Ha, folk's. Iv made my air intake come from the stock vent with no blockage, (the so called muffler,water seperator) so it is true outside air. Its on a 85 gt v6. Do I need to do somthing tocompensate for the colder air? It seem's my idle stay's high a lot longer at start up an after geting off the freeway its high till I dive a bit in stop an go traffic. If any one know's what's up with this id like the help or any info... thx
[This message has been edited by georgie (edited 12-08-2013).]
I don't see how the idle would change unless you modified some other areas around the engine. I modded mine with a kit from "Rodney Dickman" and the idle stayed the same. How did you do yours?
Spoon
ps: The mod shouldn't change the temp any unless your figuring in the friction factor. ------------------ "Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut
[This message has been edited by Spoon (edited 12-08-2013).]
I don't see how the idle would change unless you modified some other areas around the engine. I modded mine with a kit from "Rodney Dickman" and the idle stayed the same. How did you do yours?
Spoon
ps: The mod shouldn't change the temp any unless your figuring in the friction factor.
The IAT sensor in the air filter housing could have been going bad, and tampering with the housing could have exacerbated the issue, if say, the wires were dry and were bent and cracked a bit, during the removal of the water separator.
Also, is the idle speed actually higher, or does it just "sound" higher? Removal of the water separator/muffler will mean a much louder sound from the intake as air is sucked in. As it is just behind the driver's ear, the louder sound might make it seem like something is wrong if you weren't expecting it. Mostly, the sound is the only real benefit to removing the water separator, as you won't actually see any increase in flow on a stock engine.
I dident have a stock air filter box when I got my car it had a open air filter on the end of the stock intake hose , so i made a box that the filter fit in with room all around it so the air could move in it.I then put a hole on the bottom to mount to the tube that go's out to the vent. I also found out that you don't needd to remove the old muffler part. all you do is take off the vent face on the out side an look in you will see a wall in the hole just hit it with a scewdriver an it will brake out an open to the other side. Just like it should be. Its so easy an no taking off or out of parts. It works great it pull's air strong so I can't see why its doing what it is.
I think that's it, because before I did the work it did the same thing but not as bad. Is there a way to see if its bad or do you just have to change it to see. Btw the ITC is on the hose just behind the air box where it was before should it go in the air box ? Where is the best spot for it to be.
[This message has been edited by georgie (edited 12-08-2013).]
On the idle, check your tach. 800-900 rpm is the norm. Dobey's right on the sound. It may be just the increased noise behind your left ear. You also may want to check the O2 sensor. If it keeps the ecm in open loop the idle may be higher. The IAC (Idle Air Control) on the throttle body can also be slow responding or sticking.
Spoon
------------------ "Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut
I think that's it, because before I did the work it did the same thing but not as bad. Is there a way to see if its bad or do you just have to change it to see. Btw the ITC is on the hose just behind the air box where it was before should it go in the air box ? Where is the best spot for it to be.
It should be in the air stream. The sensor can be tested. Check the archives.
I did get a code light come on, so I will see what it flash's an go from there. Thank's for all the help. I will let you know what it end's up to be an how it turn's out... G
The factory set up is a true cold air intake...in most cases better than what someone can fab up. I leave the water seperator (baffle) in. Ive had my cars sputter, miss and even totally quit, driving in a hard rain on the highway. Also without it if you use a paper element filter, it will get soaked and choke off almost all air into the intake. Removing it only really makes it sound like a vacuum cleaner and dont accomplish anything.
Originally posted by rogergarrison: Removing it only really makes it sound like a vacuum cleaner and dont accomplish anything.
Yep. Back in the day, a guy named Herb Adams dyno tested the stock air intake system vs an open throttle body (i.e. no intake pipe). There was no measurable difference. So the intake pipe is not the bottleneck (the upper plenum is).
The stock intake pipe flows enough to keep the stock engine happy. The only time you would need to upgrade the intake pipe would be if you made some significant mods to the engine, or swapped in a more powerful one.
Ya,I dident have the stock air box, so the intake was geting hot air from the set up the PO had on it. I just tried to bring outside air to the intake, an the box work's great. I was hopeing it would help my high idle. Its not real bad it sit's at 1200 when I start it cold an after I dive in stop a go it will drop to 900 to 800. But what's got me stumped is as soon as I go jump on the freeway or run on a highway over 50mph an come to a stop the high idle come's back till I drive a bit an it drop's back down...??
Ya,I dident have the stock air box, so the intake was geting hot air from the set up the PO had on it. I just tried to bring outside air to the intake, an the box work's great. I was hopeing it would help my high idle. Its not real bad it sit's at 1200 when I start it cold an after I dive in stop a go it will drop to 900 to 800. But what's got me stumped is as soon as I go jump on the freeway or run on a highway over 50mph an come to a stop the high idle come's back till I drive a bit an it drop's back down...??
That isn't high idle. The engine idles a little higher than normal when cold, but goes down after warming up. While driving, it is almost certainly your radiator fan coming on, and the increased load from the alternator causing the engine to idle faster. That is normal.
Ok, I looked at the code an it's sending a EGR code. I reset by disconecting the battery an took a drive, at start up it idled at 1800 an slowly came down only to 1300 1400. So I'm going to look for vac line an the egr tube leak's.
That def is the first place to look. It could have just begun to fail at the tube so it closed up the leak when it was hot. Cold air flowing over it on the highway could cool it down and make it leak again. Ive had exhaust leaks that were loud and went away when it warmed up. The exhaust pipe on my motorhome does that right now. its loud at startup and goes away when it runs a few minutes.
Well I found the prob, I used a small piece of hose an put it up to the egr tube where it conect's to the intake an I could hear it sucking air. So it's time to order a new one. Thank's to all for the help an info.
[This message has been edited by georgie (edited 12-09-2013).]