I've got new knuckles to install on the rear of my rust bucket Indy and another simple task has eaten up a few hours already. I'm trying to install the seals in the rear knuckles and so far there is no way they will go in. The manual says "drive it in with a slightly smaller socket." Well the closest thing I can come to a slightly smaller socket is a heavy duty flashlight, But no matter how I do it, including greasing/sanding the knuckle the seals will not go in straight. I get one side in and thats it - lopsided. There has got to be an easier way to do this. Can someone clue me in - please??
Block of wood, short block of wood and tap it in ever so lightly on opposite sides if the flashlight you are using is long that is your problem, when you get it cocked that's when the block of wood will work, set it on the opposite side and tap that side in ever so lightly, then back and forth if you have to. or drill a hole in the block if need be. just take your time and tap it.
Steve
------------------ Technology is great when it works, and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Like posted above, use a block of wood and a hammer. Put the seal squarely against the hub and do the same for the block of wood against the seal. Now with hammer in hand draw back like your starting a flooded lawn mower and smack the block of wood square in the middle. Mark an X on the wood if you have to and if you hit it absolutely square, logic says it has no place to go but in.
This is however an all or nothing method and there's no second chance for the seal if you miss your mark. You could also put the seal in a Sub_Zero freezer overnight and who knows, it just might drop right in.
Spoon
------------------ "Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut
If it's the axle seals, I used the pvc pipe method. Only mod I did was installed the pvc to the end of my bearing race installer. Worked great, but make sure you get them seated all the way in.
Are the seals coated around the perimeter? I normally have no trouble driving seals into hubs, etc. One time, I got hold of a set of wheel bearing seals that had a coating on them. I could not get them to seat. Used up my entire vocabulary and even made up a few. Scared the wife and the dogs. They. Would. Not. Go.
Read your article and thank you. However, that's basically what I have been doing, but I'm afraid to really rap the seal with my small sledge. It really seems to be too large for the hub. I have already messed up one of the seals by beating on the flashlight. I just can't see it going in from the front all the way to the back side! Where can I get a tool made for driving these things in?
That is exactly what I'm dealing with - I'm thinking of grinding the paint/coating off the seal and trying it that way.
quote
Originally posted by Raydar:
Are the seals coated around the perimeter? I normally have no trouble driving seals into hubs, etc. One time, I got hold of a set of wheel bearing seals that had a coating on them. I could not get them to seat. Used up my entire vocabulary and even made up a few. Scared the wife and the dogs. They. Would. Not. Go.
Instead of grinding on the seal, try using a hand file to make a small chamfer around the hole in the knuckle. That will help the seal seat into the knuckle. When I say "small", I mean about 1/32" deep.
Instead of grinding on the seal, try using a hand file to make a small chamfer around the hole in the knuckle. That will help the seal seat into the knuckle. When I say "small", I mean about 1/32" deep.
Or plumbers tape I think they call it, comes in a roll and looks like sandpaper in some brands and others look like a thin roll of scotch brite. but it should be clean in there where the seal was so unless you have the wrong seal it should go in without any problems. they do sell bearing install kits with steel inserts that go on a rod you hit with a hammer or without the rod and just hit the insert depending on the room you have that I have use before for installing seals.
Some auto parts stores have a loan a tool program where you give them a deposit and when you bring the tool back they give you that back so it cost you nothing to use them.
Steve
[This message has been edited by 84fiero123 (edited 12-06-2013).]
That is exactly what I'm dealing with - I'm thinking of grinding the paint/coating off the seal and trying it that way.
I would just get some different seals that don't have the coating. I never could get my coated ones to work. Ended up beating them to hell trying to get them in. And yeah... they go in from the back side of the knuckle.
Instead of grinding on the seal, try using a hand file to make a small chamfer around the hole in the knuckle. That will help the seal seat into the knuckle. When I say "small", I mean about 1/32" deep.
Thanks to Blacktree's suggestion I got the seals in - and I knew which way they go in, that was never an issue. I used a dremmel instead of the file he suggested and just barely ground the lip to put just a hint of a chamfer on it - took about 30 seconds That allowed the seals (one coated and one uncoated) to sit evenly on the hub all the way around and they easily went straight in using a seal driver. Before I did that, they would not go in straight even using the seal driver - I couldn't seem to keep them flat in the opening until I ran the dremme quickly around the back edges of the knuckle.
