I seem to remember that my '84 stock tranny used to shift pretty smoothly. Then I went through a lot of trouble with the dog bone part of the engine mount getting loose, repeatedly pulling the motor, etc. All things that I believe affected the alignment of the shift cables. I switched from regular motor oil to synchromesh and don't remember there being a significant difference. I have realigned the cables according to the manual and the shifting is still not as smooth as I thought it used to be. It feels like there are two "clicks" one about halfway into the shift and then the one that should be expected when you get into gear. This issue seems to be consistent for all 4 gears. I was thinking the clutch may not be releasing fully but it looks like I have 1 1/16'' movement at the slave. The clutch pedal sits an inch above the brake pedal. The only thing taht doesn't seem quite right with the clutch system is that the pedal moves with virtually no resistance from the full up position, down an inch or two, just to the point that the clutch pedal switch is no longer contacting the pedal shaft. At that point the slave starts to move. So does this seem like a shift cable issue even though I have followed the adjustment procedure or a clutch issue even though I have correct movement at the slave? Perhaps something else all together? If it helps I can get a pic of where my shift cables are clamped at on the tranny levers.

Sounds like it could be your clutch master cylinder

Check your trans mounts. Had problems with the dog bone in mine and found the trans mounts were totaled. New mounts=smooth shifts.

90 % of Fiero shifting problems are related to the slave ,, the stock single seal piston probably destroyed 10,000
Fiero manual shift transmissions,if you do not have rodney Dickman double seal piston get one immediately
if your pedal feels weak it is the slave ,if the master will push the slave pushrod 1 inch
your master should be good.. The double seal pushrod will resurect a bad slave it is that much better than the single seal stock piston
if you have a double seal piston unless it is a year old or newer ,hone the slave clylinder,you can use light grit sand paper like wet sand paper, wrap it around a rag ect. so few have this size small bore hone to do the slave cylinders
pressing the piston back into the slave using the pushrod is the best way to remove all the air in the slave ,you can try this before you purchase a new piston ,if unsure what piston you have get the new double seal paiton from Rodney
I am running a bad pitted slave,that I lightly honed , with the double seal piston to see how far & how long I can go!! so far 3 years
every running Fiero on the earth needs the slave upgrade double seal piston
every V6 running the stock exhaust manifolds,, needs the exhaust manifolds ported

[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 01-28-2014).]

All the tranny and engine mounts, other than the dog bone, are only 5K miles old. I can't imagine they would be bad but I can inspect them. Maybe loosening all the bolts and letting the motor sit in a new position would help? Right now the bolt for the dog bone is sitting against the far aft part of the upper engine mount. I don't seem to remember this being the case when I got it.
I have a hard time believing that it could be a bad slave since mine moves the magic 1 1/16'' everyone talks about. I'm sure a new piston wouldn't be bad thing though.

The first time I had the engine out and replaced it in my car I unbolted the slave cylinder from the trans for the cradle removal. I found that upon re-installation of the engine and of course the slave cylinder that the pedal was soft despite not having touched the clutch pedal while the engine was out. I found all that was needed was to bleed the clutch and then everything was normal again.