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1988 IRON DUKE IGNITION PROBLEM. by MrRich
Started on: 12-01-2013 04:35 PM
Replies: 12 (1107 views)
Last post by: MrRich on 12-10-2013 05:12 PM
MrRich
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Report this Post12-01-2013 04:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MrRichSend a Private Message to MrRichEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yes this is the same car that I broke a plug in and successfully extracted it.
It starts right up - drive it around, turn it off, come back 15 or so minutes later and it will not start. It just turns over and acts like there is no spark and it floods.
Wait about an hour and she starts right up!
I put in new plugs, crankshaft position sensor and ignition control module. The only parts left to try are the two coil packs.
I don't know anything about this type ignition system, therefore I don't know what the peculiarities are.
Question:
Would the coil packs cure this issue or is there something else that could be the problem.

My thought is that when the engine gets hot it cause some part to misbehave (so to speak) and I don't know which ones.

Thank you
MrRich

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Report this Post12-01-2013 05:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for James Bond 007Send a Private Message to James Bond 007Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Typically when you say "My thought is that when the engine gets hot it cause some part to misbehave (so to speak) and I don't know which ones." yes,its the ignition modual and Pickup, both are replaced at the same time.But yes, you are correct, there are quite a few posibilities,No money lost, it pays for its self, the first 2 months you start the car.

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MrRich
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Report this Post12-01-2013 05:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MrRichSend a Private Message to MrRichEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Are you saying, change the coils?

Thanks
MrRich
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MrRich
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Report this Post12-02-2013 01:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MrRichSend a Private Message to MrRichEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I've now changed all the ignition parts.
Coils, plugs and wires, ignition control module and crank sensor. Plus I've put dielectric on the shield and contacts.
The Duke starts and drives, turn it off and try to start it in 15+ mins, it turns over and gives a little cough and doesn't start. I do smell a thick presents of gas in a flooded throttle body.
The Duke will start about an hour later.
Any ideas out there?

Thanks
MrRich
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jaskispyder
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Report this Post12-02-2013 01:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Check engine light on?

I wonder if the coolant sensor is bad and telling the engine that it is cold, when it is really hot, and then flooding the car.

I can't remember.... did you check for spark?
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Blacktree
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Report this Post12-02-2013 09:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I would try two things:

1) Put a timing light on it, to see if it's getting spark during the "no start" episodes. I'm guessing it does get spark. But it doesn't hurt to check.

2) After you shut it off, open the air filter box and stuff something in the throttle body opening that will soak up gas (like a piece of cloth, or some cotton balls, or something). Make sure the stuff is under the fuel injector. Wait 15 minutes (don't start the engine, and don't touch the throttle), then pull the rag/cotton/whatever out, and check to see if it's wet with gas. If it is, then your fuel injector is leaking, and that's what is flooding the engine.

Best of luck!
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MrRich
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Report this Post12-03-2013 08:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MrRichSend a Private Message to MrRichEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I did check the spark and it gets it.
I put a new ground from the "Brick" to the engine.
Since it does reeks of gas when I try a restart, I'm going to test the injector for leakage.
Oh, just noticed, on a fresh cold start, it fires up and idles for about 3 mins and then the "check engine" light comes on, therefore it's time to check the codes.

MrRich
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MrRich
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Report this Post12-04-2013 12:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MrRichSend a Private Message to MrRichEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm getting codes 42 Electronic spark timing and 15 Coolant sensor.
I have all new parts in the ignition as stated previously.
I even installed another injector. It runs smooth at first start but still will not fire up 15 mins or so after it's been sitting. It will fire up after about an hour.
Any suggestions?

Thank you
MrRich
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jaskispyder
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Report this Post12-04-2013 01:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Check the coolant temp sensor (located on the thermostat housing neck, I think)

put an meter across the terminals.

210* F = 185 ohms
160*F = 450 ohms
100*F = 1,800
70*F = 3,400
40*F = 7,500
20*F = 13,500
0*F = 25,000

http://www.fierofocus.com/T...20Sensor%20_CTS_.pdf

[This message has been edited by jaskispyder (edited 12-04-2013).]

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theogre
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Report this Post12-04-2013 01:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Pull you console for more air to get at ECM.
If that helps, replace dieing ECM.

See my Cave, ECM Heat

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(Jurassic Park)


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MrRich
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Report this Post12-05-2013 04:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MrRichSend a Private Message to MrRichEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I pulled the "Birck" and had the "New Ignition Control Module" tested at Advanced Auto and it failed the testing (3 times)!!!
As soon as the new one comes in I will have it tested before installing it.
I will post the results as soon as the replacement Brick is reinstalled.
All the input on this Fiero issue has been very helpful.

Thank you
MrRich
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theogre
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Report this Post12-05-2013 07:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by MrRich:
I pulled the "Birck" and had the "New Ignition Control Module" tested at Advanced Auto and it failed the testing (3 times)!!

Missing shield on this version will cause problem... If missing, find/make another.
See my Cave, DIS Ignition
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MrRich
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Report this Post12-10-2013 05:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MrRichSend a Private Message to MrRichEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Wrapping up the ignition problem, I hope!
The NEW ICM that I had purchased in the beginning of this mess was bad.
Had it checked out at Advanced Auto and it failed.
The company I bought it from replaced it, no charge, checked it before installation, it passed, sweet!
Installed it, ran it, let it sit for 15 or so minutes, it started, drove it 12 miles, parked it, started it 15 mins later and she fired up!
Time to move on to other issues...
Thanks to all that contributed to the solution.
MrRich out.
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