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Welding shut bolt holes and redrilling wheels by infinitewill
Started on: 01-30-2014 10:15 AM
Replies: 9 (2507 views)
Last post by: jon m on 02-01-2014 12:27 PM
infinitewill
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Report this Post01-30-2014 10:15 AM Click Here to See the Profile for infinitewillSend a Private Message to infinitewillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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[This message has been edited by infinitewill (edited 03-24-2015).]

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rogergarrison
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Report this Post01-30-2014 10:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It CAN be done, but there has to be room where you need them. It is a job for professionals like a machine shop or a place like http://www.transwheel.com/c....aspx?Event=Contact. If there not local to you, you have shipping that could be $25 per wheel also...both ways. You can try them but buy the time you buy them, ship them and have the machining done, you will prob pay substantially more than you would for a set of wheels that just bolt on. Id say if you pay more than $50-$75 for the set its a loosing propostion. Of course if you HAVE to have these style wheels, you will pay anything. Personally, I wouldnt trust a wheel with welded up holes and redrilled any more than Id trust adapters. Is yours and others lives worth the risk ?
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infinitewill
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Report this Post01-30-2014 01:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for infinitewillSend a Private Message to infinitewillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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[This message has been edited by infinitewill (edited 03-24-2015).]

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Slowbuild
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Report this Post01-30-2014 02:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SlowbuildSend a Private Message to SlowbuildEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
This came up on a website I belong to, weldweb.com

There are some very professional guys over there. The consensus was that this type of weld was likely to fail because the dissimilar metals (fill vs base) will tear at each other due to temp changes and fail. A circular fill weld, where the same tension forces exist on both sides of the circle is apparently very difficult to get to hold.


Wheels are pretty cheap these days. If you decide to do an adapter, make sure it is the double bolt type (bolt to original studs, and also the new wheel), not just a spacer. even then there is increased risk due to the increased complexity and thickness/thermal expansion etc.

Chay
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jon m
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Report this Post01-30-2014 02:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jon mSend a Private Message to jon mEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Will - would it be easier to have the hub modified ?

jon

[This message has been edited by jon m (edited 01-30-2014).]

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infinitewill
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Report this Post01-30-2014 03:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for infinitewillSend a Private Message to infinitewillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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[This message has been edited by infinitewill (edited 03-24-2015).]

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RCR
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Report this Post01-30-2014 09:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RCRSend a Private Message to RCREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
As Jon said, Will, you'd be better off redrilling the hubs, especially since these are rare wheels. Why risk having them screwed up. I think from a cosmetic point it might look weird if the holes don't line up as designed (although the 2mm might be hard to see).

Bob
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Marvin McInnis
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Report this Post01-31-2014 11:37 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Marvin McInnisClick Here to visit Marvin McInnis's HomePageSend a Private Message to Marvin McInnisEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by infinitewill:

Unfortunately, they are no longer made and they were very scarce in the U.S. the wheels are 5 x 112.



I'm kinda' in the same boat. I own a new-in-box set of BBS Pininfarina wheels in 5 x 120 that I would like to be able to use someday.



If your Fiero is an '88 (I don't remember) the front hub flanges are large enough in diameter to be safely drilled for a larger bolt circle (up to 120 mm/4 3/4 in). I even machined up a 5 x 120 jig for this purpose on a vertical mill at JCCC. The Fiero rear hubs are more problematic, though.

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 01-31-2014).]

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rogergarrison
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Report this Post01-31-2014 03:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Sorry Marvin, I dont see enough metal there to safely put in a smaller bolt pattern. The stud holes would almost be into the center cap hole.

Infinite, as far as adapters being bad mentioned too often, I have had them fail on me personally twice, and have fixed quite a few cars that wrecked using adapters. So you've just been lucky, thats all. A friend totalled his 66 Corvette when a front one broke on a curve on a country highway. While some may be safe, those will cost as much as getting a correct new wheel would cost. Im sure you didnt use cheap adapters on a race car...at least Id hope not, especially if an inspection was done at the track. I raced stock cars for years myself, and no kind of adapters, or even unilug wheels were allowed...period. Flat spacers are allowed since they use stock lugs, just longer. Ive seen stock cars tear the whole center out of a solid steel wheel many times leaving the nuts and wheel scraps still bolted on.
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jon m
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Report this Post02-01-2014 12:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jon mSend a Private Message to jon mEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
What about trying to source a hub with the correct pcd which will also have the same bearing size as the fiero ?
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