Finally got Koni's, 85 GT (notchie) V6 4 speed at Car-X, they say there is a major problem with harmonic balancer grinding away the block, pan, seal, etc. They want $200 to replace.
The PO neither advertised nor even mentioned this, but the engine is very tight and strong for the indicated 140k. I also have an 85 SE V6. No comparison. This car is much stronger and uses no oil. I even wonder if it's a 2.8, although I haven't noticed any outward signs of a swap. The PO was not cheap in other areas either, just hurried. He said the car was used for long commutes. Given this history and no real sign that I can see of "grinding" could the oil be from, say, a failing oil pressure sender, sloppy oil change people (just a couple weeks ago, they also seem to have removed/lost a heatshield), or some other less dramatic problem?
There is oil on the bottom of the alternator and all around the crank, but when I checked the tightness of the filter at the oil express there was quite a bit of oil around the front side of the engine as well. Either it was the result of changing the filter or again, the oil pressure sender or tube. I happen to have the TFS stainless tube, plus the '88 sender and connector.
The compressor belt came off and got wrapped places it shouldn't be, but everyone agrees that was likely the result of the compressor bolts being loose. The other belt is new, lines up perfectly, and, since the pieces of the other belt were removed, no longer squeals on startup.
The ('new' Optima) battery had to be replaced recently, which is when the torn up compressor belt pieces were discovered and removed. Since then it appears to charge fine, but the radiator fan draws the volts down below twelve when idling.
The car has always missed at hot idle and has an exhaust leak, probably from the front manifold. This afternoon it actually stalled immediately after starting hot and ran rough for some seconds. I had just gotten gas, regular instead of the usual premium.
Now that it's all written out it looks like some more checking for the source of the oil should be done rather than spending $200 bucks to replace a harmonic balancer that looks fine to me. What do you think?
There is also oil on the outside left rear valve cover that somehow sprays from somewhere. Wipe it away, drive, there is more.
Also, what should the Koni's be set at? I drive very conservatively so I'm thinking full soft, especially the fronts, also because apparently that's the way they ship. Maybe full soft front, but one step firmer for the struts?
Isn't that the other end of the engine? Anyway, they did do the struts and shocks and tightened up the compressor without putting the belt on. I'm starting to think he's right about the harmonic balancer. I hear this whisk whisk sound I though was from the brakes on both cars, but it just might be the balancers. Anyway I ordered the balancer from TFS, only place I could find one, except some three hundred plus racing ones from Summit Racing.
After putting another few thousand miles on it I found time to take the car back for the harmonic balancer. They apparently used a hammer to remove and install the harmonic balancer, but at least it's done. There is a noticeable difference in where the balancer is relative to the block, even though it never seemed out of line with the belt, for instance.
They broke and repaired the alternator bracket and left me with a car that wasn't charging because the alternator plug had come out. I plugged it back in and wrapped aluminum tape around the alternator to keep it in.
There is no difference that I can tell other than how it looks. The air conditioner belt was replaced in this process, however, and since then the mileage has gone down.
I plan to send the balancer to Damper Doctor to be rebuilt, although it ended up in two pieces.
What I've learned is the harmonic balancer is meant to reduce wear on the engine, particularly the crankshaft. Each time the cylinder fires it pushes down on the crankshaft, causing a slight deflection. The harmonic balancer on the end of the crankshaft is designed to minimize this deflection. Without it the crankshaft can eventually break.
The Dorman unit sold by the Fierostore apparently has the right weight to do the job, but the timing mark is not in the right place. Dorman doesn't list a balancer for the 2.8.
ATI lists a three hundred plus dollar unit for the 2.8 Fiero, but so far as I can figure, you have to also buy 'mandrels' to match it to your pulleys. You might also need a hundred twenty dollar puller/installer kit they sell. It looks different to me.
BTW, the guts of a harmonic balancer is rubber and shouldn't be exposed to oil or gas.
I believe the distributor seal is bad, because there is oil on that side of the engine, but now I'm reluctant to remove the distributor because I don't have a timing mark to set the timing.
There was also a lot of oil coming from the valve cover oil filler cap. I replaced the gasket with a plumbing gasket from Menards that's almost the right size. It's hard to get on the first time and becomes loose over time, but it only costs a dollar. The TFS one didn't do anywhere near as well. The GT had oil on the top of the valve cover anytime the car was driven, until I replaced the gasket with the Menards popup valve gasket.
You can get a harmonic balancer for a 93-95 Camaro/Firebird 3.4 V6. It's the same balancer as the 2.8 but the timing mark is over at the 2 o'clock side rather than the Fiero's 10 o'clock side. You can Re-mark it with a hacksaw or have an automotive machine shop match cut the timing mark. Grinding in that area with resulting oil leak can be the result of a badly worn timing chain. It can flop against the inside of the timing chain cover and wear a hole in it. I once replaced a water pump, an alternator, an idler pulley and was about to replace the power steering pump on a GM 3.3 engine before I discovered that with the serpentine belt removed, I still had the grinding.
NAPA and Harbor Freight both sell a mechanic's stethoscope for under $10. It can help you pinpoint a noise like a scrape, tick, bearing squeal or an injector failing to fire, and do it very quickly and easily.
The balancer also is the "sealing" surface for the front crank seal - may have been one source of oil leaking! Before you send you old balancer off to be rebuilt - make sure there is no "groove" worn in the seal surface!
I believe what KATATAK is referring to is that Damper Doctor won't take balancers for rebuild if the sealing surface is grooved. He basically cleans them up and replaces the rubber between the two parts.
Oh. I do have the parts. I'll take a picture and post it this afternoon. I think mostly the problem was the rubber had failed and the outer weight was wandering towards the block. I still don't see how the other part could (or at least, had) moved without profoundly affecting the belts that are attached to it. They said this was going to be a huge problem, if I let it go, but three thousand miles later the only problem they mentioned had to do with breaking the alternator bracket. From what I understand that tends to happen anyway.
I'm trying to get off my butt and do some of these things, but I've put things off so long I've lost track of where things are, what I have, and even what I ordered. I'm sure I ordered and received an exhaust bolt, but now it won't show itself. From TFS there is a full set of studs and bolts, but they seem to have Torx heads. I have Torx bits, but no sockets. Either way it looks like I'll be spending time going to the store instead of getting it done...
