I am an amateur and my painting is coming up with inconsistent results. So how do you adjust the gun?
I read an article that had the following ideas:
It recommended removing small regulator at the gun and use the one on the wall.
It also suggested volume control be set at maximum flow and use air pressure adjustment to get correct pattern?
The paint spec sheet talks about the recommended air pressure. When adjusting the gun should you adjust the air pressure to get the right pattern and not be concerned if you exceed the recommended air pressure?
What is you recommend gun setup procedure?
Thanks
------------------ 88 GT 5 Speed Black with gray interior 3800 SCII Swap. Paint in Progress
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Spray pattern is at the tip. Did you get any extra tips or is it an adjustible tip. Most likley you need to adjust the air pressure to the recomended setting. Look for the knob or knobs, at the pressure gauge. Use caution, you don't want to exceed the pressure rateing for the spray gun (adjust prior to connecting your spray gun). If you dont have an adjustible pressure gauge, then your going to want to buy one.Yea, it can be attached just about anywhere,even the wall.
The gun is DeVilbiss StartingLine HVLP. It has a 1.8 tip for primer and a 1.3 tip for top coat. I am using the 1.3 for base and clear.
I have a pressure regulator and gauge on the wall and added another small regulator at the gun with a small gauge. The question is should I remove the one at the gun and just use the bigger regulator?
First off, the gauge at the gun is so you can get the exact pressure adjustment. You should fill up the air tank, pull the trigger to the air-only position, and then adjust the pressure at the gun. The hose causes a pressure drop so what you see at the wall gauge will not be the same at the handle of the gun.
What is the issue that you are having?......runs, fisheyes, splatter? Edit....I just re-read your post. The 1.3 tip will NOT accomodate clearcoat or single stage VOC basecoat. You have to use a larger tip with the clearcoat.
[This message has been edited by IMSA GT (edited 11-24-2013).]
I personally like having a regulator on the gun because I don't have to go to the wall to check pressure. You'll want a filter on the wall to catch the condensation , not on the gun because your gun will drip water on your paint job when it gets full. I have a similar gun.. Devil bliss 2000 and a sata lm2000, you should have three knobs on it? Where as my sata only has two. Keep the one that controls the pull for the trigger at full release, full on for paint from the hopper, and adjust the lower or side one for air mix.
Just play with it until you get a nice spray pattern. Tighter spots like scoops require you tighten the pattern.. Etc.
If you do your clear, remember that you want to put down Alot of clear per coat. Almost enough to make it run, otherwise it will come out orange peeled.. Too much clear and you'll notice runs and cloudy spots. A nice tip is to add 5% thinner to the clear if your having orange peel issues.
It really depends on personal preference & technique. I like to use a regulator at the gun. Once you get the air pressure right, adjust the volume about midway & then adjust the pattern. Basically, the more volume you have the wider you can adjust the pattern. Just adjust it so that you get the paint to lay down as smooth as possible with out running. Always overlap the spray pattern 50%. HTH, ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
I too have regulators and gauges on each gun. If you dont count where the regulator is, most guns have a fluid adjustment that regulates HOW MUCH paint sprays out the tip, and an adjustment that makes the spray PATTERN go from a pinpoint round one to a fan / oval. To paint the body generally I open the fan as I spray to get the widest pattern and stop there...no further (most times it will be 1/4-1/2 turn counter clockwise. The pinpoint round one is good for getting back into small corners...but you also have to turn the air pressure down. For the fluid adjustment, I set it for the maximum amount because I can get a higher gloss. Most of my guns mean that I back out that adjusting knob till the trigger goes back as far as possible. If your not used to this, it can be easy to run. As far as the actual air pressure on the gauge, some of my guns use 30-40 pnds to spray. My best high end gun uses 7-9 pnds and makes no overspray...at least no more than a spray can. I can paint almost any standard size complete car with 1 quart of basecolor and 1 quart of clear. That gives me 2-3 full coats with that gun.
The problem seems to be that when the clear goes on it is has a lot of orange peel and it takes a lot or clear to get it smooth out and then it runs. I am using Deltron DC 4000 clear. The spec sheet does not address thinning. Can this clear be thinned and what thinner would you use? The spec sheet suggests a 1.3 to 1.5 tip. I am using a 1.3. Should I get a larger tip?
This is just kind of a general rule chart. Different paints can vary. I use a 1.7 tip for everything and my paint jobs come out like glass even before buffing.
Too little air pressure can also cause orange peel. The paint dont get fully atomized. You have to check with your specific brand of paint to find out what to thin it with. I use Finish 1 clear, and you can only add catalyst...not thinner at all. Every brand is different. Ask for info or a spec sheet where you bought your paint.
Without seeing your gun, does it have a recommended operating air pressure ? Is that what your using ? mix the clear according to the specs on the can or info sheet. Some clears will spray on orangepeely, but levels itself after it starts to dry. Make sure your not just trying to get it smooth spraying it when its like that. That would lead to you pouring on too much paint per coat and definately cause it too run. If you do everything as recommended and its still orangepeel when its almost dry, try turning the fluid control knob in until it does spray correctly. That will cut down on the amount of paint delivered to the tip for a given amount of air. The actual size of the tip really dont have that much to do with it. I can spray primer or paint just as well with about any tip size there is. That means I can spray primer, color and clear with 1.2 tip to a 2.2 tip with the same result provided the gun is adjusted correctly.
[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 11-25-2013).]
The problem seems to be that when the clear goes on it is has a lot of orange peel and it takes a lot or clear to get it smooth out and then it runs. I am using Deltron DC 4000 clear. The spec sheet does not address thinning. Can this clear be thinned and what thinner would you use? The spec sheet suggests a 1.3 to 1.5 tip. I am using a 1.3. Should I get a larger tip?
Thats the name of the game when it comes to clear. When you spray clear you need to run it extra wet, and also learning how to spray it in 3 progressively wetter coats takes time and practice.
We typically run bigger tips and more pressure so the clear runs less and you can throw more air through the cap, so the 1.3 is not helping you.
Using reducer with the clear is usually a good idea to get it wet enough to reduce orange peel, but it makes it easier to get runs.
Also note, if you add reducer (even if recommended by brand) it can affect the curing time. If you put too much reducer, it will lay wet longer and therefore also run easier.
Another question The spec sheet for the clear says 10 psi at the "air cap." I have a regulator/pressure gauge at the air input to the gun. How do you set the pressure at the air cap since you can't measure it there? I have been setting the air pressure to the gun at 10 psi. With the pressure drop through the gun is my air pressure at the air cap to low? Should I increase the pressure to the gun to compensate for pressure losses in the gun? I set the pressure by triggering (no print) the gun and adjusting the pressure.
Another question The spec sheet for the clear says 10 psi at the "air cap." I have a regulator/pressure gauge at the air input to the gun. How do you set the pressure at the air cap since you can't measure it there? I have been setting the air pressure to the gun at 10 psi. With the pressure drop through the gun is my air pressure at the air cap to low? Should I increase the pressure to the gun to compensate for pressure losses in the gun? I set the pressure by triggering (no print) the gun and adjusting the pressure.
That's your problem. You should be running about 30 psi at the gun. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
That totally depends on the gun. Lots of mine use 30+ pnds of air pressure. My expensive gun suggests a pressure of 7 pnds and a maximum of 10. More will blow out the cup or gun seals.
Also in relation to the orange peel, more air or less material have the same result. Either one usually will reduce the orange peel. So opening the regulator gives higher air pressure or closing the fluid tip reduces the material flow will both affect the orange peel. Another thing to consider is that urathane clear has a tendancy to orange peel all by itself. If you look at new cars....even high end like Mercedes, the reflections shows orange peel to some extent. So even factories, using precise sprayers and robots cant eliminate it.
Ive also 'cheated' a little adding even just a capful of reducer to my clear that specificly dont use it. I find on really hot summer days, it helps it flow better. Any more than that little bit doubles the drying time. Ive experimented with it so I know. Other clears may be different.
