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Clutch install by marchi1
Started on: 11-09-2013 08:07 AM
Replies: 8 (214 views)
Last post by: Blacktree on 11-10-2013 01:12 PM
marchi1
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Report this Post11-09-2013 08:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for marchi1Send a Private Message to marchi1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Alright so reworking a 2.5 with a 5 speed and the old clutch was nuked, as well as the flywheel. New items procured and went to install them, and as I tightened the bolts down to spec on the new pressure plate the tine started laying flat. Initial install showed that the throw-out bearing didn't seem to be making much contact (like none). Is it possible to adjust the arm, or is there something wrong with the clutch?

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Bloozberry
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Report this Post11-09-2013 10:19 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The fingers are supposed to lay flatter as the pressure plate is tightened to the flywheel. As for the throw out bearing, there is always some lash between the bearing and the fingers that must be taken up before contact is made. How did you move the clutch lever arm to determine that there wasn't enough throw to release the clutch?
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marchi1
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Report this Post11-09-2013 10:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for marchi1Send a Private Message to marchi1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It moved by hand. There was LOTS of open space between the throwout bearing and the pressure plate (about 3/4" of travel), then finally it resistance.
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Dodgerunner
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Report this Post11-09-2013 10:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for DodgerunnerClick Here to visit Dodgerunner's HomePageSend a Private Message to DodgerunnerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Sounds about normal to me also. The slave has a spring inside that keeps the piston in position so the play will be gone once all is installed. So as long as the slave still has travel you should be OK.
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Bloozberry
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Report this Post11-09-2013 10:29 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Remember that the hydraulic system normally takes up that slack so you never really notice it until you disconnect the slave cylinder. Make sure you have the right TO bearing, then make sure that there is enough travel left on the clutch arm to rotate another inch or so after it contacts the fingers, without interfering with anything.
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marchi1
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Report this Post11-09-2013 10:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for marchi1Send a Private Message to marchi1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks. I will try it today.....this has been the stopping point on getting the engine back in the car.
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olejoedad
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Report this Post11-09-2013 11:31 AM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Is the throwout arm cast iron or stamped steel?
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marchi1
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Report this Post11-09-2013 12:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for marchi1Send a Private Message to marchi1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Visible in pics...but it is cast.
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Blacktree
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Report this Post11-10-2013 01:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
What you described during your install is exactly how it's supposed to work. When you install the slave cylinder, it will take out the slack in the clutch release arm. And your clutch should work normally.
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