern cars cook their paint jobs and interiors, but have no rust. Original owners drove a lot of them into the ground, but if maintained, they are as good as any GM car.....
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Zeak
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Report this Post02-19-2014 11:47 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ZeakSend a Private Message to ZeakEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I Think the "Construction zone" would be a good place to start. I like to read tho the builds from start to finish while taking notes for things I could try. No build will be the same with these cars....

Click
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Lou6t4gto
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Report this Post02-19-2014 01:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Lou6t4gtoSend a Private Message to Lou6t4gtoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Start with a Rust free car. First, the suspension and brakes, Clean out the engine comp, Then the drive train "of your choice". do the paint, and LAST the interior. I've always used this order, mainly because in the end, you don't "Mess up" what you have done previously. I'm sure everyone has their own way of doing thing, some people want "instant gratification" so they Paint it first. If at all possible, Use a RUST FREE CAR to start, it may cost a little more to begin with, but will save you ALOT in the end.
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WhateverUSMC
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Report this Post02-19-2014 03:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WhateverUSMCSend a Private Message to WhateverUSMCEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
As one who has just started this very journey...

I decided to separate tasks into Sooner and Later sort of thought process. Basically, I figure all the interior and exterior work doesn't matter a bunch if the car won't roll. So I started with mechancial issues, and have recently moved on into electrical.

Having said that, this is from the point-of-view of getting this up and running, regardless of looks. I suppose it depends on how soon you want to start having onlookers say 'What the heck is THAT?!'
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Knight
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Report this Post02-19-2014 06:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for KnightSend a Private Message to KnightEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
First off, did you already have one and if so what year. The 88 has clean sheet design front and rear suspension and better brakes. Down side is parts are are and either expensive or inferior reproductions for 88 only parts. Don't get an 84, too may reasons why. That leaves the 85-87 as the most easily and cheapest to restore.
MUST rebuild suspension. All of it is over 25 years old. Ball joints, tie rod ends, a-arm bushings, rear cradle bushings.
Just switching to solid rear cradle bushings made a massive difference. Went from feeling like I was riding on semi-flat rear tires to fully inflated tires. Next, for safety reasons, I am replacing my front and rear ball joints, in that order if necessary. Then tie rods, front and rear. A-arm bushings can wait, but use Moog brand bushings only. Trust me, use rubber or you will feel every tiny change in road surface. Don't forget anti-swaybar bushings and end links. I'd use rubber unless I was going to add a rear bar.
Brakes, decide on how much brake you need. Much discussion on here about that. Stock wheels/tires, I'd get performance pads. Should be fine. Running an accordion air tube from front turn signal pocket to just in front of front brake disc will help fade resistance for spirited trips in the mountains. I personal plans on the Lebanon/caddy 11.25inch upgrade. Don't think I will need more on such a light car.
Engine. Well I pulled the distributer. Rusted severely. I changed the distributer, used a Buick V6 red cap (Summit) and Taylor 8.8mm red wires. I also used a MSD replacement coil. AC Delco std plugs. Car seems to like these the best. And a battery with a good warranty. Remember that it gets VERY HOT back there for that battery.
Never had my car fail. It is the most reliable car I have ever owned. I did rebuild my brakes from the wheel bearings out (use high temp bearing grease). And even with spirited driving, I have rarely had brake fade, using performance oases from the Fiero Store.
That is a good start. This will give you a good start/foundation.
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Knight
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Report this Post02-19-2014 06:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for KnightSend a Private Message to KnightEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Knight

364 posts
Member since Apr 2006
WhateverUSMC is right. I have a list if all I need/ want to do, by category/are of car, lists from sooner to later. I actually also have it listed in stages of restoration/modification. An example:
Suspension stage1:
Rear cradle solid bushings (Rodney Dickman)
Front ball joints from Rodney Dickman (1" drop lower! slotted upper)
Front tie rods (Rodney Dickman)
Rubber bushings, poly end links bushing for anti-sway bar
Suspension stage 2:
New front shocks
Stiffer front coil
New steering stabilizer
Suspension stage 3:
Ect.....
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Custom2M4
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Report this Post02-20-2014 12:27 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Custom2M4Send a Private Message to Custom2M4Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Purchase Car.
Upgrade Suspension to make said car perform.
Upgrade Brakes to stop said car.
Install a whole lotta horsepower to make said car go fast.
Turbocharge said car.
Said Car = Restored to what Pontiac shoulda been doin in 1984.

------------------

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dallasreese
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Report this Post02-20-2014 09:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for dallasreeseSend a Private Message to dallasreeseEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Wow..alot of great feedback guys..Thanks...Btw..my car is an 84 w/ around 160,000 miles..
But in pretty good shape...
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