Better off finding that one 88 gt or formula it was a pain when i converted my 85 gt auto car. U would need to get the trans, pedals, ecm and prom, clutch hydraulice and make the cluth line all the way from the clutch master all the way to the slave alot of brake lines and couplings for it plus u need the flexible steel braided line axles i think they are the same u also have to wire the reverse light switch to the c500 connector when going into reverse. That i believe summons it up these are the things i had to do, ohhhh i forgot u need the shifter amd shifter cables also
More work than its worth in most cases, I'd rather go from a standard to an auto any day. good luck if you try going to the standard, you are going to need it and a lot of patience as well as luck.
Steve
------------------ Technology is great when it works, and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't
Remove automatic transmission, auto axles, flex plate, tranny cooler lines, plug trans cooler in radiator, disassemble center console. remove auto shifter/cable, remove TV cable, drop steering column remove ignition interlock, remove pedal assembly...
well I would have donor car next to it, and I wasnt really to worried about transmission removal as I would do it when engine out for small block conversion anyways. I was mostly wondering about the pedals and interior stuff, like for example is whatever mounts the pedals a bolt it setup that can be swapped or is that stuff part of the body/chassis that would require cutting/welding..... but I hadnt considered wiring and ecm and stuff. I think I agree with you guys, I'll just have to be patient to find the car I want
[This message has been edited by dgsmooth (edited 10-21-2013).]
Having done the auto to manual swap myself, I'd only recommend it if your car is modified so much that transferring the mods to another car would be harder than the gearbox swap.
I've done it twice. It's not a lot of fun. Everything is bolt-in, however. No welding required.
Lots of people remove the entire pedal assembly. I just removed the long pivot bolt, and let the automatic brake pedal and spacers drop out. The manual pedals (clutch and brake) and the appropriate washers and such can then be put in place and the bolt reinserted. (It's easier to reinstall the bolt from the left. I believe it removes to the right.) The hardest part (IMHO) of the whole thing is getting the clutch line in place, in the front. It has to be threaded through the frame rails and up through the rubber grommet into the front compartment. Removing the spare tire well is required, but not too difficult.
I've done it twice. It's not a lot of fun. Everything is bolt-in, however. No welding required.
Lots of people remove the entire pedal assembly. I just removed the long pivot bolt, and let the automatic brake pedal and spacers drop out. The manual pedals (clutch and brake) and the appropriate washers and such can then be put in place and the bolt reinserted. (It's easier to reinstall the bolt from the left. I believe it removes to the right.) The hardest part (IMHO) of the whole thing is getting the clutch line in place, in the front. It has to be threaded through the frame rails and up through the rubber grommet into the front compartment. Removing the spare tire well is required, but not too difficult.
I found that my 88GT's auto pedal assembly, while essentially the same as the manual setup, was missing the nuts welded to the frame to mount the clutch pedal bracket. So, while it is possible to fight the return spring while threading nuts on to the mounting bolts and getting the pivot bolt through, all while under the dash , it's easier to just have the 3 pedal assembly.
I agree that the clutch hydraulic line was a pain... I used the Fiero Store stainless one which has a strategic separable flex line at the front end which makes the install much easier... other than that, it follows right where the trans cooler lines were just removed to the back of the car, so that part was easy.
My car is rust free, it was an even bigger pain to remove the trans lines as I didn't want to damage them. Removing the spare tire tray is a must.
Originally posted by carbon: I found that my 88GT's auto pedal assembly, while essentially the same as the manual setup, was missing the nuts welded to the frame to mount the clutch pedal bracket. So, while it is possible to fight the return spring while threading nuts on to the mounting bolts and getting the pivot bolt through, all while under the dash , it's easier to just have the 3 pedal assembly. ...
Been a while since I did mine. I forgot about the separate bracket piece.
The first time I did this swap, I attempted to remove the bracket assembly from the firewall. There was a wire bundle that went across the top of the bracket that totally prevented me from moving it enough to remove it. It was to the point that I was afraid that I was going to cut through wires if I forced the issue any more.
Doing a manual to auto right now. Not bad going this way, i'm not planning on removing the clutch line, MC - just the pedel. I am swapping out manual brake pedal for auto. Not sure if I need to do anything in the colum, and I still have to do the wiring.
I'm in the process of doing this. I've actually gotten EVERYTHING done "except" actually swapping the transmission itself. That's because I moved to take a job and put my car in storage for a few years.
That said, I documented pretty much everything I did, so if you're interested, you can check out the pages here:
Just click on the dash warning images to navigate to the various pages.
I would say that most of it is documented in the transmission page (obviously) as well as the electrical page (for things like clutch safety start switch, cruise cut-off, etc). There's also some brief things mentioned in the cooling section (removing the cooling tubes, capping the open ports off in the radiator, etc).
Actually swapping the transmission is pretty straight-forward. I say that, but I haven't done it yet. It's all OEM parts though. I think your most difficult part though is actually finding a functional "Fiero" Getrag transmission. You may find yourself having to get one of the newer ones and just using an adaptor kit.
I did have a parts car which I specifically bought for that purpose. But I didn't swap piece by piece, I actually stripped the parts car completely, and then junked the rest that I didn't think I need. I ended up with only about 90% of the stuff I was supposed to keep, and ended up having to buy the rest at the junkyard or from the Fiero Store.
I asked a LOT of questions on here, and I more or less stated those items on my pages. Here's a couple of shots:
Wasn't it stated in a Fiero service bulletin to remove the clutch pedal return spring?
Ain't nobody got time to read all the Fiero TSBs...
quote
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:
I'm in the process of doing this. I've actually gotten EVERYTHING done "except" actually swapping the transmission itself. That's because I moved to take a job and put my car in storage for a few years.
When I put in the 5 speed shifter, I found it was really difficult to squeeze it past the plastic guide for the main harness that runs next to it on the passenger side, you have any trouble with that?
When I put in the 5 speed shifter, I found it was really difficult to squeeze it past the plastic guide for the main harness that runs next to it on the passenger side, you have any trouble with that?
Shoot, I can't really remember since it was a little over 2 years ago. Did you already get that part done? It probably needs to have some slack in it so that you can get the shifter assembly in. I don't recall it being too difficult, but I probably had to work it a little bit.
I found the HARDEST part, was getting the clutch pedal back in. Oh, maybe that's what you're talking about?
Yeah, when I was putting in the pedal assembly, the main wiring harness made it almost impossible to get back in. I think I ended up having to bend part of the tab where it connects to, and then bending it back after I made it past the harness. That's right, it was the little bolt hole tab that sticks out. I was able to bend it a little bit, and then once I got it past the harness, I was able to work it back over the bolt and then by tightening down the nut, it straightened out the tab.
Shoot, I can't really remember since it was a little over 2 years ago. Did you already get that part done? It probably needs to have some slack in it so that you can get the shifter assembly in. I don't recall it being too difficult, but I probably had to work it a little bit.
I found the HARDEST part, was getting the clutch pedal back in. Oh, maybe that's what you're talking about?
Yeah, when I was putting in the pedal assembly, the main wiring harness made it almost impossible to get back in. I think I ended up having to bend part of the tab where it connects to, and then bending it back after I made it past the harness. That's right, it was the little bolt hole tab that sticks out. I was able to bend it a little bit, and then once I got it past the harness, I was able to work it back over the bolt and then by tightening down the nut, it straightened out the tab.
Getting the pedal assemblies out and in, in my opinion, is the absolute worst part of the swap. I had someone who could maneuver under there do it for me. I could get on my back with the seat out and get my hands in, and then I couldn't move. And yes, it is the harness that makes the pedal assembly difficult.
But I was speaking of the shifter, there is a plastic runner for the harness there that made it really hard to get the shifter base over the studs to bolt down. I figured I was using stock parts that should just drop in so I must have something jammed/pinched that wasn't supposed to be, but I can't see it. It's in there, but it didn't feel good doing it.
Not sure if I need to do anything in the colum, and I still have to do the wiring.
Rob
There is an interlock cable that runs to the auto shifter that has the same function as the lever next to the key cylinder on a manual trans steering column... but you'll still have the lever if you don't swap columns, so what ever...
I just did this a few months ago. I had a donor car and swapped motor/transmission/wiring harness/ecm.....less headache. Now , I am wanting to do an engine upgrade......my wife wishes I would have never found this forum!!
Originally posted by fierosound: I took the dash and driver's seat out. THAT makes it a lot easier. If that's took much work, just take the seat out. Only takes 5 minutes.
You see, Mr. Sound, if that's your real name... I have naturally broad shoulders and have become somewhat of a fatty... and as such, fatties can take the seat out and still not be able to move in the footwell, under the dash.
I see what you're saying but at the time I was at someone else's place and didn't have anywhere to keep the dash as the car, undrivable, was going to be trailered back to my place. And I already had boxes of parts to be stuffed back in the car... as he was anxious for me to get my crap out of his garage.
I just did this a few months ago. I had a donor car and swapped motor/transmission/wiring harness/ecm.....less headache. Now , I am wanting to do an engine upgrade......my wife wishes I would have never found this forum!!
In my instance it wasn't too bad.
Yeah... my wife has made good friends with significant others of the Fiero owners that I have met, so she can't complain too much.
, it's easier to just have the 3 pedal assembly.
And yes, it is the harness that makes the pedal assembly difficult.
