I have a set of Earls braided steel lines I was going to use on my 88 Formula. How ever I need to know what size Banjo fittings I need to go on the ends of them. Also if anyone knows a source to buy them from. The steel lines were free and I think I have a rear line collapsing causing it to pull. thought i would start with replacing rear brake lines and since got these free figured I'd use them. If I can find the banjo fittings for them. If that doesn't fix the problem will progress to the calipers and replace them.

Never try to form/build your own brake lines NEVER unless you are a pro & do this for a living , the kits are O.K. for flaring fuel lines
the regular brake lines are cheap & last a long time ,I have the braided steel lines, they are no better
than the rubber hose lines ,, the best lines have the flat connection at the caliper the Fiero store has
the CORRECT lines ,you can get them from almost any parts store in a day.
do not save money by ordering a short line ,get the correct line .
if you are working on the rear brakes ,get the e brake working 60 % of fiero rear brake problems have to
do with the ebrake..
if when you bleed ,black fluid comes out,the line is damaged
step 1=often some penetrant works a miracle,let it work then ajust
step 2 =remove the ebrake actuaction lever the cable hooks to..
what is your exact problem ??

Yes I do understand about brake lines. I have work with lines on our Pro Mod car but then that was a 200 mph race car. We used all AN and braided line on it. Most of them we had to make our self. I truly do appreciate the advise I am use to AN fittings...lol have several thousand dollars worth of then here at the shop. From what I have read I do understand that the Braided steel are no better than the OEM but had the braided and was going to give it a try.

My problem is when braking above about 45 mph my Formula pulls extremely hard to the right. Off the road type hard. I have just bought this formula drove it home with no problem but was not above 45. This vehicle has been sitting for several months only being driven occasionally. I did a panic stop and found that the right rear locked up. So I can't say one way or the other if the lines have anything to do with it. I have not put it on jack stand or done much of anything other that what I just said. I am going to get it in the shop in the next couple of weeks and explore the problem further.

I find its best to get it off the ground and do a good cleaning see if I need to replace all the calipers and lines. But was hoping to be able to isolate it for now.

research the rear calipers , then use penetrant on the ebrake cables & ajusters ,the fiero e brake cable must be actuated often to make sure the calipers do not bind up or jam !!
remove cable then remove the e brake lever that the cable fits into
after you read the OGRE rear brake info ,& start to work on the system, its not bad
you can rebuild the caliper your self ,, the rebuilt rear calipers have a reputation for being crap
if the caliper piston is good or can be salvage , the pistons are available ,,,buy at least one rebuild kit from the fiero store about $28 .. the fiero store rebuilds with new old stock caliper pistons not sure they still have these ,ask !
this is a wagner bendix part & can be ordered from " some " parts stores
hopefully the brake line will fix problem..

thanks I was wondering about rebuilding them. We use to rebuild the wheel cyl. on our cars when I was younger......back in the 60's and 70's figured it could not be any more complicated than that. I have read the posts from the cave lots of good info. I will check and make sure the pistons are ok. My E brake seems to be working fine. I'll post what I find when I get it up and checked.

DIY brake hoses do not meet DOT/FMVSS 106.
If you have a wreck, your DIY hoses can be big trouble when you get sued.

New rubber hoses that meets current SAE standards are very good.
See https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/129208.html

Bad rear brakes mostly means piston problems.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

stainless braided hose should be wrapped with electrical tape before cutting with a fine tooth hack saw or cutting disk.
place a worm gear clamp over the tape ,as close as you can get it to the cut,, this reduces fraying..
the ogre is correct the rubber hose is excellent & cheap

[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 01-10-2014).]

LOL ok guys will submit to Ogres expertise (as well as everyone else). Found a pretty good deal on rockauto for raybestos oem lines at a good price.

Uhlanstan thanks for the refresher on braided lines I have made them for years...lol... love the smell after using a cut off disk on them. However these are the ones like we used on our Pro Mod...they are already made would only need adaptors. However I'll save them for something else.

I reckon it is understandable as far as race cars are concerned. Pro Mod being a drag racing car. Our car was checked and rechecked every time we went down the track. Being the driver as well I would not have gone down the track if we didn't. With the "open" design of most race cars you didn't have to worry about things that are everyday on a street car. LOL god knows we had plenty of other things to worry about . Also much over 140 MPH brakes are only good for causing a disaster and even under 140 to 150 you just tap them. We used our twin chutes to get way below that before using any hydraulic/mechanical brakes.

Again thanks for the response. I'll let you know what I find. I lucked up with these two formulas both are running and only have about 1300 in both of them. They are not cherries but they are not lemons either.